B16b Engine rebuild - advice

denward

ex '00 Silver ek9 Rx
Joined
Feb 24, 2007
Messages
893
Hi All

I’m looking at rebuilding my engine in the winter and am looking for some advice.

rather than simply changing gaskets, seals, belt, pumps etc, I’m considering doing some upgrades.

I’m not looking for super power and trying to keep it some what original so I’m not looking to go K even though it seems more bang for buck. I’d also like to keep my original stamps and it looks like the price of b18cs are on the rise, as with the rest of the old Honda gear.

I’m considering flipping out the crank with a b18crank, rods and pistons. Looks like OEM can still be bought from amayama?

Has anyone done this and has some advice or recommendations ?

Also, re pistons, could I use either the b16b or b18c pistons and what are the pros / cons ?

Then re ecu, how would the standard one work or best to go for an aftermarket with simple map ?

ive done plenty but struggling to find the right current advice.

Thanks all
D
 

danbo2002

Active Member
Joined
Aug 15, 2008
Messages
295
Pistons, your right, both the PCT and P73's can be used. The PCT's will give you more compression but less valve to piston clearance, so if your planning big cams you might have clearance issues. The P73's have a better dome design for high compresion engines and they are lighter than the PCT's.

If you go the B18c crank and P73 piston route you could use a standard B18c ECU, but if you want to pull the most performance out of it or any setup for that matter I'd opt for a programmable ECU and a custom map from one of the good Honda tuners

Another upside of the programmable ECU is the ability to set the Vtec engagement point and RPM limit to suit. Shift light, launch control and full throttle shifting are other available options.
With the latest version of the Hondata S300 you can connect to it through Bluetooth, it's really handy, download the app onto your phone that way you can see all the live data on the app in real time, really handy tool for fault finding
 
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Kipper

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 27, 2008
Messages
2,158
+2 on re-mapping. I had my stock B18C re-mapped with usual breathing mods and 12bhp was pulled from it. The stock ECU's run real rich in VTEC and the 4k VTEC was a real benefit. I got mine mapped on crome just.

My friends B16A with Type R cam's, IM and similar breathing mods made 28bhp/c.30ftlbs less with the map, the stroker is worth while imo!
 

JohnTurbo

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2013
Messages
942
It takes breathing mods and remap to get the stock power out of a B16B. They're More like 175-180bhp standard.
As above there is a bit to be had from a B18C normally.

I've had 2 standard B16B engines in good health on accurate dynos FYI.

The B18C crank is a good move. When racing a B16B with a B18 crank was rincing everybody in the 1.6 class. (That's my suspicion - it was certainly illegal anyway as a B16B/B18C block had never been used in an EF chassis. I'd not have beaten him anyway so didn't make a fuss.

You'd need to rebore it 0.25mm oversize to remove the lip.

I built a B18C with PCT (Nippon) pistons, 0.5mm overbore and that cleared 'big' Toda C cams. 221BHP on that same accurate dyno and a load more torque. I bet it was bloody close to interfering on vtec mind!

John
 

R1PPU

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2011
Messages
2,207
Regarding pistons and rods, for the hassle and cost you might as well just get some forged stuff. For not much over 1k you can get new wiseco pistons and skunk 2 alpha rods where you can pick the compression ratio too.

The OEM ones are a pain to get the wrist pin seated correctly.

ECU wise - got a Hondata S300v3 in mine and its excellent, super user friendly.
 

denward

ex '00 Silver ek9 Rx
Joined
Feb 24, 2007
Messages
893
It takes breathing mods and remap to get the stock power out of a B16B. They're More like 175-180bhp standard.
As above there is a bit to be had from a B18C normally.

I've had 2 standard B16B engines in good health on accurate dynos FYI.

The B18C crank is a good move. When racing a B16B with a B18 crank was rincing everybody in the 1.6 class. (That's my suspicion - it was certainly illegal anyway as a B16B/B18C block had never been used in an EF chassis. I'd not have beaten him anyway so didn't make a fuss.

You'd need to rebore it 0.25mm oversize to remove the lip.

I built a B18C with PCT (Nippon) pistons, 0.5mm overbore and that cleared 'big' Toda C cams. 221BHP on that same accurate dyno and a load more torque. I bet it was bloody close to interfering on vtec mind!

John
Thanks for that. So ill need to bore the block an additional .25mm ? Then this will suit the
It takes breathing mods and remap to get the stock power out of a B16B. They're More like 175-180bhp standard.
As above there is a bit to be had from a B18C normally.

I've had 2 standard B16B engines in good health on accurate dynos FYI.

The B18C crank is a good move. When racing a B16B with a B18 crank was rincing everybody in the 1.6 class. (That's my suspicion - it was certainly illegal anyway as a B16B/B18C block had never been used in an EF chassis. I'd not have beaten him anyway so didn't make a fuss.

You'd need to rebore it 0.25mm oversize to remove the lip.

I built a B18C with PCT (Nippon) pistons, 0.5mm overbore and that cleared 'big' Toda C cams. 221BHP on that same accurate dyno and a load more torque. I bet it was bloody close to interfering on vtec mind!

John
thanks john

so I’ll need to bore the block an additional .25mm to fit the oversize ITR pistons (81.25mm ones)?
How about rods ? Presume it needs to be the ITR ones?

anything outside of ecu I’d need to consider ?

Even in time I wouldn’t expect to be going aggressive with cams
 

JohnTurbo

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2013
Messages
942
By the time you fit ITR pistons and rods its only the stamping that differs from a 98 spec B18C.

I'd say the 0.25mm rebore is essential. YOu could go to 0.5mm if the pistons were more vailable in that size, but 0.25mm is preferable.
 

denward

ex '00 Silver ek9 Rx
Joined
Feb 24, 2007
Messages
893
Hi all

Does anyone know anything about the eagle stroker kits/ crank and rods re quality etc?

I’m finding it hard to get a 18c crank locally and many used ones will need machining and I’ve been advised against it

I was wrong re the OEM b18 cranks still for same.

Thanks
 
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