Looks so awesome dude, incredible job! Are you going to fill the 4 screw holes in the rear plate recess before paint? As I guess you're going to be running a 12x6 plate or something?

Also, PLEASE upgrade your inlet manifold to a D16Z6 one. It's the best mod for the D14's, I did it on my old one with a induction kit and the difference in power and noise was honestly super good. You can get them so cheap, they look 10000x better too. All you need is a gasket (£7) from a motor parts store and a b-series throttle pulley which is easy to find and you can then use your d14 throttle cable with it.

So excited for this :meet: <3
 
Looks so awesome dude, incredible job! Are you going to fill the 4 screw holes in the rear plate recess before paint? As I guess you're going to be running a 12x6 plate or something?

Also, PLEASE upgrade your inlet manifold to a D16Z6 one. It's the best mod for the D14's, I did it on my old one with a induction kit and the difference in power and noise was honestly super good. You can get them so cheap, they look 10000x better too. All you need is a gasket (£7) from a motor parts store and a b-series throttle pulley which is easy to find and you can then use your d14 throttle cable with it.

So excited for this :meet: <3
I'm just using the plate that was on before and it covers the holes, not sure what size it is

It's been on my mind! I think I'm going to, I'll get searching! Cheers man you've helped me a lot on that!
 
I'm just using the plate that was on before and it covers the holes, not sure what size it is

It's been on my mind! I think I'm going to, I'll get searching! Cheers man you've helped me a lot on that!

Awesome. You'll love it :D the induction noise sounds awesome I'll send you a video
 
UPDATE:
Parts are starting to arrive now for the engine itself!

Few more to arrive then it can go back in! Engine has had a new fresh sump and gasket and had some Locktite copper sealant on the edges! Not taking any chances this time!

Also fitted is a new kaiten lightened fly wheel weighing 4kg with a new bearing.
Was so much easier with the engine upside down!
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Flipped the engine back over and removed the rocker cover.
cleaned it all up and prepped for paint.

Painted it in a light nardo grey and highlighted the "HONDA" logo
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Back to headlights which where now ready to be built back up
Firstly I painted the frames of the headlight to a satin black to match the pumps and bottles. Giving it a much cleaner look.
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Split the lense and Prepped the chrome headlight part and scotched it to add a key, went for the same colour nardo grey instead of the common black
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Once they had dried I decide to highlight some parts of them to make it abit different, the more I look at them the more I like them!
But going to get hold of another set and do them my other idea so I have 2 sets.
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test fitted them back in ready for sealing, re fitted the painted crash bar and bumper brackets.
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UPDATE:
So I finished the headlights off
Re sealed them with black silicone keep it all black, heated it all up applied a bead of silicone and pressed the lense into the frame making sure all the clips clicked on!
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Also due to the high recommendations of a lot of people I went and found a d16z6 intake manifold for £20 with a new gasket, throttle body and sensors.
Just need to pick up a aftermarket fuel rail.
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Gave it all a strip down, used some carb cleaner to clean the internals and all the muck and grime off, then gave it a coat of silver hammerite to might the engine block and gearbox.
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Built it back up and test fitted it to engine to work out the hose lengths ect
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Just waiting on a woodruff key from H-tune then can fit the rest of the parts.
 
UPDATE!
A VERY GOOD ONE!

So after eurocarparts sending me the wrong cambelt 3 times I finally got the correct one!!
So go straight to it!
Fitted the new adjustable cam gear and woodruff key supplied by H-tune, then fitted the new water pump, fitted the new cambelt and tensioner, lock tited all the necessary bolts and start to build it back up.
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Fitted the painted casing, the new clear cam gear cover and the painted dipstick & tube.

Fitted new belts to the alternator and power steering
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Span the engine round, torqued all the fly wheel bolts up and aligned the clutched and fitted the gear box
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BAM WAS READY TO GO IN

Built the new engine crane up (makes life so much easier!)
And got the bay ready for the engine
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Got the in engine without and scratches or broken parts! Fitted the gear box mount and the two near side engine mounts so it can hold its self.
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All comments welcome
 
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Mate the fact that you have gone through all this effort with the orignal engine just goes to show that you are a true enthusiast, most people wouldnt bother because they would eventually be "putting a b series in there" without actually following through with it which in turn means the d series would of run the whole ownership without being serviced properly! Although smoothing all the bay and what not isnt my thing, this thing will still look awsome and obviosuly its each to their own. Keep up the good work man. Cant wait to see more progress.

