MotorMo
Active Member
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2016
- Messages
- 161
- Car(s)
- USDM 1997 EJ6
I swapped a USDM B18C1 into a EJ6 (97 Civic DX Hatch). After wards I noticed some charging issues that involved head lights and dash lights dimming. No codes, no other symptoms other than 'knowing' my car and the feeling that it was starving for amps.
I swapped my Civic ELD for the GSR ELD ( all the while swapping two wires so they are in the correct location in the different ELD) and the symptom went away. The car ran like a champ. I was stoked and thought the original ELD the culprit.
Several months later, I found a code for the ELD stored in the ECU. I'm guessing it is not considered an "emission's" related code as my check engine light never turned on. Upon further inspection I realized a wire had pulled out of its crimp on the spade. After I repaired the wire, I am right back where I started with the same issues of dimming lights and voltage drops.
I've done a far amount of home work, and while watching the inputs and out puts of my ECU and my cars reaction, every thing looks like it is operating as designed. Confirmed the ECU's voltage vs battery voltage vs alternator voltage all matches. When the alternator goes to the higher setting of 14.4 volts, Everything works great, but when it dips down into the gas saving mode of the 12.2 volt charge, things slowly get dimmer and dimmer. Never good while driving curvy back roads at night.
So far I have replaced my alternator ( with a OEM ), cleaned my 'resistor connectors' under the intake manifold ( used for the ELD wiring ), cleaned the basic, larger grounds ( including G101), and tested my battery.
The most voltage drop measured was at the headlamp to battery @ .3 volt drop.
I am now thinking there may be more of a load with the different engine , and this may be a natural reaction with the cars electrical system. But this theory and the laws of electricity don't jive. It should 'in theory" all be the same, and should react no differently between the two engines.
Thought about simply disconnecting the ELD, having a code stored, until smog time comes up. But if there is some thing not right some where, I would rater fix it the right way, once.
For those of you who got to the bottom of this novel, thanks, and I welcome any input, past experiences, bypasses, or what not. Cheers
PS- All "stock", P72 ECU
I swapped my Civic ELD for the GSR ELD ( all the while swapping two wires so they are in the correct location in the different ELD) and the symptom went away. The car ran like a champ. I was stoked and thought the original ELD the culprit.
Several months later, I found a code for the ELD stored in the ECU. I'm guessing it is not considered an "emission's" related code as my check engine light never turned on. Upon further inspection I realized a wire had pulled out of its crimp on the spade. After I repaired the wire, I am right back where I started with the same issues of dimming lights and voltage drops.
I've done a far amount of home work, and while watching the inputs and out puts of my ECU and my cars reaction, every thing looks like it is operating as designed. Confirmed the ECU's voltage vs battery voltage vs alternator voltage all matches. When the alternator goes to the higher setting of 14.4 volts, Everything works great, but when it dips down into the gas saving mode of the 12.2 volt charge, things slowly get dimmer and dimmer. Never good while driving curvy back roads at night.
So far I have replaced my alternator ( with a OEM ), cleaned my 'resistor connectors' under the intake manifold ( used for the ELD wiring ), cleaned the basic, larger grounds ( including G101), and tested my battery.
The most voltage drop measured was at the headlamp to battery @ .3 volt drop.
I am now thinking there may be more of a load with the different engine , and this may be a natural reaction with the cars electrical system. But this theory and the laws of electricity don't jive. It should 'in theory" all be the same, and should react no differently between the two engines.
Thought about simply disconnecting the ELD, having a code stored, until smog time comes up. But if there is some thing not right some where, I would rater fix it the right way, once.
For those of you who got to the bottom of this novel, thanks, and I welcome any input, past experiences, bypasses, or what not. Cheers
PS- All "stock", P72 ECU