She's popped on the Ring :-(


So sorry to hear, I'd be heartbroken :(
Suppose it's a nice excuse for an m3 though!

If you do end up breaking I'd be really interested in some parts
 
if the engine was built by a professional take the engine straight back to him....the parts he supplied may have failed. do not touch the engine or get it inspected by anyone else until the original builder has seen it.
 
I have Honda cars all my life and i really enjoy the Honda NA engine. I know the BMW built good engine too but i don't about their reliability as i have friends said they will never buy a BMW again. Maybe that is due to the weather here which is hot and humid.
 
if the engine was built by a professional take the engine straight back to him....the parts he supplied may have failed. do not touch the engine or get it inspected by anyone else until the original builder has seen it.

100% what I would be doing after spending 7k on an engine!


Sorry to hear that but if you have fell out of love for the car you will prob get more money back after breaking it. E46 M3 would make a fantastic fast road/track car especially for the ring trips and will teach you how drive hopefully
 
if the engine was built by a professional take the engine straight back to him....the parts he supplied may have failed. do not touch the engine or get it inspected by anyone else until the original builder has seen it.

and if a component did fail? is that not allowed in a high performance engine with massive compression and huge cams?

I completely agree with taking it back to Will for an inspection, after this many miles of use though its not shoddy workmanship as some people have suggested thus far
 
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He has had issues from day one though hasn't he. With the metal flakes in the oil and what not.
 
and if a component did fail? is that not allowed in a high performance engine with massive compression and huge cams?

I completely agree with taking it back to Will for an inspection, after this many miles of use though its not shoddy workmanship as some people have suggested thus far

Have you read his build? He has had nothing but problems with this engine so hardly pot luck it happened again! I have a high comp b18c similar to his and if mine goes bang at that mileage I'd do same. Ian If I was you I'd get engine out strip it and with the money you get back put a k20 in it and be done with it
 
Oh man, I was really hoping someone had video'd it? Where were you stood?

It was going well up until that point! Did it sound good? Before it went bang I mean.... Lol



Approx 7000 miles, worked out about a £1 per mile :angry:

I have such a bitter taste with Hondas right now we are selling the EP3 also.

Yeah it sounded great! I was stood by the brew hut getting a tea. I heard you hit the limiter, then there was a pause and huge smoke screen. Someone will have been recording keep an eye on youtube
 
Have you read his build? He has had nothing but problems with this engine so hardly pot luck it happened again! I have a high comp b18c similar to his and if mine goes bang at that mileage I'd do same. Ian If I was you I'd get engine out strip it and with the money you get back put a k20 in it and be done with it

could be something completely unrelated to previous problems...not enough information to start bashing people imo
 
could be something completely unrelated to previous problems...not enough information to start bashing people imo

I'm not bashing anyone at all, I'm just stating the obvious........ Could be an unrelated problem indeed but if it's the same thing I'm sorry to say but it's the builders fault. The parts he has on that car should last 5 or 6 times that or more if mine gives up at that mileage due to parts it'll be broke in bits aswell
 
Didn't J7OO0CK also have an engine built by Will and something went wrong but it was all a bit hushed up?
 
Sorry to hear this Ian, as above if go back to will n see what he is gnna do for you, if it is the case of poor build quality, you have had problems from day one so does seem very likely this is the case, cant blame you for wanting to get rid i would too and go for something that doesn't need thousands spent on it to get good gains etc, you still coming beer fest sat?
 
Sounds very similar. And would make sense as the ignition is cut at limiter but not fuel.

"PRE-IGNITION
The definition of pre-ignition is the ignition of the fuel/air charge prior to the spark plug firing. Pre-ignition caused by some other ignition source such as an overheated spark plug tip, carbon deposits in the combustion chamber and, rarely, a burned exhaust valve; all act as a glow plug to ignite the charge.

Keep in mind the following sequence when analyzing pre-ignition. The charge enters the combustion chamber as the piston reaches BDC for intake; the piston next reverses direction and starts to compress the charge. Since the spark voltage requirements to light the charge increase in proportion with the amount of charge compression; almost anything can ignite the proper fuel/air mixture at BDC!! BDC or before is the easiest time to light that mixture. It becomes progressively more difficult as the pressure starts to build.

