replacing oil pan gasket b16a


mick218

mick218

JDM Ek4 Hatch
Joined
Oct 19, 2008
Messages
411
is it simple job to do? do i need to remove any exhaust pipes or any other parts to drop out the pan? thanks
 
Moved to correct forum.

The Honda B16 engine, commonly found in the Honda Civic Si, requires an engine hoist when you need to change the oil pan gasket. The reason for the engine hoist is to lift the engine so the transmission cross member can be removed. Without doing so, the oil pan will not drop far enough to clear the oil pickup tube. With the engine lifted, the job of changing the gasket becomes much easier.

Difficulty: Moderate


  • Things You'll Need:
  • Honda Civic B16
  • Front end ramps
  • Wheel chuck
  • 16-mm socket
  • Engine hoist
  • Wrench
  • Drain pan


  • Drive the vehicle onto a set of front end ramps to allow room under the Honda to maneuver. Set the parking brake, and place a wheel chuck behind each rear tire. (Since an engine hoist is used during the process of replacing the oil pan gasket, it is important that the vehicle is secured on the ramps.)
  • Loosen the transmission cross member bolts with a 16-mm socket. There are two bolts on each end of the cross member.
  • Connect the chains of an engine hoist to the Civic’s engine and create enough tension on the chains to slightly lift the engine upward. You need enough lift to loosen pressure on the transmission cross member.
  • Slide the transmission cross member toward the rear of the car to allow access to the oil pan.
  • Drain the oil from the oil pan by removing the drain plug located in the bottom of the pan. With the oil drained, place the plug back into the pan.
  • Remove the bolts that secure the oil pan to the engine block.
  • Pull the oil pan downward and slide it backward to clear the oil pickup tube.
  • Scrape the old gasket off the mating surfaces of the oil pan and the engine block.
  • Place the new filter onto the mating surface of the oil pan and place the oil pan against the engine block.
  • Place screws in the four corners of the oil pan to secure it into place. Thumb tighten the bolts--do not tighten them with a wrench.
  • Place the remaining bolts into the oil pan with your fingers. Do not tighten them with a wrench.
  • Tighten the center bolts with a wrench. Move outward in an alternating pattern and tighten the bolts with the wrench.
  • Slide the transmission cross member back into place, and line up the bolt holes in the cross member and the frame. Secure the cross member with the bolts.
  • Relieve the pressure on the engine hoist to return the engine to its normal position.
Click to expand...
 
can anyone one clear this up abit? i just got a new gasket for mine and it looks a easy job but reading that about lifting the engine has got me thinking its not as easy as it looks...

cheers
 
anyone done this job on there car?? needing abit of help before i tackle it...

thanks
 
I put a new sump gasket on my car yesterday and its very straight forward.

I don't have a clue why the post that rvm made states that you need to lift the engine etc with a hoist as thats a load of crap.


The proceedure is basically as follows.

- Drain all of the engine oil
- Remove exhaust manifold or just the downpipe if you have a 2 piece manifold
-remove the plate that covers the shallow end of the sump and bolts to the gearbox (this is a flywheel cover / support brace)
- Remove left hand side plastic splash guard
-Undo all of the 10mm bolts from the sump
- pop the sump off.
-remove the old gasket and any left over gasket or sealer from the sump
- clean surface
- I always apply a small bead of VHT sealant to the sump itself
- apply gasket
- offer sump up to block the re-fit all the 10mm bolts by hand
- when tightening the sump bolts start in the middle and work your way out

**These bolts only need a very small amount of force to tighten or you will easily split the gasket and it will leak. Tighten very gently until you see the gasket just starting to bulge out and then stop** I think the torque setting is around 7 ft lbs but I do it by feel

- Then put everything back the same way and fill the sump. Run engine and check for leaks
 
^^^^ spot on there. dont know what the transmission cross member in the other post is though, maybe there is a difference in the models around the world?
 
spek9.. great info mate thanks for the help, will go get it done today after reading that!

cheers!! :nice:
 
elchunk said:
^^^^ spot on there. dont know what the transmission cross member in the other post is though, maybe there is a difference in the models around the world?
Click to expand...

non type R models have a thin metal flywheel guard fitted, however the type R models have a substantial brace that braces the block / gearbox together

i've found that gasket sealant is a pain in the arse for sump gaskets and they are best fitted dry! dreading doing this job tomorrow as i have to remove the h-brace and other parts, urrgggghhhhhhh
 
stevenEK9 said:
non type R models have a thin metal flywheel guard fitted, however the type R models have a substantial brace that braces the block / gearbox together

i've found that gasket sealant is a pain in the arse for sump gaskets and they are best fitted dry! dreading doing this job tomorrow as i have to remove the h-brace and other parts, urrgggghhhhhhh
Click to expand...


The sealant isnt necessary but i use it on the sump side just to make sure it seals properly. Do you mean its a pain in the arse to remove, as its obviously not a pain to apply?

How come you changing your gasket again
 
it's a pain in the arse job becuase you have to remove so much stuff to get to it - on my car i need to remove the H brace to get the header off - to get to one of the h-brace bolts i need to remove the temp sensor from the sump, haha

i used sealant when i built the engine, it never sealed - fitted a new one dry yesterday and sealed a treat. took it for a blast out the road yesterday and all perfect (140 miles to a tank of fuel, safe to say it got a "proper" test) haha
 
944707_10151517372290369_116977063_n.jpg


So what cross member is in the way? Just got done changing mine, with out a hoist.....just remove exhaust manifold and flywheel cover.
 
anyone recommend any place to buy a sump gasket?
would a Genuine Honda make a difference to aftermarket stuff?
 
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