Hey,
With civic EK chassis, i mean the civic model 96-00.
Sourcing the parts nowadays shouldn't be too hard. There's ton's of stuff that can be found on Ebay (do a search on K20 swap or something like that).
Like the swap header, swap axles, engine mounts, conversion wiring looms, fuel rails, fuel pressure regulators,...
And with the cheap dollar nowadays (compared to the Euro that is
) you can do some good deals
When you swap the K into a 96-00 civic, it's best to buy a Karcepts mounting kit for the RSX shifter and cables (which you can find on junkyards). With that kit, you can install the RSX shifter box nicely under the center (handbrake) console, so that everything looks OEM in your interior)
for the engine mounts fo a 96-00 civic, you have 2 options:
The EKK1 kit and the EKK2 kit.
The EKK1 kit is the "old" kit, for this one you don't need extra parts.
The EKK2 kit is the "newer" kit, and this one requires you to get a subframe, lower control arms, and steering house of the civic EG chassis (92-95).
With the EKK2 mounts, the K20 engine will be placed a little more to the back of the engine bay, and thus is better placed for wheigt balance. Also the ground clearance of the oil pan is better with the EKK2 kit.
K20 engine's can be found easier and easier these days. The question is if you want to go for a european K20A2 engine (200 BHP and has immobiliser) from the civic Type-R EP3, or a JDM K20A engine (220 Bhp, and has NO immobiliser) from the JDM civic Type-R EP3 or the JDM integra DC5.
Again, a lot of engines can be found on Ebay, but then you don't quite know what you are buying, and there are a few scammers on Ebay too.
I don't know where you are from, but you can always check for Honda junkyards in your country.
When you go for the JDM engine that has an ECU without immobiliser, your engine will actually work without any "tuning". But it is much better to go for a fully programmable K-PRO ECU from Hondata. That way you can really finetune the engine, and it wil work much better with the after market parts.
When you want a K-PRO ECU, you have to send the original ECU to Hondata, and then they add some microchips to it, and tweak it a little bit, so it can be programmed afterwards (count on +/- 1000 $ for the K-PRO)
A lot of good pictures of the swap process can be found here (this guy also did a auto to manual swap):
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=7176
If you want to go for the swap, I suggest you read a lot on the K20a.org forum, to get an idea of the whole process. I don't recommend to just start doing it, because I think you might get a little frustrated, because you don't quite know how to do things.
Make a list with all the parts you're going to buy and WHERE you are going to buy them, and then you can get a good idea of the price you are going to have to pay. (This way you don't run into any surprices)
Good luck with the swap man !! And let us know your progress here !!
