K20 or B20 vtec?


so many stories on the net about cheaply built b20's blowing up so why bother.
yes it might be cheaper but why build an engine to rev high thats not designed to in the first place.
instead of going about trying to do a cheap b20 i'd build a h2b.

as for the k swap yes it'll be expensive but you dont have to build engines up and its an awesome engine out of the box.

b20's are great if you want to stick with b series but i'd rather spunk my cash on a very well built b18c lump
 
i can see this thread going the same way as the B18 conversion. how about people getting of their high horse and answering the question in hand and helping the guy out.
 
i swear people love to talk about doing swaps but in the end how many people go and do it??

so that people don't have a go at you by asking a basic question, hows about putting up what you will use the engine for ?? - daily driver or drag or track use or weekend car.
what is your budget ???
what are your goals of power ?? / how do you drive ??
what engine have you come from ??

these will help people understand your needs and therefore can work out what would be the best engine for you.

but from the basic question of B20 or K20 i would say K20 becuase out of the box it has more power. i know thats a simple answer but its answers a simple question.
 
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K24 exhaust mani is perfect for ek, also, if you change all wiring you don't need to buy kpro, you can use standart ecu...

Kpro is the standard ecu with a new circuit board put in which is mappable.

Either way all the wiring has to be changed to run a K
 
i swear people love to talk about doing swaps but in the end how many people go and do it??

Done a full K swap with a mate who lives 50 yards away from me.

I know all thats involved.

You'll have to come out with us lot topher when the weather is better. His car is beyond belief :shocked:
 
Done a full K swap with a mate who lives 50 yards away from me.

I know all thats involved.

You'll have to come out with us lot topher when the weather is better. His car is beyond belief :shocked:

that'd be sick man never even seen a K swap in the flesh. well i have at shows but its not the same is it.

i hope i still have my beast then.
 
During my short life i've made 5 swaps already, so don't tell me, that I am only talking...
 
Ive been looking at this between b20 and k20 as at a later date i want to go back to the 2 litre class in rallying, and the answer is k20 every time, the only thing that puts me off is the cost and ive read about poor sump clearance, which for me would be a complete no no.

But, thats in competition, looking at it for my road car, a cheap b20 swap wont get me 200bhp, but it would make a nice road engine.
 
Pointless running a standard ecu on a Kswap, the wiring, extra sensors, and the cost of it, and the fannying around, might as well go Kpro, anybody who has done it will want every last bit of power from the build for the outlay.
 
During my short life i've made 5 swaps already, so don't tell me, that I am only talking...

yeah alright man, i didn't have a go directly at you just saying it is common on here that people talk about it then you hear nothing more. hence why i asked questions to help you out mate but if you don't need anyone's help why ask ???

if you're gonna do it thats great mate. i wish you all the best
i think the general consensus so far is to go K series .
 
Pointless running a standard ecu on a Kswap, the wiring, extra sensors, and the cost of it, and the fannying around, might as well go Kpro, anybody who has done it will want every last bit of power from the build for the outlay.

Yep totally agree.

Once the K20's have been mapped on K-pro, k100 etc they are very different animals. It really is like night and day.
 
Pointless running a standard ecu on a Kswap, the wiring, extra sensors, and the cost of it, and the fannying around, might as well go Kpro, anybody who has done it will want every last bit of power from the build for the outlay.

Huh? Extra wiring, sensors, cost?

Fact is, to run the stock ECU all youll need that you wouldnt with a Kpro is the following ,

-Secondary O2 sensor (which will skin you all of a tenner from a scrappy, £45 brand new, assuming it doesnt come with the engine)
-Immobiliser bypass if its a UK ECU - about £60

No extra wiring if your using the hybrid racing loom

Its no great hardship if it means the difference in being able to afford the K swap and not being able to afford it. What you have to remember is that IT IS and expensive swap, not many people have the money to go all out and do it with every performance enhancing product available. However, it does become a viable swap if as many OEM parts as possible can be used to put together a perfectly operating swap that is ready to be improved on in the future when funds are there.
 
Comment is based on the isues my tuner was having getting things running, their first kswap, not sure on the technical details, but Kpro was the easier & better option at the time. Seems to me once its together and you want to bolt things on you need management anyway, if you have spent X amount on a Kswap an extra grand is not much in the scheme of things.
Every build is always down to budget, and what you want from the car, if funds are limited B18 is the logical solution.
 
Fair enough, I cant comment on what other people find difficult, but for many of my customers, that grand is the difference between affording the swap and not affording it, and theres no harm in using the stock ECU and upgrading later if need be.
 
B20 for me.
I already have a type R head, cams and valvetrain, intake and decent exhaust so all i need to do is source a bottom end, rebuild it with higher comp pistons, get a convertion kit from DNR or golden eagle, get it mapped and ill be sorted for at least 220-230hp/ 150lbft should do me fine. As my ITR motor is fairly good just lacking in low-mid torque really.

I dont care what people say if your looking for around 200hp but with plenty more torque B20 is the easiest and cheapest. Built motor or stock internals. Built they are still good for 250hp/160lbft. As for reliability its all down to the quality of parts and word done. DNR seem to have a very good reliability record. After all dont they hold the record for fastest N/A honda 1/4m with a b20 crx.
 
I dont care what people say if your looking for around 200hp but with plenty more torque B20 is the easiest and cheapest.

For a cheap build, oem reliability, 200hp and plenty of torque what about the H22 or go H2B?
 
I think Kieran is assuming already having a Bseries engine.

And H2B isnt very cheap.
 
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