OEM clutch and lightened flywheel. Counterweight?


Gee

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Dec 7, 2008
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Hi guys,

Still not decided on a flywheel yet but think I will be sticking with an OEM clutch. Getting pretty mixed reviews from people that have used Exedy and F1Racing.

However, while researching I read that if you are going to use a lightened flywheel you need to upgrade your clutch to one that grips/bites harder?

Also you need some 'counterweight' when you buy a lightened flywheel?

Can anyone elaborate on these two points?

Thanks.
 
I used clutchmaster FX500 cluch set, that is really much harder than the OEM one. Also I used Fidanza flywheel with it. I did also put longer first speed and 4.928 Mfactory final drive, but it is not good combination for the 1/4 mile.
Did not improve time, as you have to use fifth gear, but also did not have any problems whit all those components. Truth is that you feel those changes, car behaves differently.

In order not to spend money so fast as I did, just think of what this change can contribute to you. If you are going to drive car daily weather you really need flywheel. If you are going to complete the car then you have to thing twice as much about the combination of parts you are going to put.
 
Yeah, I know.

Some good points.

It is REALLY worth it on a daily driver? Some say yes..great improvements. Some say no.

But, can some one advise on my original questions?

:)
 
As I have said before the light flywheel is a great mod - even on a daily. As for needing an uprated clutch because you have a lighter fly is a load of tosh imo - and yes I have tried both combinations.
Road & track the oem clutch & light fly is perfect, if you have a racing car then yes uprated is good, mine is oem and takes a real beating on track - its plenty up to the job.

Find a member who has an uprated clutch, get a drive in it - especially traffic/town driving, then get back in your own car and feel the lightness of the clutch pedal - you will notice the difference immediately, even on the Exedy stage 1, and for a daily (especially if you deal with lots of traffic) oem is all you need.
Then again who knows you might prefer the firmer pedal :p
 
Upgrading the Flywheel on your RX-7 or other Rotary application? Then you’ve come to the right place. ACT Flywheel Counterweights are designed and manufactured for 1986-1995 RX-7 and Rotary applications from that year. ACT Flywheel Counterweights are required when replacing your stock flywheel with an ACT XACT Flywheel to maintain the balance from that the motor experiences from the factory.

seems pretty clear to me.
 
and here I was thinking you were going to do a 13B swap too! :p j/k... haha cheers!
 
Standard clutch will be fine, can't see why you would NEED an aftermarket one

Exedy release bearings are meant to be a bit gash too from what i hear.......

Lightened flywheel is a very good mod ;)
 
I had a oem clutch fitted yesterday with new slave cylinder , My clutch is as light as a feather , Car is a dream to drive again . And it was filled up with MTF at the same time . I didnt bother with the lighter flywheel in the end :nice:
 
i'v got ACT prolight flywheel with oem clutch, i abuse it pretty hard at times and it puts up with it no problem:nice:
 
Ive got a Exedy Stage 1 and a Fidanza flywheel in my B18. It works great, it sticks, even when i do a 2. gear burnouts on a dry road with Toyo R888 semi slicks :)

Mine is a daily driver to :)

The clutch is a litle bit harder than the oem, but not much, you can still drive 5 or 10 times throug the city without getting a tired food :drive:
 
ill be fitting an exedy stage 1 (got it cheap + thay make the oem teg clutch!) and mfactory fly at sum point if that helps you to decided, oh and ots a koyo release bearing in my kit. would also note that mines not a daly drive as i get picked up for work :))
 
Well I went OEM and ACT flywheel guys.

My thread will be updated soon, B18C should be arriving tomorrow MUHAHAHAHA!
 
Well I went OEM and ACT flywheel guys.

good choice!

just to note you may want to get yourself 3 extra pressure plate mounting bolts,
the act flywheels have 9 fixing holes like the early b16a1 engines had, the oem pressure plate also has 9 holes, but on our engines only uses 6 of them.

i thought it was probably a good idea to use all the bolt holes due to the design of the flywheel.:nice:
 
However, while researching I read that if you are going to use a lightened flywheel you need to upgrade your clutch to one that grips/bites harder?

that's only needed on the k20 transmissions if your upgrading to stage 1 up:nice:
 
Last edited:
good choice!

just to note you may want to get yourself 3 extra pressure plate mounting bolts,
the act flywheels have 9 fixing holes like the early b16a1 engines had, the oem pressure plate also has 9 holes, but on our engines only uses 6 of them.

i thought it was probably a good idea to use all the bolt holes due to the design of the flywheel.:nice:

Oh, LOL

Better get down to Honda tomorrow then. Don't suppose you know the part number? :secret:
 
Oh, LOL

Better get down to Honda tomorrow then. Don't suppose you know the part number? :secret:

no dont have it sorry, just took the bolts out of a b16a lying round.

did you go for the street light or pro light.

i changed the crankshaft oil seal when fitting it as well, the old one looked a bit suspect, if it started to leak it would soon get through the holes in the centre of the flywheel and ruin the friction plate, so better to be safe than sorry:nice:
 
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