EK9 Racecar


Got the gearbox out!


Left the engine in the car on a few mounts and out it came, and it was evident that we had some issues.


What I thought might be the issue (the peg in the gearbox) wasn't, although I will take some material off it.

This is where it's catching on the box





@TheBooosh...! you are right mate, it is a bit silly that it catches, I'm going to call them tomorrow if I can, they're based in the states.

And now the engine turns perfectly :nice:

All comments welcome, sorry I may have been a bit short earlier. I had a bit of a panic on:lol:
 
Glad to hear it was an easy find and it was what you and @jesse888 talked about. I just find it frustrating that a 'reputable' company with great results have failed to resolve this issue, for me this would put me off ever buying any of their products. I would definitely speak to them to see why they would sell a product that doesn't fit correctly especially without stating that modifications would need to take place before hand. Because now not only has it cost you more time and more effort but sudden panic and despair which is really annoying!

So whats the next step? are you going to take a grinder to your box?

Ben
 
Took the box to work to take some material off.
It's looks like where it was rubbing was a high point on the pressure plate possibly a manufacturing defect.

So I took a tiny amount off the the pressure plate too.

Painted the scratches so if it rubs again I'll be able to see clearly where.





 
Want expecting it to be catching there, that is strange.
If I was you I'd get the box back in and check the clutch works straight away. Incase they've sent you a k20 clutch, Nicole had this issue and it bolted right up to a b flywheel but wouldn't disengage because the k20 one has too much travel. You'll know straight away by playing with the clutch fork.
 
Want expecting it to be catching there, that is strange.
If I was you I'd get the box back in and check the clutch works straight away. Incase they've sent you a k20 clutch, Nicole had this issue and it bolted right up to a b flywheel but wouldn't disengage because the k20 one has too much travel. You'll know straight away by playing with the clutch fork.
Yeh it is odd, I will mate thanks for the heads up, will get it in and check the clutch.
If it's a k20 clutch I'll be ramming it up some yanks Arse! Sideways!
 
Nicoles was an action clutch aswell I believe. They are two for two on this forum atm lol
 
We'll see, I do hope it's the right one. :nerv:
 
I think it is a B clutch but I'd definitely check it just incase.
 
Got the gearbox back in and we have no interference :dance:
So taking a bit of material off worked.

I put the slave cylinder on and quick drip bleed. And we have a clutch! Feels pretty good.
I put the offise side driveshaft in, put her in gear and looked down the nearside driveshaft hole and rotated the crank and I saw movement! Then took her out of gear and no movement.
From that I'd say that the clutch is engaging and fully dis-engaging?

So it is the correct clutch by the looks of it, what do you guys think?
I'm really happy I've resolved the issue of the interference.
I'll get the nearside shaft in tomorrow.
But from what I've seen in the hole where the n/s shaft comes out I'd say we're OK?

:blinx:
 
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N/s driveshaft back in, engine all timed.
Starting to come to together, hopefully the clutch is alright, feels fine and seems to dis-engage. If it's no good it's only a clutch change at the end of the day.



Exhaust manifold is on too.

I'm glad the engine is all sealed up now,
Ooo when I was timing the engine, to get is spot on I see there must be a timing pin kit for the camshafts. I used some drill chuck keys as they were perfect :lol:
Would be nice to have the correct kit though, anyone seen one before?















Turbo on next, and lots of plumbing to sort out.
 
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Great progress, and super fresh, you'll be running it in in no time at this rate!
 
Hopefully mate, would like to be on the road for end of September, but we'll see. There's no deadline.
 
The temptation to bring this to the ring is going to be too much I think!
 
Managed to get out in the garage for a couple of hours thisafternoon!

Got the turbo mounted up with a couple of nuts so I could line up the oil feed and return pipes.

Got a bit carried away and mocked up the charge pipes :))



Think I'll have to put some heat wrap on the downpipe, as I'd imagine you'll get a bit of soak into the intercooler pipes and radiator if you don't.

























Will get the turbo off tomorrow to torque up the compressor housing bolts and lock the tabs.
 
Got the turbo lined up, so nipped up the housings, will take to work and torque the bolts up tomorrow.

Also the nearside boost pipe is a tad long, I geuss they want you to mount the intercooler further forward!
I'm going to cut a 3-4cm out of it and weld it back together to get an nice 90degree angle.
You can probably see what I mean in the pictures I posted yesterday....

Had a little look at the oil filter set up, I want to remove the stock oil cooler, so need to put a spacer in for the Mocal thermo plate.
But it would appear that the stock bolt is too long.





Can you see what I mean?

I've seen threads about people using 22mm washers etc. But even if you did that you'd have problems with putting the next plate on.
Is there a shorter bolt pictured you can buy?
 
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