Ben
 
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Mate the fact that you have gone through all this effort with the orignal engine just goes to show that you are a true enthusiast, most people wouldnt bother because they would eventually be "putting a b series in there" without actually following through with it which in turn means the d series would of run the whole ownership without being serviced properly! Although smoothing all the bay and what not isnt my thing, this thing will still look awsome and obviosuly its each to their own. Keep up the good work man. Cant wait to see more progress.

Ben

Woah! Some kind words Ben thanks! I appreciate it! I didn't really plan on doing this much to the engine bay it's self, I just got carried away!
But it's very true what you say about b swap dreamers haha

Thanks again x
 
UPDATE :

Got the rest of the engine mounts in and raised the NS top mount roughly about an inch just enough to add extra clearance and to keep the lower mount supported. Fitted the mount with new lock nuts.
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Fitted the break servo which I've painted black and mint green to make it look smaller. Which it sort of does!
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Put the new aluminium radiator in and started to connect the new hoses.
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Update:
Not much done as waiting for longer cable to extend the positive battery cable, new fuel rail and my new intake hoses.

As I welded up the holes for the clutch fluid bottle I had to relocate it,
I customised the bracket/clamp and made ones of the holes bigger so it would fit to the break servo.

Looks a lot better here and still accessible.
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Started to clip in all the engine loom/harness and tucking bit of the loom where I can!
 
UPDATE:
It's been a while, had a well deserved 2 week holiday in Tenerife!
Came back home to a lot of goodies all delivered! Just need the last few bits now.

So one packedge was my battery cable!
5 meters of 0 gauge cable. (Looks like a hose pipe)
Had a look at how to run it!
Crimped a new ring terminal on and ran the cable into the cabin. Tucked into the block to make it less visible and then down next to the loom into the harness hole.
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Also re cut the tucked fuel line and it was abit too long. This way it meet the fuel rail a lot nicer and tidier.

Once that was done I needed to extend the wire off the loom going to the fuse box. Only need about 3 inch extra to meet nice and no strain.

Split the wires and solderd the peice in
First time soldering so go easy!
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Once that was connected I got to fitting the intake manifold and fuel rail.
Fuel rail I got an AEM high flow rail in purple to match the tucked fuel line.
Fitted the injectors back in with new O rings, then fitted that back to the IM
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fitted the new gasket to the block and secured the manifold on.
Started to connect some fresh new black hoses on. Just waiting on a d16 fuel regulator as the d14 one dosent line up.
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All that's needed now is to extend one last wire from the battery cable to the fuse box. Crimp some new battery terminals on. Connect the new regulator then put the new fluids in!!!

All comments welcome
 
UPDATE:
Attached all the new hoses from the intake to the block. Fitted the d16 throttle pulley And fitted the new throttle cable. Plugged in all the sensors.
Split the loom down so I could tuck the injector plugs through the manifold keeping it abit neater and tidier
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Also recieved my hella supertone horn.
It came red so thought I best colour code it. Just need to wire it in.

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UPDATE;
Started off with finishing the power supply! Tucked all the battery wire through the plastic panels in the cabin
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Fitted a 150amp fuse to a fuse breaker near the battery
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Then earthed the battery in the boot
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Fitted a new battery clamp to the positive cable
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Once that was done I went back to the headlight to fit the new 6k HID bulbs and LED sidelights.

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Connected and fitted all the lights.

Double checked all the power supply and triple checked all the wiring then first time in a while turned the car on!
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Taa daaaahhh! It works! A good colour aswell!

Next on the list was wiring the horn up! And it dosent sound as bad as the standard one!

Fitted the adapter for the fuel line to fuel rail.
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Next one the list was to make an intake pipe as the one I have was a down flow.
Was going to buy a carbon Whale ***** but decided against it and went to make something different!

