B19

Yazza54

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For some reason I can't get the idea out of my head of getting a B20 block, some nice forged pistons and my B18C6 type R internals, head etc to make a B19.

I know there have been mixed findings with B20 reliability, particularly the sleeves however if I understand rightly this is more of an issue when boosting them. I've read there's plenty of people out there revving the **** out of N/A B20s without any problems, and this would have a slightly safer rod/stroke ratio and well balanced type R crank.

Plus if there were any issues a B20 block isn't that expensive to replace... but I wouldn't be going mental with the tuning. I just think of it as a 84mm type R.

Talk me out of it.
 

Yazza54

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I've been quoted around £1500+VAT to sleeve my existing block, seems daft to do this unless the plan is to go absolutely nuts with it.

I reckon a B19 could be built for more like 500-750, B20 blocks aren't very expensive, would want some good forged pistons, or could be done much cheaper with some YCP/Nippon 84mm cast pistons.

Not sure what it would need mapping wise but the car is running OBD 1, I would imagine it would run safely on a B18C type R map with a bit of extra fuel added.
 

jesse888

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An old member on here had a b19.
Same idea as yours with toda pistons iirc and a set of cams(cant quite recall atm) lee s i think his user name was if you wanted to search it.
Iirc it made like 230-235hp, only issue i remember him having was constant oil leaks from the head/gasket area.

With high comp forged pistons id not be too confident running it hard on a standard b18 map. Perhaps pull the distributor timing back a good few degrees to get you by for a while.
 

Yazza54

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Yeah I saw that, I believe it eventually lunched itself but I'm confident I can put it together properly. I'd try and keep the compression ratio around the same as a standard type R B18c. I love the way the engine revs but I think I'd happily knock the rev limit down a little and keep the standard b18c6 cams. His seemed to well enough with an 8k limit.

From what I've read it sounds like there's no need to retro fit the oil squirters to the B20 block if using forged pistons because of the improved heat dissipation.. anyone know?

Also read that block guard is more trouble than it's worth but it's worth while posting the block. I'd wanna fit the B18c crank girdle etc too. Obviously there's the requirement of fitting an oil feed for the head.

Only other thing I'm aware of is the need to fit a good breather system... not sure if I can just transfer the B18c system to the new block?
 

Buckyy

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Not knocking you but seems like more trouble than it's worth? With the lad jesse is referencing making 230 hp it's achieveable with your B18C6 with less cost and more reliability?
 

Yazza54

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Go on how?

Even a set of cams and pulleys would set me back in the region of 500 quid on my standard engine and that wouldn't yield more than 10hp or so, then factor in a remap etc etc and probably lead to a more peaky engine and lifting the rev limit which is kinda the opposite of what I want.

The way I look at it is it's a cheap and easy way to gain a fair bit of displacement.
 

jesse888

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I guess it depends on what your wanting from the car although id imagine the b19 would still be able to rev out if youve got the girdle in it etc.
Cant see why 8600rpm isnt possible on it but my knowledge on b20s is pretty poor tbh
 

NicoEK4

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I think even those need a line hone to be safe. No machining in order to fit one but I'd still line hone whilst the engine is in pieces.

Yes, fit it, torque to spec and check the alignment at least could be a good thing.
 

jugbugz

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You can use your existing engine to build a 1.9-2.0.

Longer stroke custom crank, rods and pistons. Have the block honed to fit pistons. Huge exercise as you would like to increase the head port size to optimise flow and other supporting mods, especially tune.

Rev it to 8500 all day.
 

Yazza54

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I don't want to decrease the rod/stroke ratio. To get my existing engine close to 2L I'd need to sleeve it out to 84-85mm.

I'm tempted to do this tbh. I've been toying with rotrexing it but I love NA.
 

jugbugz

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Stroking it to 2.0 is more reliable than boring it out to 84-85mm. Still rev to 8500 all day
 

Yazza54

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Go on then explain why...

Proper aftermarket sleeves installed and bored out to 84-85mm are stronger than the standard sleeves and retains the standard rod stroke ratio.
 

AB_EK9

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Go for it mate. My B20z been running 5 years strong on stock sleeves. Tracked few times and use as daily. I run 11.7:1 RS machine pistons. Rest of the block is stock. Regular oil changes and warming up etc itl run fine. Rev has been set to 8200rpm which has more than enough power and torque before limit. 210hp 155TQ built and tuned by daz. All in the tune!
 

Yazza54

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I think I'd rather sleeve my C6, but then again it'd be a lot more expensive and sounds like B20s blocks aren't unreliable if kept NA.

Just waiting for the guys explanation above, love it when people on forums like this state their opinions as absolute fact and can't actually justify it.
 

jesse888

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Id boost it personally, i like the rotrex idea you where running with.
 
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