A glowing spot somewhere in the chamber is the most likely point for pre-ignition to occur. It is very conceivable that if you have something glowing, like a spark plug tip or a carbon ember, it could ignite the charge while the piston is very early in the compression stoke. The result is understandable; for the entire compression stroke, or a great portion of it, the engine is trying to compress a hot mass of expanded gas. That obviously puts tremendous load on the engine and adds tremendous heat into its parts. Substantial damage occurs very quickly. You can't hear it because there is no rapid pressure rise. This all occurs well before the spark plug fires.

Remember, the spark plug ignites the mixture and a sharp pressure spike occurs after that, when the detonation occurs. That's what you hear. With pre-ignition, the ignition of the charge happens far ahead of the spark plug firing, in my example, very, very far ahead of it when the compression stroke just starts. There is no very rapid pressure spike like with detonation. Instead, it is a tremendous amount of pressure which is present for a very long dwell time, i.e., the entire compression stroke. That's what puts such large loads on the parts. There is no sharp pressure spike to resonate the block and the head to cause any noise. So you never hear it, the engine just blows up! That's why pre-ignition is so insidious. It is hardly detectable before it occurs. When it occurs you only know about it after the fact. It causes a catastrophic failure very quickly because the heat and pressures are so intense.

An engine can live with detonation occurring for considerable periods of time, relatively speaking. There are no engines that will live for any period of time when pre-ignition occurs. When people see broken ring lands they mistakenly blame it on pre-ignition and overlook the hammering from detonation that caused the problem. A hole in the middle of the piston, particularly a melt ed hole in the middle of a piston, is due to the extreme heat and pressure of pre-ignition.

Other signs of pre-ignition are melted spark plugs showing splattered, melted, fused looking porcelain. Many times a "pre-ignited plug" will melt away the ground electrode. What's left will look all spattered and fuzzy looking. The center electrode will be melted and gone and its porcelain will be spattered and melted. This is a typical sign of incipient pre-ignition.

The plug may be getting hot, melting and "getting ready" to act as a pre-ignition source. The plug can actually melt without pre-ignition occurring. However, the melted plug can cause pre-ignition the next time around.

The typical pre-ignition indicator, of course, would be the hole in the piston. This occurs because in trying to compress the already burned mixture the parts soak up a tremendous amount of heat very quickly. The only ones that survive are the ones that have a high thermal inertia, like the cylinder head or cylinder wall. The piston, being aluminum, has a low thermal inertia (aluminum soaks up the heat very rapidly). The crown of the piston is relatively thin, it gets very hot, it can't reject the heat, it has tremendous pressure loads against it and the result is a hole in the middle of the piston where it is weakest.

I want to emphasis that when most people think of pre-ignition they generally accept the fact that the charge was ignited before the spark plug fires. However, I believe they limit their thinking to 5-10 degrees before the spark plug fires. You have to really accept that the most likely point for pre-ignition to occur is 180 degrees BTDC, some 160 degrees before the spark plug would have fired because that's the point (if there is a glowing ember in the chamber) when it's most likely to be ignited. We are talking some 160-180 degrees of bum being compressed that would normally be relatively cool. A piston will only take a few revolutions of that distress before it fails. As for detonation, it can get hammered on for seconds, minutes, or hours depending on the output of the engine and the load, before any damage occurs. Pre-ignition damage is almost instantaneous.

When the piston crown temperature rises rapidly it never has time to get to the skirt and expand and cause it to scuff. It just melts the center right out of the piston. That's the biggest difference between detonation and pre-ignition when looking at piston failures. Without a high pressure spike to resonate the chamber and block, you would never hear pre-ignition. The only sign of pre-ignition is white smoke pouring out the tailpipe and the engine quits running"

And Matt will see you Saturday for a beer :dance:
 
Seen the ek9 crew over the weekend, we're looking good. Gutting hear going to split it :(
 
Drove a tuned 335d m sport Friday wow! Then took a M3 for a spring yesterday, yep mind is made up!
 
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