Long tumble to cold start!

[ReVHard]

Hey, dudes, I just changed my engine oil(Mobil 1 15W-50), oil filter(FRAM), plugs (NGK R ZFR6F), Oil Filter (Genuine Replacement) and Gearbox oil (Redline 75W-90) and added some molyslip 2001E to the engine oil...
so everything should be good right....not quite....

before I changed everything, when I started the car on mornings (when the engine's cold), the engine tumbled like a normal cold honda engine (ch.ch.ch.ch.ch.start ).....
Now after I changed everything, it starts like ch.ch.ch.ch.ch.ch.ch.start!...wierd huh. but once the engine warms up, and I cut off and start again it starts ok.

Does anyone know why this is happening, I heard something about cold start and hot start plugs but I'm not sure, what do you guys think!

Thanks,
ReVHard....

 

[ReVHard]

bump!

 

[EK4J]

Which oil filter is in your car now? OEM or FRAM?
Because I've heard a lot of people complaing about the FRAM filter [not the HAMP, which is also a FRAM but seems not to have the problems of the ordinary FRAM]. So you could start by checking on that. And if I were you I would only use OEM filters or HAMP's.

 

[Bon87]

1. Is that grade of engine oil correct for the B16b?
2. Why didnt you use Honda MTF for the transmission?
3. do you let the fuel pump prime before you START the engine?

 

[ReVHard]

1. the B16B can use up to 20W-50 oil and I live in the Caribbean where it's hot, so I used 15W-50.
2. A good honda mechanic recommended the Redline MTF.
3. By 'let the fuel pump prime' do you mean turn the key to start and and wait a while before starting the car? If it is then I always do that,
4. and the FRAM filter I used the exact same filter that the car had when I got it.

I only get the problem at cold start......

 

[type-r-dunk]

Turn the ignition on and wait for about 1 1/2 seconds for relay click. This is the fuel pump priming and it wont start till it is up to pressure. It will then start on the first ch.
Dunx

 

[ReVHard]

Turn the ignition on and wait for about 1 1/2 seconds for relay click. This is the fuel pump priming and it wont start till it is up to pressure. It will then start on the first ch.
Dunx

dude, I do this everytime I start the car....I just now started the car and it did the same hard start thing....I almost thought it wasn't going to start.....then when I drove around switched of then started again it started really well.....

Has anybody experienced this before?

 

[bosniacrx]

1. Is that grade of engine oil correct for the B16b?
2. Why didnt you use Honda MTF for the transmission?

That is the question, but answers will probably not solve your starting problem.
Good Honda mechanic probably new you had limited slip differential and gave you Redline 75W-90 Slip one.

Non slip is not good, as I heard.

But from the honda manual: Alway use Genuine Honda Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF). Using motor oil can cause stiffer shifting because it does not contain the proper additives.

 

[Vtec6000]

When did you change your battery last?

 

[ReVHard]

That is the question, but answers will probably not solve your starting problem.
Good Honda mechanic probably new you had limited slip differential and gave you Redline 75W-90 Slip one.

Non slip is not good, as I heard.

But from the honda manual: Alway use Genuine Honda Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF). Using motor oil can cause stiffer shifting because it does not contain the proper additives.

omg....I used the Redline 75W-90NS is this bad?

and vtech6000, just checked the battery and it's readin 12.70v.

 

[bosniacrx]

Sorry back to problem.

I agree: Check Battery - measure voltage or

- to have explosion in cylinder you have to have: spark, air + fuel, and to have spark and fuel you have to have battery.

in the morning when battery is sleeping and cold, you switch ignition on, just to hear fuel pump working for 2 sec, switch it off, and again on. Lets fuel pump make good pressure on injectors. Wait for 30 seconds. Your battery will be initiated to wake up. Try to start engine and if it start faster then before, it is probably the battery.
If it is the same, measure voltage, to see if it is up to battery.

 

[b16 mini]

did i read in another post the other day you replaced your fuel filter?
check it for leaks when you "prime" the pump,(pressurise the fuel system from pump to fuel rail)
also give your old spark plugs another try and see what happens with them back in.

 

[ReVHard]

I will try these recommendations in the morning and let u guys know what's happening.
......I must get to the bottom of this!!

Thanks.

 

[bosniacrx]

omg....I used the Redline 75W-90NS is this bad?

and vtech6000, just checked the battery and it's readin 12.70v.

Mine is 14.7 V,

I read about Non Slip not good for the limited slip differential, but good for the non Honda transmissions, and I would stick to the Honda genuine if I could, but there is still no Honda dealer around and I stick to Blinx now

Honda transmission for D and B series both can use Engine oil but it is better to have one with EP additives.

EP - Extreme pressure

I found damn article for you:

Stock has arrived!

Limited quantity of fully- synthetic Red Line manual transmission oil 75W-90NS (non-slip) API GL-5-type specifications:

This GL-5-type gear oil doesn't contain the friction modifiers for limited-slip hypoid differentials. This makes the transmission synchronizers come to equal speeds more quickly, allowing faster shifting and much easier low-temperature shifting. Can also be used in racing limited-slip differentials where weak spring design causes too much wheel spin. Does not contain EP (extreme pressure) additives which can corrode copper synchros in gearboxes needing API GL-4 gear oil. Suitable for most gearboxes except for Hondas, which require 75W-80 weight gear oil.

Market price is RM62.5/quart, but now for a limited period it's offered at RM55/quart, with postage waived for orders of 2 quarts and above. Items are located in JB, and COD (cash on delivery) is welcome for those in JB. Reserve yours today with me if interested, as only limited quantities will be available.


For more technical info: Red Line synthetic gear oil 75W-90NS

Contacts:

Edward
XLIQ.blogspot.com
com . yahoo @ esky369 (reversed to fight spam- please reverse it for actualy email address)
012-7200 996
07-2231 211 (O)

 

[ReVHard]

holy crap!....then I used the wrong gearbox oil? and to think it's workin kinda good....Talk about money down the drain....gonna have to go with the Honda MTF now.
Is there any way to flush my gearbox of all the 75W-90ns before I add the Honda MTF?

and btw....what voltage is the battery supposed to be?

 

[bosniacrx]

Please wait till someone else confirm what I wrote. People write lots of stuff I am damn to read all and remember.

I have also check the book by Robert Bowen: How to rebuild and Modify your MT
isbn-13: 978-0-7603-2047-1
isbn-10: 0-7603-2047-0
in which there was B transmission described.
"Honda recommends engine oil for these transaxles, either 10x-30 or 10w-40, depending on the climate. While this works well for daily driving, engine oil does not have high levesl of EP additives, and the gears inside these transaxles tend to wear faster than others. ...REdlines MTL or Pennzoil Synchromesh would be a good starting point..."

On the redline site pdf book:
"Limited-slip clutches require additional slipperiness compared to conventional hypoid differentials in order to prevent the noise and vibration producing stick/slip phenomenon. Most of these friction modifier supplements detract from the load-carrying capability of the lubricant. Red Line's 75W90 and 80W140 Gear Oils have been developed to
be used in both conventional and limited-slip differentials, providing additional slipperiness for the limited-slip units and also enhance the load-carrying capacity of the gear oils."

"LIMITED-SLIP COMPATIBILITY
Red Line Gear Oils, with the exception of the
75W90NS, and 75W140NS, already contain friction
modifier required for operation in limited-slip differentials...."

I will attach that PDF so you can see and decide.