Common Ek problems?


7Readie7

F7 JJR
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Hi i'm looking too buy an EK9 think looking at a 98 spec.
When i go too look at it what would be the most common thing that goes, or would need replacing at about 60K just so i'm aware?!
And the ""dreaded blue smoke" problem, is this because it's burning too much oil? Or?
How do you ressurect this if it happens?
 
Blue smoke is usually piston rings that are gone, most people try to remain optimistic and think it's just the stem seals as these are easier to replace..... But yeah you're looking at an engine rebuild for this

Bushes and balljoints will be getting tired at that age and will need to look into replacing

Engine wise the cambelt/tensioner/waterpump should deffinately be done, as well as valve clearances

Check if engine mounts have been replaced, these are a weak point especially the rear mount bolted to the subframe, mine were all shagged after 40k

Check for the clutch slipping on a test drive, bonus if it's already been replaced! My oem clutch was completely worn out after 50k miles

Drivers side r/h bolster tends to go soft from getting in and out the car, replacement recaro foams can be bought cheaply enough though

Check for rust around the rear arches, front panel behind the front bumper and underneath if the car has not been undersealed

Rear lights the seals will go and let water in so check for leaks in the boot

Check that handbrake releases fine as the rear calipers have a tendancy to stick

Crunches in gearbox from worn synchros / MTF not being changed frequently, also the clutch slave cylinders are weak although very cheap to replace

Inner CVs are a bit weak so check for grumbling on full lock

TBH all of the above are things to look out for on BOTH a DC2 or an EK9, the suspension and drivetrain on both cars are VERY VERY similar and as a result share similar problems

Obviously look out for obvious other things like unever wear ont he tyres, scored discs, service history etc
 
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Thanks for the help, muchly appreciated!
So too be honest with you if i were too get that spec, alot would need doing too it?
Or could i get away with a few things?

What spec have you got/mileage? And what have you had too do to it? Has it been costly?
Where would you reccomend too get it done?
 
I bought my car with 37.5k miles, and so far have replaced........... EVERYTHING

new engine mounts
new suspension
every single suspension bush/balljoint
front wheel bearings
etc etc etc the list goes on, although i'm fussy and the car is now set up for track use

Luckily I do all the work myself on the drive, any reputable specialists should be able to help you though

I wouldn't buy one with a smokey engine, can of worms :((

As long as it feels "tight" to drive with no knocks or smoke you're onto a winner

Afterall they are a 10-12 year old car so are going to need SOME work, but if you start with a good one you will have less work on your hands
 
timig belt & water pump..get greddy timing belt double the mileage
 
Not good, lol.
Yeah thats true at that age you gotta expect it.. what would you say would be the esentials and too go too a garage a rough price?

Oh right so yours is a track car? Would i need too do all that for road use?
Where'd you get hold of all the parts?
Will a 6k car turn out being a 7k one then?
 
Blue smoke is usually piston rings that are gone, most people try to remain optimistic and think it's just the stem seals as these are easier to replace..... But yeah you're looking at an engine rebuild for this

Bushes and balljoints will be getting tired at that age and will need to look into replacing

Engine wise the cambelt/tensioner/waterpump should deffinately be done, as well as valve clearances

Check if engine mounts have been replaced, these are a weak point especially the rear mount bolted to the subframe, mine were all shagged after 40k

Check for the clutch slipping on a test drive, bonus if it's already been replaced! My oem clutch was completely worn out after 50k miles

Drivers side r/h bolster tends to go soft from getting in and out the car, replacement recaro foams can be bought cheaply enough though

Check for rust around the rear arches, front panel behind the front bumper and underneath if the car has not been undersealed

Rear lights the seals will go and let water in so check for leaks in the boot

Check that handbrake releases fine as the rear calipers have a tendancy to stick

Crunches in gearbox from worn synchros / MTF not being changed frequently

Inner CVs are a bit weak so check for grumbling on full lock

TBH all of the above are things to look out for on BOTH a DC2 or an EK9, the suspension and drivetrain on both cars are VERY VERY similar and as a result share similar problems

Obviously look out for obvious other things like unever wear ont he tyres, scored discs, service history etc

i have seen all those things fail but not at that mileage!!
 
Essentials.......

Engine:

Full service, oil/oil filter, fuel filter, plugs, leads, dizzy cap, rotor arm, coolant flush, thermostat (these should be replaced for peace of mind), MTF, air filter
Bleed the clutch

Suspension:

Rear trailing arm bushes, these are the first to show wear usually, replacing with new oem ones is best and will tighten up the rear end massively
Listen out for any klunks, sure sign of ARB drop links

Brakes:
At lease bleed the brakes and regrease the sliders on all the calipers


Thats a good start and shouldn't cost a fortune :nice:
 
Not good, lol.
Yeah thats true at that age you gotta expect it.. what would you say would be the esentials and too go too a garage a rough price?

Oh right so yours is a track car? Would i need too do all that for road use?
Where'd you get hold of all the parts?
Will a 6k car turn out being a 7k one then?

id say when you get it focus on the basics ie sparks+leads/oil/feul + oil filter/dizzy/cam belt+ tensioner. obviously look for the things stevens listed, rember you dont have to do everything straight away i did what ive listed when i first got the car and now at 95,0000 miles shes still going great :nice: up to date servicing as with every car is most important using the best products your budget can stretch to :nice: and wax oil her belly straight away!!!
 
Okay i will bare that all in mind for when i go too look! thanks for all the help!
 
Forgot too ask..
Where would i be able too get all these parts or could i get it done at a garage?
cambelt/tensioner/waterpump should deffinately be done, valve clearances, oil/oil filter, fuel filter, plugs, leads, dizzy cap, rotor arm, coolant flush, thermostat (these should be replaced for peace of mind), MTF,
 
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