Jesse888 Forged/stroker turbo ek9


That b16b sure sounded very healthy,
Anyway keep us posted cos I'm liking your build alot :bow:
 
Cheers bud,
I'm always working on it so I'm sure there's much more to come yet.
 
Small update,
For the sake of doing something really lol

Made up two new lines with Gavin's super flare machine, MUCH easier and faster. Quality flares Everytime!
Ran the lines and changed a T piece whilst I was at it.
Ran out of light and patience so will bleed it all up again after work tomorrow. Then I can finally hit the road to test the brakes for leaks etc.
Hoping to get an alignment in the next few weeks and maybe(if I'm lucky) drive the car!
 
Small update,
For the sake of doing something really lol

Made up two new lines with Gavin's super flare machine, MUCH easier and faster. Quality flares Everytime!
Ran the lines and changed a T piece whilst I was at it.
Ran out of light and patience so will bleed it all up again after work tomorrow. Then I can finally hit the road to test the brakes for leaks etc.
Hoping to get an alignment in the next few weeks and maybe(if I'm lucky) drive the car!
Good luck mate its frustrating not being able to drive our cars.
 
At least you sorted the leaky pipes! After that it looks like plan sailing!
 
Yeah it's getting abit boring now this constant work and no play lol

I can't be sure I've actually fixed the leaks as I'm yet to test...
We can hope though can't we lol
 
Right managed to get it bleed up today. Sort of atleast.
Found afew leaks at first, wound back the nuts and retightened them. Seems to have fixed the leaks atleast.
Rear line bleeds up perfect but the front I seem to get very tiny bubbles on both sides. Annoying but I'll look into it.
Took the car for a run to test the brakes/cooling system and just an excuse to hoon it about.
Got quite a bad hesitation on boost, combine this with my Rev needle issues I'm thinking its dizzy related but I can't be sure yet.
Get back from test drive and no leaks from the brakes, hit them afew times and worked the bias valve abit. I can now lock the rear or the front with a flick of the valve so that's cool.
 
That bias valve is clever stuff! Good that you got her out for a blast, good work :beer:
 
Yep looking forward to playing with that on track! Hate when you can't fully apply brakes because your already locking one end of the car! Should lower laptimes once I've got used to it aswell.
It all needs p clipping back down again but that's a small job really. Hopefully get to an alignment shop some time next week.
 
Changed dizzy today, fixed hesitation but still have the funky dancing rpm needle.
Car is noticeable faster and the AFRs seem to have leaned back out abit so that's good!
The rpm gauge only does when I lift off the throttle above 7k rpm. It then stays out until the rpm drops back down to 7k. It does this everytime so anyone with any idea?
@Vtec6000
@b16 mini
@LoganK
I swapped the ICM on the old dizzy and it still did this so I'd rule that out.
I'll check the condition of the plug on the loom end and all the wires at the plug but I'm not expecting to find anything.
Strange it's always at 7k...
 
Forgot to mention was greeted with 5 leaky brake line flares again today. Tiny build up on the nuts.
Fiddled with them for alittle bit, ran the car out again and no leaks when i got back, will check in the morning as that seems to be when the leaks happen...
 
That's a strange one that it only happens at 7k.

I Had a similar issue with a rev counter jumping many years ago, replaced with another dial and no more problem.
Can you borrow a set of clocks from any one local to try?
As well as checking the condition of the plugs I would have a look at the printed circuit on the back of the clocks and check the earths (the ones down by the ecu and by the bonnet pull cable -think that's where the dash loom is earthed)
 
Hopefully get to an alignment shop some time next week.

Since you obviously track the car a lot Jesse, I may be worthwhile learning to do it yourself. I string mine the day before every trackday to reset it as each time out I'll knock it way out of line. It's surprising how accurate you can be if you're careful with your measurements.
 
That's a strange one that it only happens at 7k.

I Had a similar issue with a rev counter jumping many years ago, replaced with another dial and no more problem.
Can you borrow a set of clocks from any one local to try?
As well as checking the condition of the plugs I would have a look at the printed circuit on the back of the clocks and check the earths (the ones down by the ecu and by the bonnet pull cable -think that's where the dash loom is earthed)

Yeah it's only after 7k, off throttle completely that it happens.
Will stay at zero until the revs come down to 7k or I touch the throttle. Doesn't seem to effect the performance of the car it's just annoying
 
Since you obviously track the car a lot Jesse, I may be worthwhile learning to do it yourself. I string mine the day before every trackday to reset it as each time out I'll knock it way out of line. It's surprising how accurate you can be if you're careful with your measurements.

I have done the string method before for toe adjustments. I've also got a "trackace" alignment tool that I know I'm accurate to 1minute with, its a massive faff though.
Brothers got one of those camber/caster magnet gauge things so I might even give it ago if I can find flat surface.
 
Fantastic thread with a lot of feedbacks very useful !
If I'm right you were runing a b18 N/A in a ek9 before ?
What do you prefer for track, not about power but feeling ?
 
Fantastic thread with a lot of feedbacks very useful !
If I'm right you were runing a b18 N/A in a ek9 before ?
What do you prefer for track, not about power but feeling ?

That's a hard question.
What do you mean Feel? I can modulate the throttle on the turbo car like I could NA. Ok sometimes a minimal delay but not really a problem. Other than that I can't see how you can feel a difference.
If the same power applied id have it NA of course but that's just not possible within my budget. I don't feel I've lost much coming from NA if I'm honest, what I have missed I can't exactly explain....
The car is much faster even on low boost and that was the whole point of the build really.
 
Right,
Still finding brake flare leaks. I say leaks they are small puddles on the nuts.
I can run the engine and hit the brake pedal as hard as possible and see no leaks. Leave the car overnight and I get tiny seepage. On all the front nuts in the engine bay. Odd it doesn't leak when I'm pressurising the system.

Thought I'd change the fuel filter and fit a new set of spark plugs.
 
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