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Ya I do....

I don't touch the gas pedal when starting up the car. As for the clutch pedal, I tried starting with and without clutching in and the 'issue' happens regardless of the clutch pedal position. Anyway, as what you'd mentioned, it hasn't caused me any problem except some sleepless nights.

Hey there Of late, my JDM EK4 has developed a minor but disturbing issue when starting up. It'll crank once before pausing for a split second before cranking again and then firing up. The strange thing is, this doesn't happen all the time but only intermittently. I've checked the battery...

Car: JDM EK4 Civic Ferio Mileage on engine: More than 215,000km Engine specs: JDM B16A4 engine JDM ITR airbox with K&N cone air filter JDM ITR 62mm throttle body (bored to 63mm on the inlet side) JDM ITR intake manifold JDM EK9 camshafts JDM EK9 valvesprings JDM EK9 81mm pistons Toda cam gears...

Sidetracking...I've always have the impression that RON 97 is the highest in M'sia. Mind telling me which petrol is RON 98?

The '11' in BKR7E-11 means the plugs have been pre-gapped at 1.1mm at the factory. However, I would prefer to double check the gap myself. Personally, I've had good results with 0.95mm.

1. It depends on your set-up. 2. Yes, it bolts right on. 3. Identical diameter. 4. I'm not sure of the Buddy Club B-piping 5. It should clear.

I dynoed my stock car on a Dynojet a few years ago and i remembered it put out around 150bhp. Can't remember the torque though... I personally don't give a damn to dyno figures. It's only that my tuner wants to be thorough with his tuning on my Unichip and thus insisted on a dyno tune...

Just remap the Unichip on my EK4 recently and got the results as attached. Power and torque outputs are 198bhp and 179Nm at the crank. Engine is standard B16A with the exception of EK9 cams, valve springs and pistons. Intake has been changed to DC2 setup (with throttle body bored to 64mm)...

No, the B16A manifold (whether stock or Spoon) will not fit your B16B as your block is 7mm taller than the B16A block.

Incorrect. If you are fitting the standard-bore (81mm) EK9 pistons into your B16A, you do not need to bore your engine block. Just need to machine your stock B16A conrods slightly to fit the pistons. Valvesprings and retainers are not a must if you are keeping with the stock redline, but they...

The only difference between the ITR and CTR camshafts is in the intake cam where it has 2 (or is it 3 degree more) in terms of duration. The ITR exhaust camshaft is exactly the same as the CTR exhaust camshaft.

For sure. No doubt the characteristic VTEC mid-range dip is still there, it's better than stock.

Not at all. I've the EK9 cams, pistons and valvesprings in my 214,000km-old motor for more than 7 years and it's still running strong (dyno-ed at nearly 200bhp and 180Nm (nearly 133 lb/ft) just earlier this month).

You are partially right. The EK9 pistons is not a direct 'swap' with the standard B16A pistons. To make the EK9 pistons fit onto the standard B16A conrods, the end where the pistons fit onto has to be machined slightly (1mm on either side, if I didn't remember wrongly). Nothing needs to be done...

The gains are not going to be much, unless you couple the cams with the EK9 pistons. This will bump your compression ratio up to around 11.6:1, a much more useful environment for the EK9 cams to work in.

That's like a stock B16A's peak torque output. My 180Nm (almost 133lbs/ft) was achieved at 6372rpm.

Haha I like it!

So 130lb ft on a NA B16A is not unattainable... I guess i can finally sleep easy. Damn I wish I have 240lb ft... but then my current fuel economy of 14 km per litre (39.5 mpg) would be sorely missed

Well, I have more than bolt-ons for my B16A. Inside, it has the EK9 cams, valvesprings and pistons. On the outside, it has the DC2R airbox (housing a K&N filter), throttle body (bored to 64mm), intake manifold on the intake side, while the exhaust side has the HKS 4-2-1 exhaust manifold, stock...