Extended Ball Joint
- Thread starter JDM 101
- Start date
stevenEK9
trackattack
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2007
- Messages
- 4,250
when you lower a car alot, you put the lower arms at funny angles, messing up the roll centre
Extended balljoints are 0.75" longer, which is enough to space the lower arms down, adjusting the roll centre
Result is flatter cornering / less bump steer
They are just as easy to fit as oem lower ball joints
I've fitted a set of buddyclub ones, although not refitted the knuckles back to the car yet, i'll update once it's back together and i get some miles on it
Extended balljoints are 0.75" longer, which is enough to space the lower arms down, adjusting the roll centre
Result is flatter cornering / less bump steer
They are just as easy to fit as oem lower ball joints
I've fitted a set of buddyclub ones, although not refitted the knuckles back to the car yet, i'll update once it's back together and i get some miles on it
my oem ones lasted several years from when car was new then fitted some blueprint ones about 2-3 years ago, these were ok when removed few weeks ago with just little wear but replaced again with bc set, cant say anythinbg about quality etc, will just wait and see after couple years
Steven, can you take some pics please of the BC ones you have fitted.
Looking at the mfactory ones, they have a metal sheath which goes over the ball joint and locates the snap ring at the bottom of the sheath.
Are the BC ones the same design or does the snap ring sit up near the bottom of the upright as a stock ball joint would do?
Looking at pics on japshop it looks like they might even have two grooves cut for the rings.
There is quite a price difference between the two manufacturers.
The BC ones look very bling and shiny. Is that a coating which will wear off? I've never known bottom ball joints to rust TBH, but then there is now a lot more of them exposed to the elements...
The mfactory ones also have grease nipples to allow you to add grease which again, doesn't look like the BC ones do so would prolong their life span. Maybe another year. Dunno if that makes it worth the extra tho.
The Hardrace ones are the same style as the mfactory ones and a bit cheaper (no UK price tho) than the BC ones.
Special Projects Motorsports
The other question is do you have top camber arm adjusters?
I've been reading various comments on forums about these causing the bottom arm to contact with the brake disc.
It seems it might be limited to Wilwoods and HiSpecs etc but I wonder if you have a set of 282mm discs (stock ek9 part right? I'm not a ek9 owner) and adjust the camber with top arms to bring the lowered hub back more towards the vertical if there might be a problem. THe angle of the ball joint not being vertical inline with the hub, so any extention moves the bottom arm closer to the brake disc.
The last thing, I don't suppose you have the one ball joints you pulled out and a set of calipers? I need to get these for an EF and have a feeling that since no one is advertising them for the EF they must be a different size. So might need my hubs maching (assuming EF joints are smaller) to fit.
Thanks
Dave
Looking at the mfactory ones, they have a metal sheath which goes over the ball joint and locates the snap ring at the bottom of the sheath.
Are the BC ones the same design or does the snap ring sit up near the bottom of the upright as a stock ball joint would do?
Looking at pics on japshop it looks like they might even have two grooves cut for the rings.
There is quite a price difference between the two manufacturers.
The BC ones look very bling and shiny. Is that a coating which will wear off? I've never known bottom ball joints to rust TBH, but then there is now a lot more of them exposed to the elements...
The mfactory ones also have grease nipples to allow you to add grease which again, doesn't look like the BC ones do so would prolong their life span. Maybe another year. Dunno if that makes it worth the extra tho.
The Hardrace ones are the same style as the mfactory ones and a bit cheaper (no UK price tho) than the BC ones.
Special Projects Motorsports
The other question is do you have top camber arm adjusters?
I've been reading various comments on forums about these causing the bottom arm to contact with the brake disc.
It seems it might be limited to Wilwoods and HiSpecs etc but I wonder if you have a set of 282mm discs (stock ek9 part right? I'm not a ek9 owner) and adjust the camber with top arms to bring the lowered hub back more towards the vertical if there might be a problem. THe angle of the ball joint not being vertical inline with the hub, so any extention moves the bottom arm closer to the brake disc.
The last thing, I don't suppose you have the one ball joints you pulled out and a set of calipers? I need to get these for an EF and have a feeling that since no one is advertising them for the EF they must be a different size. So might need my hubs maching (assuming EF joints are smaller) to fit.
Thanks
Dave
stevenEK9
trackattack
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2007
- Messages
- 4,250
I will be fitting my lower arms and hub knuckles back to the car tonight so will get some pics.....
Bottom arm will not contact the disc, can't see why this would have happened anyways since you have your dust gaurd behind the discs anyways!! I have thought about removing these gaurds for cooling purposes BUT in the event that a CV joint fails you will get grease all over your discs and zero brakes as a result, so the dust gaurds work as a safety measure too
Buddy club ones, there is no metal spacer, the circlip goes snug between the balljoint and the knuckle. oem Honda balljoints don't use circlips anyways so doesn't really matter, just an extra safety measure
Seems like a VERY tough coting the buddyclub ones use, there is no pretty way to install lower balljoints, just a case of hammering them into place, few scuffed areas round the edge of the top of the balljoint and there is no breaks in the coating
I have heard nothing but good reviews on these, will keep you up to date with how I get on, the rest of my suspension setup is fairly hardcore/track orientated anyways.........
buddyclub N+ spec dampers (12k front, 8k rear)
hardrace bushes throughout
mugen RTA bushes
superflex rear ARB bushes
ES front ARB bushes
Eibach front castor and camber/rear camber arms
all new oem honda TRE/TRI/ARB drop links
spoon front upper brace
unit 8 h-brace
j's racing rear upper brace
cusco rear lower brace
rega evo 15x6.5" +42 wheels
10mm front spacers
ARP extended wheel studs
toyo R888 195/50/15
Bottom arm will not contact the disc, can't see why this would have happened anyways since you have your dust gaurd behind the discs anyways!! I have thought about removing these gaurds for cooling purposes BUT in the event that a CV joint fails you will get grease all over your discs and zero brakes as a result, so the dust gaurds work as a safety measure too
Buddy club ones, there is no metal spacer, the circlip goes snug between the balljoint and the knuckle. oem Honda balljoints don't use circlips anyways so doesn't really matter, just an extra safety measure
Seems like a VERY tough coting the buddyclub ones use, there is no pretty way to install lower balljoints, just a case of hammering them into place, few scuffed areas round the edge of the top of the balljoint and there is no breaks in the coating
I have heard nothing but good reviews on these, will keep you up to date with how I get on, the rest of my suspension setup is fairly hardcore/track orientated anyways.........
buddyclub N+ spec dampers (12k front, 8k rear)
hardrace bushes throughout
mugen RTA bushes
superflex rear ARB bushes
ES front ARB bushes
Eibach front castor and camber/rear camber arms
all new oem honda TRE/TRI/ARB drop links
spoon front upper brace
unit 8 h-brace
j's racing rear upper brace
cusco rear lower brace
rega evo 15x6.5" +42 wheels
10mm front spacers
ARP extended wheel studs
toyo R888 195/50/15
GTLVR82
Moderator
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2009
- Messages
- 608
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...spoon quality...so expensive...