burning oil... like a lot


I would add valve guides, if the engine is so worn the rings and pistons need replacing the valve guides will be shot too, replacing valve stem seals won't save you here anymore I'm afraid...
 
oifovo said:
I would add valve guides, if the engine is so worn the rings and pistons need replacing the valve guides will be shot too, replacing valve stem seals won't save you here anymore I'm afraid...
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yeah ill be doing the valves as well as the pistons.
 
darcygr said:
does anyone in ireland know anyone who carries out this sort of work and what kind of price id be looking at?? i have the car up for sale now as it passed the nct yesterday but i really dont want to sell it, and i imagine an engine rebuild would make it hold its value for a few years anyway.

from what i gather, this is the list of things i will need to have done...

0.5 Oversize genuine/generic honda pistons and rings
Full headgasket and sump gasket set
Valve stem oil seals
Full set of ACL duraglide bearings
Ngk-r sparkplugs
Crank seal kit
New blueprint timing belt

Machine bore the block
Skim the head
Skim the block
Polish the crank
Valves reseated in head

Full building of engine.
Click to expand...

How much would a list like this cost to do on a K20 parts and labour?
 
take it to vtec6000 (Anoghus) who is commenting on this thread no's everything there is to no about honda's and more,dont call him the honda god for nothing lol he tuned my high comp b18c and done a brilliant job
 
kellsled said:
take it to vtec6000 (Anoghus) who is commenting on this thread no's everything there is to no about honda's and more,dont call him the honda god for nothing lol he tuned my high comp b18c and done a brilliant job
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yeah i think i might have to!
 
Vtec6000 said:
Problem with compression test is, your compression rings might be fine but your oil control rings on piston could be well worn so even if the compression test shows that everything is ok from a "compression" point of view it doesn't mean that the oil rings aren't worn.
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+1:nice:
 
darcygr said:
does anyone in ireland know anyone who carries out this sort of work and what kind of price id be looking at?? i have the car up for sale now as it passed the nct yesterday but i really dont want to sell it, and i imagine an engine rebuild would make it hold its value for a few years anyway.

from what i gather, this is the list of things i will need to have done...

0.5 Oversize genuine/generic honda pistons and rings
Full headgasket and sump gasket set
Valve stem oil seals
Full set of ACL duraglide bearings
Ngk-r sparkplugs
Crank seal kit
New blueprint timing belt

Machine bore the block
Skim the head
Skim the block
Polish the crank
Valves reseated in head

Full building of engine.
Click to expand...



Pm "Vtec6000 " , he tunes and builds Honda's. He is a top guy and he won't steer you wrong.
 
Haha sounds the same as the engine that was in my ek9 that I got off Jordan 101 except mine ended up going bang only 3 weeks into having it, and i was told it was fine, it used all the oil just driving it 350 miles from scotland lol,next step is spun bearings buddy what car is it btw,
 
vti2010 said:
Haha sounds the same as the engine that was in my ek9 that I got off Jordan 101 except mine ended up going bang only 3 weeks into having it, and i was told it was fine, it used all the oil just driving it 350 miles from scotland lol,next step is spun bearings buddy what car is it btw,
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dc2 type r! its driving really well, very economical for petrol, no noises or knocks or anything. only thing is the absolute tornado of smoke that comes out of it when i put the boot down!

what would be a sign of the baring being spun??

Full-14905278.jpeg
 
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Rich777 said:
Pm "Vtec6000 " , he tunes and builds Honda's. He is a top guy and he won't steer you wrong.
Click to expand...


yeah mate, if im rebuiilding this engine hes gonna be the guy to do it!

id rather have this done right than have it done cheap ya know?
 
i made compression test also and i had more psi than the oem one , the oem compression is 225 and i had 240 , but the problem is that the engine have pressure when u vtec in so this where the problem is , 1 year now i got this problem, i change the valve steam but nothing changes , previous week i opened the engine and we put some gasoline to all cylinders and we saw that at the 1st and the 3rd cylinder absorbs faster than the other 2 , so figured that the piston rings sux , we send it for fixing plus the head , the problem at the head is some pieces have gone damage i dont remember the expression but its something between the valves and retainers !!!! high cost of repair which i cried :/ good luck to u
 
darcygr said:
yeah mate, if im rebuiilding this engine hes gonna be the guy to do it!

id rather have this done right than have it done cheap ya know?
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Yep, I've known Aonghus for a while now. He's a top guy, I wouldn't recommend anyone else ;)
 
I have basically the same oil burning problems as you do. Up to 1.5litres in a matter of 300miles (if driven brisk, a lot less if I go careful). It smokes with the foot down,...lots in higher rev range....and builds up when coasting downhill or even at a steady pace for long periods of time...chucks out a big puff........litterally produces a thick cloud behind me if i get into vtec....

I have just gone straight for a rebuild...engine is on 140k miles so I have bought another b16a2 and and building it fresh with a few modifications..

I personally think that mine was stems in the earlier stages..but as it got progressily worse, Its got to be rings as well with the way its smoking now.

My cost for theoverhal to give you some ideaare:

new oems stems (£39) and a complete head rebuild (£90)

oem bottom end gasket set
oem head gasket
hondabond
thermal intake & tb gaskets
oem exhaust gasket
acl duraglide mains, rod, thrusts
RIKEN piston rings
sump baffles
few other bits oils, gbox oils, rad fluid...etc

total cost approx: £400

Bottom end:
Full inpection
Hone
dip clean
decked
reassembly with parts

Not 100% sure yet but under £200 easy for machine work.

And the b16a2 i bought to rebuild was £300....it already had
new oem water pump
new arp headstuds
new head gaskets
ITR valvetrain and cams.

LOL - As I am writing this I have just realised its the price of a b16b or b18c... and Iv got to get it mapped after this... so maybe its not the most cost effective solution..but its peice of mind that I will have a new, reliable engine that will endure many trackdays to come and hopefully produce a decent amount more then my engine now.


P.S. Leak down test and compression sound sensible of you want to deter what the problem is. Goodluck with it all.
 
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whys that rich? just for a but of extra power....i thought about it but wanted to keep costs to a minimum. was happy with a oem spec biuld...it was just a plus that the engine came with itr valvetrain.
 
Nah, more the condition of the bores. Most of the time it's the bores that are to blame not the rings. Bores distort and tapper from heat and pressure. Piston rings will always be a circle. Also if the bores have tappered then you.may have disformed the piston ring grooves which would cause the engine to.use even more oil. It's hard to say though really... you maybe fine, you maybe not, I'd rather just change the lot...
 
I had this exact same problem, ended up being the piston rings and as has been mentioned already I was getting great compression but the oil control rings were shot.

Ended up having the bores oversizes and fitting new pistons (honda do a .25 oversize piston with matching rings for both B18C and B16B).

Just make sure you use a reputable machine shop with a good rep and honda experience.
 
What the rings, can't remember to be honest. But I had some pretty bad vertical scoring in the bores which the hone didnt take out so we decided to go oversize for piece of mind.
 
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