K20 vs. B18C EK swap Challenge


Which type R swap for the money?

  • K20 swap

    Votes: 32 46.4%
  • B18C

    Votes: 37 53.6%

  • Total voters
    69

tico_ek9

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Jun 21, 2007
Messages
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I'm starting this to get all the pros & cons of the 2 swaps into a Civic...
I want input from members who have done the swap or who has either in their ride. Info on swap parts & accessories "the musts", price $, & brands names. What WHP a K20 & B18C puts out + Gas mileage or Kilometers per Gallon.. If you had both, then which swap did you prefer? Which swap gives you more bang for your Buck/Euro? lol I especially want this I want a the swap/part list for K20 or B18 into a Civic & year to complete this swap..

PLEASE this is for REAL questions & INFO so please keep all posts Clear & to the point.....
 
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Can I just ask what is the average price over in the US for a K20 swap including all parts?

haitch has done it on his and had a few problems but others have found it fine.
 
Can I just ask what is the average price over in the US for a K20 swap including all parts?

haitch has done it on his and had a few problems but others have found it fine.

$5000 to $6000 at most JDM sellers...complete swap
 
Alot of views people & no feedback..please help out I want to get this going...
 
k series are beautiful you can make a ton of power but they have a weakness ( transmission ) wich is a lot of money if you trying to get stright cut dog gears. i personally sold my b18c5 motor to go k20 on my eg and i might have to sell one of my other cars to built the tranny but once that is done it will be game over for b,f,h,d,j series swaps. but most of the people here will tell you to go with the b18 wich is a bad ass motor with a lot of potential. just go with your budget and do your research.
 
Some advantages of the K20a/a2 engine which spring to mind when comparing to a b18c.

iVtec= VTEC + VTC- VTC (Variable valve Timing Control) which allows for dynamic/continuous intake valve timing and overlap control thus allowing torque output to be optimized across the entire rev range and at part throttle it can be utilized to give better MPG and lower emmisions.

(COP)Coil-on-plug ignition system- No distributor related problems, stronger spark and improved firing angle stability at high rpm's.

Roller rockers - Less friction compared to the rocker arm assembly of the B series.

1,998 cc Displacement- The extra ~200cc displacement;) Also the engine is 86x86mm(bore x stroke) with a R/S ratio of 1.62 which is pretty close to ideal for a high revving engine.

I'm sure there is some more advantages but that's the main ones I can think of.
 
The fact that with simple bolt ons and tuning push a K20 to power levels not even high compression built ITB's B series setups can achieve really make the K20 the best bang for buck.
 
Hey,

I suggest having a look on Hybrid-Racing as they can supply everything you need! Must parts include..

mounts
axles/driveshafts
header/exhaust manifold
conversion loom
shifter box and cables
fuel pressure regulator

Other things to consider are:

radiator hoses
air intake

I recommend Hondata Kpro, a decent intake manifold, exhaust system and a good tune to gain K20 potential.

^^^By member, Vince
Anymore input from Kseries owners ???
 
I see Votes here on B18C poll but NO input on your case why? come on members quit browsing & post up..this is helpfull to all of us & would prevent "newbie dumb questions"
 
The one problem i haue with a k swap is that it seems to understeer a bit more compared to when it was b18. But the straightline power for a na with breathing mods and a good remap are night and day compared to a b18 with even a built engine.the low down torque is brillant plus the fuel economy.

Vtec 6000 mapped my k series and i think even he was surprised how quick it was after a remap for a na.
 
