Help! B16a Big End / Rod Bearing Failure


sham_w

Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2014
Messages
46
Car(s)
DC2 Track Car
Hi guys, looking for a bit of advise to avoid bottom end bearing failue (rod knock). I have lost 2 engines this year due to this!
I am using oem crank case breathing. Would a proper breathing setup with a catch can help?
Oil Cooler?

B16a DC2 track car,
Engine Spec:

· B16A Block
· ‘96 B18C Type R Head
· Supertech Valve Stem Seals
· Supertech Valve Springs
· Blox Titanium Retainers
· ‘99 B16B Type R Cams
· Brian Crower Adjustable Cam Pulleys
· 81.5mm Nippon High Compression Pistons
· ACL Race Bearings + Thrust Washers
· B16A Crank + Conrods
· Honda Oil Pump
· Baffled Sump
· P73 B18C Type R Intake Manifold + Fuel Rail + Injectors
· Skunk2 68mm Throttle Body
· New Blox 76mm Velocity stack Filter + Intake Arm
· PLM Big Tube Tri-Y Exhaust Manifold
· Full Kakimoto N1 Red Stamp 2.5” Exhaust
· New Full Size Alloy Rad and New Fan
Mapped at 173 Wheel HP on Crome ECU
 
are you rebuilding these engines or buying 2nd hand ones each time?
 
are you rebuilding these engines or buying 2nd hand ones each time?
First one i bought second hand and took a chance on it!
Second engine was rebuilt by previous owner 5K miles before i got it.
 
you got an oil preasure gauge? im wondering if your getting oil starvation on track when cornering.
 
you got an oil preasure gauge? im wondering if your getting oil starvation on track when cornering.
I don't have but i'll install a wet gauge with the next engine.
Both times it has happened is coming out of a tight corner after heavy breaking. Once i get back on power turning in it rattled
 
sounds like the oil is moving away from the pickup, you are using the correct sump for the b16a? they are different which could cause a problem like this
 
sounds like the oil is moving away from the pickup, you are using the correct sump for the b16a? they are different which could cause a problem like this
It's looking that way alright. I'm using a standard b16a sump and a weld in baffle plate. My first engine didn't have the baffle so i put it down to that but the new engine did and still happened! Pretty frustrating
 
yeah i can imagine it would be pretty annoying.
you sure youve fitted baffles correctly? oil level correct?
not using too thin of an oil?
 
yeah i can imagine it would be pretty annoying.
you sure youve fitted baffles correctly? oil level correct?
not using too thin of an oil?
Ya the baffle is good and oil level is always at the top mark one the dipstick. Just using good brand 10w 40 so maybe a better grade oil for race engines would be no harm!
Is it unheard of to modify the sump to carry a larger capacity of oil in the engine?
 
everything your saying appears to be fine, oil cooler on the engine? perhaps its just getting too hot for the grade you have in it.
obviously your not using the same oil pump on each engine? maybe worth taking apart an old one and see if its damaged, could lead to an answer.

when i was building my engine i reused the cylinder head without cleaning it properly after melting a piston.
the particals stuck in the head would sent through the oil pump, destroying that and then my oil pressure. i had a gauge so i caught it everytime(total of 2 rebuilds)
 
everything your saying appears to be fine, oil cooler on the engine? perhaps its just getting too hot for the grade you have in it.
obviously your not using the same oil pump on each engine? maybe worth taking apart an old one and see if its damaged, could lead to an answer.

when i was building my engine i reused the cylinder head without cleaning it properly after melting a piston.
the particals stuck in the head would sent through the oil pump, destroying that and then my oil pressure. i had a gauge so i caught it everytime(total of 2 rebuilds)
Oil cooler is definitely something to look into.. I had different oil pumps on each engine (both honda). I'll check the old pump although its probably full of bearings filings by now.
I had the head cleaned thoroughly. I'll rebuild it to the best standard possible and add oil pressure, oil temp gauges and an oil cooler if needed.
Thanks for you help man!!
 
sorry i couldnt help any more really, strange goings on it seems
 
Nice to know someone else having as sh!t luck as me 2 engines in lol. Good luck mate hope you get it sorted! Gauges are a must
 
A lot of people put the oil level 5-10mm above the max mark to help with oil starvation, myself included

Also it would be worth using a proper Ester fully synthetic race oil in the car... with no oil cooler my old b16b ek9 got up over 130 degrees on track... that temperature is far too much for a regular oil
 
A lot of people put the oil level 5-10mm above the max mark to help with oil starvation, myself included

Also it would be worth using a proper Ester fully synthetic race oil in the car... with no oil cooler my old b16b ek9 got up over 130 degrees on track... that temperature is far too much for a regular oil
Better oil is definitely on my list from now on!
Do you run an oil cooler now? if so.. do you see an advantage?
 
Nice to know someone else having as sh!t luck as me 2 engines in lol. Good luck mate hope you get it sorted! Gauges are a must
Its hardship man!! We're not alone, last trackday i did there was at least 2 other b-series rattled
 
Better oil is definitely on my list from now on!
Do you run an oil cooler now? if so.. do you see an advantage?


I did have an oil cooler as it came with my DC2 and the oil temps didn’t go much above 110

I now run without and oil cooler in favour of possibly better oil pressure but use an ester synthetic race oil and over fill
 
A lot of people put the oil level 5-10mm above the max mark to help with oil starvation, myself included

Also it would be worth using a proper Ester fully synthetic race oil in the car... with no oil cooler my old b16b ek9 got up over 130 degrees on track... that temperature is far too much for a regular oil
I also overfill slightly for the same reasons.
Looks like everyone has covered most things I’d say!
If you do run an oil cooler, keep the oem factory oil cooler/heater.
 
I did have an oil cooler as it came with my DC2 and the oil temps didn’t go much above 110

I now run without and oil cooler in favour of possibly better oil pressure but use an ester synthetic race oil and over fill
Estersynthetic race oil it is then.. cheers dude
 
I also overfill slightly for the same reasons.
Looks like everyone has covered most things I’d say!
If you do run an oil cooler, keep the oem factory oil cooler/heater.
When I'm up and running again with oil pressure and temp gauges fitted, I think I'll monitor them and make the call on an oil cooler then if needed. Thanks for the help men!!
 
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