OEM or Camber Arms? HELP!!!


keithiesbig1

EAT SLEEP BOOST RPT
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Jun 15, 2010
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I have searched google for hours and hours and no further forward! I need to replace my worn ek9 front OEM upper ball joints, this meaning i have the following options:

OEM Replacement:
Complete arm assembly from Honda (Approx £300 a pair)

Aftermarket Camber Arms:
Skunk2 Pro Series Pro Plus (approx £280 a pair)
Thoughts - Heard a lot of problems with allen key bolts snapping and ball joints being replaced yearly!

Hardrace adjustable Camber arms Link (approx £150 a pair)
Thoughts - Heard stories of these bigger bolts hitting the tower/strut and in 1 case piercing the tower!

Hardrace solid Camber arms Link (approx £250 a pair)
Thoughts - never knew hardrace done an OEM equivalent, may be an option as it will be harder wearing bushes and boot at a cheaper price than HONDA OEM

Car is running BC coilovers and currently quite low but plan on raising slightly. Can anyone give me experiences with these aftermarket parts or give experience with other camber arms, i dont have much confidence in any of the aftermarket arms TBH :nerv:

Cheers :blinx:
 
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if you're not needing to adjust camber have you thought about simply pressing out the balljoints and replacing them?

I'm pretty sure they press out with a little bit of force and a phone call to a few local motorfactors will locate you a pair of new ball joints, the correct size and taper.

thread pitch isn't overly important as long as you have replacement nuts to match.
 
You also have the option of pattern part oem style arms, just search eBay for civic upper front arm,

Or as said just replace the ball joints as they are about£15 each and fairly simple to change
 
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i didnt think you could change the upper ball joints on the front? i heard of a few guys on honda tech that tried and ended up mushrooming the arms trying to press the old bushes out and refit the new ones?
 
i didnt think you could change the upper ball joints on the front? i heard of a few guys on honda tech that tried and ended up mushrooming the arms trying to press the old bushes out and refit the new ones?

Yes but some people are just rubbish and can't do things properly, If it went in it must come out
 
Cool, do you know the part no.? As these are the only original bushes left on my car and would like to have them fresh with the others.
 
if you're not needing to adjust camber have you thought about simply pressing out the balljoints and replacing them?

I'm pretty sure they press out with a little bit of force and a phone call to a few local motorfactors will locate you a pair of new ball joints, the correct size and taper.

thread pitch isn't overly important as long as you have replacement nuts to match.

I am planning on a few track days next year so i am in the process of re-newing old for new for piece of mind. :drive:

Also i need it done ASAP as im heading to JAE so dont want to risk it not working and being left with a problem! rather in and out :p

Skunk2's bolts don't snap, and they are considerably less than £280

Home - Skunk2 Racing Europe

I originally had them at £220 but a website i was on said £280 :shocked:

You also have the option of pattern part oem style arms, just search eBay for civic upper front arm,

Or as said just replace the ball joints as they are about£15 each and fairly simple to change

Running boost now so want something i can trust when i eventually commit to track days, so its OEM or best aftermarket i can find :secret:


Cheers for all your replies guys, much appreciated! Might have to try out the S2 pro Plus arms :woot:

Will maker sure i pack the boot with extra good quality grease when fitting and report back in the future with conclusions :drive:
 
Miester R camber arm's are meant to be good man, Frodo had some on his old EK and he always rated them.
 
Did u look at the SPC camber arms? I remember hearing that they were rated highly

They were quite prone to cracking the original version being cast, but they have developed a new version from pressed steel. I honestly don't trust a lot of aftermarket parts for track work but have always liked the design and feedback of the hard race item's and that would be my choice or have a look at the new style Eibach SPC's if I'm not imagining they exist.
 
They were quite prone to cracking the original version being cast, but they have developed a new version from pressed steel. I honestly don't trust a lot of aftermarket parts for track work but have always liked the design and feedback of the hard race item's and that would be my choice or have a look at the new style Eibach SPC's if I'm not imagining they exist.

Have heard the hardrace camber adjusters have been prone to hitting the tower/strut under hard compression!

Thats why i was put off the big bolt design :nerv:
 
I have the skunk2 pro front camber arms on my teg.
Taken a fair beating at a few track days now.
No complaints here, bolts are fine, ball joints are fine.
Good bit of kit! Also have there camber adjusters on the rear.
 
I ran the cyberspeed Meister r ones on my old civic and never had an issue with them. I don't trust Allen key bolts to hold my alignment but the big 17mm nuts i trusted and never had a problem with my abuse
 
Have the skunk2 arms on the CRX. They have never moved with me and thats including going off track more than once!
The ball joints are still ok to.
 
I had cyberspeed front camber arms on my old eg6, I believe they are a similar design to the hardrace ones. My car was lowered about 80mm and I had banging of the strut towers and after a while I could see where it was starting to pierce a hole. If I was going for front camber arms again I'd go for a less bulky design, something like skunk2 that would have better clearance. That was on a eg civic maybe the eks have more room.
 
i still think the buddyclubs are a good design, stronger closed top unlike the sk2 ones and can go low without issues. Just change the shitty Allen bolts that come with them and your sorted.
 
i still think the buddyclubs are a good design, stronger closed top unlike the sk2 ones and can go low without issues. Just change the shitty Allen bolts that come with them and your sorted.

Already in talks with Bolt Bolts for high tensile steel replacements :naughty:
 
i still think the buddyclubs are a good design, stronger closed top unlike the sk2 ones and can go low without issues. Just change the shitty Allen bolts that come with them and your sorted.

Buddyclub are just Skunk Tuner series copies.

The ones to go for are Skunk2 Pro Series. The design is far superior.
 
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