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Block: b20b Head: ported b18c6 Cams: obx stage 2 (0-0) Valves: b18c6 Springs: supertech 70lbs Retainers: chromoly steel Pistons: ycp b16a 84.5mm Rods: b20b Crank: b20b Injectors: h22a7 290cc Extra cam breathers: yes Extra block breathers: yes Headgasket: oem b20b 84mm Intake manifold: ported...

Now im worried abt the shavings from break-in :-(

I wish id known that earlier, id have to just chance it bcos my budget is stretched now...how long do they last for street cars similar b20 builds? I will be getting a full balance to so should help.

Yeah, iv got two sets of red plastigauges through post today and have ordered king main and rod bearings from america so while i wait i better get onto portpolishing and balancing combustion chambers and plastigauge the cam/caps because iv a couple of b16 donors. Thanks for your help rich7777, i...

im an MOT tester and from your lambda reading it indicates its running lean, this doesn't mean that the engine is running lean because from your cylinder head to the tip of the exhaust you could have a slight leak where its sucking in air (youd think it will blow air out from the leak) and...

finally I think I have gotten somewhere with this bearing malarkey... Main Bearings- the LETTER codes stamped on the b20 block are as follows (t/belt to flywheel): C D C C D now the corresponding NUMBER codes on the crank are (t/belt to flywheel): 2 2 3 2 2 which equals GREEN BROWN...

Im located in lancashire btw.. Yeah iv ordered a couple of plastigauge sets and will check with existing bearings and if im in the middle kind of range il get some acls and recheck..iv got pics of crank codes but you wont be able to read it and i dont knw how to put pics up because im using a...

I have taken pictures of my cranks and cant decipher the codes (my head is spinning and very tired), this is becoming a nightmare build, aaarrrrggggg!!! I will try and put them on with my fone later on.. thanks for your info rich7777 but do you know any place where I can take the things and get...

This link asks me for a google sign in for some reason... Anyway, i place the bearings (top and bottom) in position with or without grease and place a strip inbetween the bearings and journals and torque down to spec, Then remove and match with the strip indicator right? How do i kniw what...

Iv seen some platigauges on ebay but which do i need, green, blue, red? And grease? Does that come with it or something?

Please someone, im sure your not all far away

*i havent seen it being done

Yes i will be doing, but i dont knw how to use it and have seen it being done aswell thats why im stuck..i need somebody with me to help me otherwise im gonna have to mix match bearings with different caps crank etc, and i really dont wanto do that

Im stuck on my rebuild, i cant accuratley measure the crank journals and havent got a clue in how to spec them up for either crank (b18c or b20). Im located in the bb9 area if anybody is up for helping me, i am stretched with my budget on this build but can pay you for your expenses if...

Il need my b20 remappint soon, where is henry located, whats the company name and does he dyno tune?

Btw i did buy aluminium as it was from a proper metal supplier.

I cant afford to let anybody else build it and iv built a few honda engines and iv learnt something new each time Iv got me verniers, stretch gauges, torque wrenches, dti, timing discs etc on hand and all torque settings/sequences for every fastener involved in the build... I cant wait to have...

I think that a 2.0+ high compression race track n/a engine built for top end revs would benefit and nothing more other than forced induction. The geometry says it all.

No.

It will be block guarded properley (installed and then cylinders re-bored), girdled and balanced, i am thinking too much about it because i want reliability, iv had enough of stripping/rebuilding and havent really the time anymore.