Jesse888 Forged/stroker turbo ek9


Looking good mate! Interested in how the suspension changes will change the handling.
Is there any tea in that mug? Or do you have really milky tea? :naughty:

Its full up, the light makes it look like a cup of milk but its a decent shade in real life.
Yeah im interested in how it develops too, going to get the alignment done again as i noticed the camber on drivers rear is a fair bit less than the otherside. I also noticed at snetterton that the rear had less grip going round left hand corners so hopfully theres a gain there.
 
Shame about the shafts, hopefully Tegiwa sorted you out with something of equal capability, minus the capability of seizing, preferably

I was thinking of purchasing a set of Insane Shafts when the time came for the necessity of uprated shafts, if I do I'll make sure I open up the boots and make sure everything is sufficiently greased.

I rolled around on a leaky boot for close to 10 months before I got it sorted, OEM ftw
 
Yeah they supplied an insane CV joint, the difference in the grease used from the inside cv to the outside kind of makes me think it was the grease/or lack of that caused this issue. The inner cv was much more of what youd expect to see when you pull a cv boot off. The outer really was more like a congealed oil than a grease.
 
Are you having your coilovers re-valved to match the new spring rates before you fit them? Quite a big jump in spring rates there, not too sure if your dampers would be up to the job with their current valving.
I was going to do this with my yellow speeds on my EP3 but after speaking to Area Motorsport who supply the springs I was advised that the damper would need to be matched to the new spring. Wasn't a case of just putting on stiffer springs unfortunately.

If you are doing this then just ignore me :lol:
 
Are you having your coilovers re-valved to match the new spring rates before you fit them? Quite a big jump in spring rates there, not too sure if your dampers would be up to the job with their current valving.
I was going to do this with my yellow speeds on my EP3 but after speaking to Area Motorsport who supply the springs I was advised that the damper would need to be matched to the new spring. Wasn't a case of just putting on stiffer springs unfortunately.

If you are doing this then just ignore me :lol:

Unfortunately nobody is going to be able to revalve these old cuscos, i was going to get them put on a damper dyno and see what i could get away with but i couldnt get the top mounts off.
From the little technical info ive found they where offered with upto 11k springs on the front so ive taken the risk with the springrates. The front and rear dampers have the same part numbers on so the rears will be fine. For the cost of 1 pair of springs(that will likely fit other coilovers) i wont be out of pocket to try it. Im confident theyll be fine if im honest but proof is in the pudding isnt it.
 
Sorry i lied. Different part numbers but the offered spring rate for the rear is upto 8k. 9k is going to be fine for those.
My dampers are the top two lines. Top being front and 2nd being rear
 
That'd definitely a northern brew, maybe soon run northern power:drive:

Was looking at the fuel curve in my map the other day, i think i can gain with 1.5bar on this setup but ill start losing most of the gain after 7000rpm.
Id imagine instead of climbing to redline the power will hold flat(ish) from 7k upwards as the torque drops off.
 
Either that or the smaller housing and downpipe start restricting it. Probably abit of both tbh, in heinsight i should have gone absolute minimum of gtx2871 possibly gtx30 but at the time i wasnt aiming this high lol
The comp wheel is only rated at 475odd and that will be with the gt30 turbine wheel on it, exhaust side is strangled on my setup now.
 
Ill try 1.5bar when i get round to it. Should help boost my rookie numbers when it gets on the dyno
 
You just needs to grow a pair and turn it up!! The reason fuel peaks at 7k is that's peak torque and also the point where the engines VE changes, turbo will still make power after this point.
 
You just needs to grow a pair and turn it up!! The reason fuel peaks at 7k is that's peak torque and also the point where the engines VE changes, turbo will still make power after this point.

Fuels holding from 7000k upwards until 1.3bar where the drop happens at 7500. Its not a small drop either, almost a 45degree angle until 8500.
Tbf ive been at 95+% injector duty until recently so i have had all the boost i can get from those 725s. Will go for 1.5bar with the grams1000s once cars back running and see how it goes.
 
If fuel is dropping off that much you either have **** flow or tuning is out, Hondata fuel duty is not accurate I've told you before. for example my completely stock B16B with s300 leaned out to 13.5afr was 113% fuel duty.
 
If fuel is dropping off that much you either have **** flow or tuning is out, Hondata fuel duty is not accurate I've told you before. for example my completely stock B16B with s300 leaned out to 13.5afr was 113% fuel duty.

The afrs hold steady throughout so its not that, calculating the injector pulsewidth agaisnt engine cycle time shows it as accurate but ill take your word for it that it isnt. Either way inj duty isnt going to be an issue anymore with the 1000s.
The flow of the exhaust setup is where ive been pointing fingers, 0.63 T3 housing and 2.5" downpipe at this sort of boost/power? As i said originally 400hp was the upper limit, now id be abit upset if it didnt make that lol
 
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