I believe the reason the k20 doesnt handle as well is due to engine rotation. The K turns the other way. When the b turns it actually pulls the front end down, the k turns the other way and the effect is lost.
 
i can im not a expert but i have done a lot of reseach and having and helping with their k series swaps has help me a lot.
part list. is quite a lot of parts as you know is not a plug and play swap like b series
*kpro
*mounts(hasport/hybrid racing/avid racing)EKK1 or EKK2
*conversion harness (hybrid racing/hasport)
*swap headers
*fuel kit (fuel lines,fuel pressure regulator,fuel rail)
*shifter plate (karcepts or hybrid racing that sits on top and you dont have to cut the floor board)
*clutch line
*axles (you can use ep3, rsx basic ,or type s with b series outer )
THOSE ARE LIKE THE MAIN ITEMS OFCOURSE DONT FORGET ABOUT THE COMPLETE SWAP THE ESYEST AND BEST WAY TO GO IS K20A2 OUT OF 02-04 RSX TYPE S
Thanks Oscarsayco
 
My questions on the Kswap is;
ECU: which do I use Oem or hondata?
Subframe: I noticed that most K swaps don't have EK/EJ oem subframes?
Power steering: can I use EK/EJ or what mods to do?
A/C still possible or delete?
wire harness or Loom? what mods & how?
 
I currently have a b18c1 swap. Im planning on doing a kswap in the future, but for now I'm having fun with the b18 its pretty quick. Good luck on your decision!
 
My questions on the Kswap is;
ECU: which do I use Oem or hondata?
Subframe: I noticed that most K swaps don't have EK/EJ oem subframes?
Power steering: can I use EK/EJ or what mods to do?
A/C still possible or delete?
wire harness or Loom? what mods & how?

You can use a stock ecu but you'll be looking at around 200bhp, with a Kpro and tuning you'll be looking at nearer to 250.

I am running at DC2 ITR subframe, because the back of the engine sits lower when combined with EKK2 style mounts, which provides a better angle for the driveshafts. You can run EKK1 style mounts on a stock subframe though which works fine.

I've never had A/C, but if I did have it, I would have ripped it out years ago.

You run the stock K20 loom along with a conversion harness.
 
Learned today that you can use your EK/EJ oem subrace If you get the EKK1 hybrid racing Motor mounts & if you use EKK2 mounts you should use a DC or EG subrace, LCA's for a K20 swap....
EKK1: Hybrid $450 Hansport $450
EKK2: Hybrid $520 has 2 positioning setting depending on what axles your running.
 
My friend has a k20 ek with EKK1 engine mounts and the engine don't stays in the right position. This is bad for weight balance and also has problems with the axles. He is thinking for EKK2 mounts with eg subframe...

K20 swap is much more expensive than b18c but you can achieve easily 250 bhp with a full exhaust, kpro or aem ecu and a cold air intake. The reason is because K20 cylinder head achieves 300 cfm in stock!! numbers that the best tuned b-series heads can not achieve...

On the other hand a b18c with exhaust,intake and ecu beats very easy a stock k20... I mentioned that because with the money you have a 1st stage b18c swap you can't even make a k20 swap.
Also b18c is much better for daily driving in ek. K20 has a lot noises to the interior.

So if you have a small budget and your car is for daily drive b18c > k20.
If you want a track car and you can afford the k swap go for k20. You can achieve easily very good power.

My English are a little bit poor to express my thoughts but i hope you understand me!
 
B18C until you need more power, then upgrade to the K20. ;)
 
If i was planning to install a new engine i would go for k24 block and k20a head for my EK4. I have a friend who has S2000 which blow his engine up and he get for it a k24 block and k20a head with Toda Spec C cams now the car is a lot better with the K-Series engine has more torque from low rpm's...
 
I believe the reason the k20 doesnt handle as well is due to engine rotation. The K turns the other way. When the b turns it actually pulls the front end down, the k turns the other way and the effect is lost.

Very clever!! I was trying to work it out as the k20 is lighter than the b18c-r which i guess is another plus.

Luckily b16bs and b18c-rs still hold quite a premium so a good chunk of funding for a K swap can be made when selling the original motor out of your ek9s and dc2s. As has been said the b18c-rs are far more highly strung in stock form meaning pushing more NA horses out becomes challenging. If you plan to keep and develope your car for a good while longer i would go for the K swap as in the long run you could develope it further rather than reaching the limits of the b18c very quickly. (Hope that made sense)

Dont get me wrong though a propper set up B18C-r on ITBs, management and a close ratio box would be sooo incredible :D
 
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