Used the filter off my old intake and got
Hold of some 3mm thick acrylic clear tube. And fitted to a 45degree bend
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D series are getting rarer and rarer now so good on you for keeping it, everyone's got an old smokey b16 and b18c4 swap now so pretty refreshing to see one being kept. My braided fuel line is a tad long too I reckon so migjt need to cut mine down like you have, doubt it'll effect fuel pressure but don't want a long line hanging down do we lol

Good progress
 
D series are getting rarer and rarer now so good on you for keeping it, everyone's got an old smokey b16 and b18c4 swap now so pretty refreshing to see one being kept. My braided fuel line is a tad long too I reckon so migjt need to cut mine down like you have, doubt it'll effect fuel pressure but don't want a long line hanging down do we lol

Good progress
Thanks for the comment man!
Just thought it's been a good engine so why not give it a bit of life!
I didn't cut the braided line down I cut the hardline abit further back so it brings the braided line neater
 
Update:
Not a good one!
Triple checked everything over, put some oil in the block then checked it all again. Put the key in Primed the fuel s couple of times to get the fuel in the rail.

Went to start the car and no spark
Everything other than a spark. Turns out after a lot of routing around and asking about its the immobiliser. As no green key light shows on the dash causing no spark.

Now on the look out for either a auto technician to disable the immobiliser. It to find and purchase a obd1 ecu the p28.

Other news
I found my car was had a little article in the banzai magazine!
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Also had my birthday on the 28th to be treated with a cake

The replica of my car
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Haha happy birthday man :)):meet:

Jus read through the whole build.

An i love it haha its mad way out of the ordinary an i like what your doing.

I would have put a b series in but then again thats me. Or turbod a d series.

Love all the custom stuff tho fair play :nice:
 
Haha happy birthday man :)):meet:

Jus read through the whole build.

An i love it haha its mad way out of the ordinary an i like what your doing.

I would have put a b series in but then again thats me. Or turbod a d series.

Love all the custom stuff tho fair play :nice:

thanks man!
thanks for having a read!

i think the plan when the car is done is to source everything i need for a b series swap and slowly rebuild an engine. i like to be different :) much more to come!
 
Hi Mate,

Is the engine, ecu, and key the same as before the work took place?

Check if the Dizzy is in the correct way, this is quite often done, if the dizzy was stiff to put back in it's wrong, pull it off and turn the tab that slots into the cam 180 degrees refit and try again.

Failing that is a wire unplugged or in the wrong place. Is the crank sensor plugged in?

What year is your car, there are a couple of bypass tricks depending on year that you could try, BUT i'm pretty sure the immobilizer stops the fuel pump....

Also just noticed that cam pulley you are using, if it's one i'm thinking of please remove it and replace with the original, I know it's a pain in the ass but I have had a few people come to me with an issue where the adjustment bolts have come loose and even broken, this can cause some serious damage.

Ben
 
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Hi Mate,

Is the engine, ecu, and key the same as before the work took place?

Check if the Dizzy is in the correct way, this is quite often done, if the dizzy was stiff to put back in it's wrong, pull it off and turn the tab that slots into the cam 180 degrees refit and try again.

Failing that is a wire unplugged or in the wrong place. Is the crank sensor plugged in?

What year is your car, there are a couple of bypass tricks depending on year that you could try, BUT i'm pretty sure the immobilizer stops the fuel pump....

Also just noticed that cam pulley you are using, if it's one i'm thinking of please remove it and replace with the original, I know it's a pain in the ass but I have had a few people come to me with an issue where the adjustment bolts have come loose and even broken, this can cause some serious damage.

Ben

Hey Ben!
Yeah the it's all the same stuff.

The dizzy is in the correct way as there's no struggle when fitting it but I'll see if it makes a difference turning it.

The wire is defiantly plugged in and the plug is getting 12v

Year of the car is 2000, and I've been told to check that the fuel rail will still get fuel but it won't pump so it could be the immobiliser.

It is the cam gear your thinking of but I made sure the bolts are well as I tightened them all up and applied Locktite.

Any help would be greatly appreciated
As I'm looking to get the immobiliser took out now. As the light is still not showing on the dash

Thanks man
 
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