EK9 Honda Civic Type R Weight Reduction advice


my spare wheel, plastics from my boot, carpet from the boot, a/c, parcel shelf. the whole gone. i know there's more but i can't remmeber
 
rvm said:
Yeah, but with no a/c or power steering on a daily drive, you will be IN PAIN man, tell me I suffer that for like 6 months lol :angry2:
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mine's a daily driver w/ no AC or PS. i don't mind the AC too much, but no power steering is a bitch, after i swap w/ the K20 ill make sure i put that power steering back in!! :nice:
 
JDM_J03 said:
mine's a daily driver w/ no AC or PS. i don't mind the AC too much, but no power steering is a bitch, after i swap w/ the K20 ill make sure i put that power steering back in!! :nice:
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Yeah, I raced on a big track 1 month ago with no power steering, my arms where in pain for about 3 days :mad:
 
rvm said:
Yeah, I raced on a big track 1 month ago with no power steering, my arms where in pain for about 3 days :mad:
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no pain, no gain. :p LOL

try muscling a sportbike at race pace & see how much easier it is to drive a car without PS at the track. :nono:
 
rvm said:
Yeah, I raced on a big track 1 month ago with no power steering, my arms where in pain for about 3 days :mad:
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Was it a road race track? Because im going to Auto-X this April and im scared my arms are going to fall off.
i like the feel of it on the road.. But i'm literally sweating when i get out of my car after parallel parking it :angry2:
 
JDM_J03 said:
Was it a road race track? Because im going to Auto-X this April and im scared my arms are going to fall off.
i like the feel of it on the road.. But i'm literally sweating when i get out of my car after parallel parking it :angry2:
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At speed the steering is far lighter, I can't notice too much of an effort difference between the two once the car gets going. You should be fine during auto-X.
 
Boys, while its great to come up with all these dieting programs like wonder 30 day weight loss scams, please don't forget to consider weight balance too.

I have experimented with extreme dieting before with works race EF9 in University and found that removing weight is the easy bit. Making the car balance through even weight distribution is even more important.

Basically , a car needs to be well balanced in order to go smoothly and quickly through the corners. If the balance is wrong laterally, then either the car won't handle well turning right or left (or both), meaning that the optimal traction is not achievable due to excessive slippage. The car needs to ride efficiently on its suspension, which only works well between certain tolerance levels, presenting an even profile to the air in order to generate the aerodynamic downforce evenly across the various aerofoils and diffusers. If the car is presented at an angle to the oncoming airstream, than the structures won't work so efficiently and the downforce generated will be suboptimal, causing the car to go slower through the corners.

Whether a particular car goes faster with its weight distribution central, forward or back depends on many factors including
the car's design
engine torque
chassis rigidity
handling characteristics
tyres
driver's preferred style
driver's weight/height
the track layout and surface (bumpy/smooth)

Some car/driver/track configerations require a lighter front end, others a lighter rear end. The physics define exactly which approach(es) are best, but as I say, there is no golden rule that applies in all cases, if there were then all cars would be equally efficient and of course they are not.
 
what exactly is the race base model? is it just the wind up window model? or is it a lighter model again?
 
britishracer said:
I have experimented with extreme dieting before with works race EF9 in University and found that removing weight is the easy bit. Making the car balance through even weight distribution is even more important.
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Corner balancing.

Where you find out how much weight is on the front and rear of each corner while also checking the cross weight with a pile of weights in the driver seat to take into account the fat or skinny driver... :p

But back to the topic at hand.

A smaller battery is worth 5lbs - and moving it right behind the passenger seat or even putting it in the trunk will help with weight distribution.

A smaller non airbag steering wheel along with removing the passenger side airbag is good too. This mod is questionable depending on your country and your personal preference. My car is not daily driven, but even when it was, I ran with no airbags. The combined loss is almost 30lbs, if you go as far as removing the supporting brace under the dash along with all the SRS wiring and brain.

Powersteering is another personal item to keep or remove. One must experience grippy R-compound tires or slicks and a tough roadcourse to really appreciate the beauty of P/S. I don't care how much you work out, but you're going to wish you kept it when fatigue starts to kick in and missing that apex caused you to run wide off track into a wall :p
 
b16 mini said:
what exactly is the race base model? is it just the wind up window model? or is it a lighter model again?
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It is the wind up window model with steel wheels and no fancy interior waiting for the race team to completely strip it out and equip it with proper race bits.

It also came with no P/S, but the rack had a higher lock to lock ratio (slower) so it requires less effort to steer.

An N1 (solid) crank pulley is another item that was featured on the race base model. Not recommended for daily drivers as Spoon president explicitly mentions that it does not dampen the harmonics and estimates the bearings are only good for 25,000kms on the street OR a season on the track (provided you don't blow the motor sooner)
 
RagingAngel said:
It is the wind up window model with steel wheels and no fancy interior waiting for the race team to completely strip it out and equip it with proper race bits.

It also came with no P/S, but the rack had a higher lock to lock ratio (slower) so it requires less effort to steer.

An N1 (solid) crank pulley is another item that was featured on the race base model. Not recommended for daily drivers as Spoon president explicitly mentions that it does not dampen the harmonics and estimates the bearings are only good for 25,000kms on the street OR a season on the track (provided you don't blow the motor sooner)
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thanks 4 explaining that:nice:, so how much lighter is the normal light weight model and what else is different apart from the window mechanisms?
 
Can't recall the weight, but it's easy to look up since one member listed all of the major components he removed. But if I were to guess, probably another 50lbs at best lighter which is eventually put back in, in form of a rollcage.

IIRC, you must have a race team or a garage to purchase the N1 model because it is not issued a VIN and is intended for off the road use.

Did you not read the rest of my post about what makes the N1 car what it is? It's all listed in what you quoted.:confused:
 
sorry,didn't word that question to well, what i ment was how much lighter is the normal production wind up window model (not the n1 model)compared to the normal model and is anything else different except windows?
 
lightweight tyres (toyo R888)
lightweight clutch - Ogura Carbon
lightweight calipers (Spoon)
lightweight absorbers/shocks - aluminium...(TEIN Super Racing or Buddy Club)
toda pistons - lighter than stock.....
titanium concods....
carbon intake manifold (ENDYN).....lighter than stock
 
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rvm said:
Yeah, but with no a/c or power steering on a daily drive, you will be IN PAIN man, tell me I suffer that for like 6 months lol :angry2:
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it is indeed a pain. dd mine for 4 yrs now like that.lol. hate it but at the same time love it.
 
Some great info here, my last eg, only had a dash and 1 seat at 1 point, but it didnt handle great till i got me mate's garage to corner balence it,
 
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