Sorry I have to ask what would you build!


bosniacrx

bosniacrx

EK9 Member
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Dec 28, 2006
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So, I am sorry guys, but I can not clear my mind, and I have to ask you already asked questions.Blinks, dave, dr drave, stephen and all others, here is the thing:

I got called today from my sponsor, and I had been asked: Why you don't run 11 sec???
So I tried to expane... Well how to explane ?? (look at his question:clap::shocked::clap:). But he continue to talk and told me: Come tomorrow to bild that car. :clap::clap::clap:

I have to have something proposed. To stay NA, I can try to explane that the best thing I can do is to try pull out some 240 HPmand may be run low 13sec, and to go turbo I have to buy recommended (from your experience) things like turbo kit that is really reliable, engine internals, that will insure me on 1,2 or 1, 5 bar boost. But whether I go NA or Turbo, have to stay 1.6, and If I go turbo that must be what he wanted (11 sec). Also It will be clever to buy as much parts as possible that can have both applications (NA or Turbo).

So parts that I have:

1. Mfactory Final drive
2. Fidanza flyweel
3. 1 gall fuel cell
4. Wallbro 255 high pressure fuel pump
5. Fuel cooler
6. Slicks R888
7. Ultralagera rims
8. 3" exhaust
9. Vibrant 4 -2 -1 Header
10. Kayaba + eibach
11. Custom made Password JDM short air intake.
12. NGK iridum 7

From this point on if I choose turbo:

1. Turbo kit
2. Engine internals - Cp pistons or
3. Gauges
4. injectors - rc or sard or accell
5. Throttle b. - Skunk2 or Edlebock - can use it in NA-also
6. Intake - skunk2 or Victor X - can use it in NA-also
7. OIL pan - Moroso - can use it in NA-also
8. Oil cooler - mfactory - can use it in NA-also
9. Electonics - AEM or somehting that I can run on my OBDIIb installation - can use it in NA-also

and so on. You got the point.

Thanks mates!!!!
 
hmm, i'm not really sure what your exact question is, are you asking us if you should go turbo? are you asking for a parts list? the only thing i understand is your sponsor wants you to go faster! is nitrous not an option?
 
I need help to make proposal for turbo and N/A. Personally I would stay N/A, but if he insist on Turbo I have to have list of proven parts. (So That I can achieve what he asks.)

I know what I have to buy, but in your opinion what is the best combination.
eg. Cluchmaster, exedy or ACT ??
RC or ACCEL

That is it. Has anyone bought complete trubo kit guys?
 
bosniacrx said:
I need help to make proposal for turbo and N/A. Personally I would stay N/A, but if he insist on Turbo I have to have list of proven parts. (So That I can achieve what he asks.)

I know what I have to buy, but in your opinion what is the best combination.
eg. Cluchmaster, exedy or ACT ??
RC or ACCEL

That is it. Has anyone bought complete trubo kit guys?
Click to expand...

ok, well Clutchmasters makes better kits in my opinion, RC makes better injectors imo also. turbo kits are not bad but you can usually save a few dollars by piecing together your own. i have some questions:

-is there a budget for na or turbo?
-is there a displacement limit?
-do you have to keep the b16b?
-how much does your car weigh with you in it?
-can you run 24-26" slicks or do you have to be on road tires?
-do you have traction bars already?
-what is your rear and front suspension setup?
-will this car be driven on the road?

also your R888's are not designed for drag, you would have much more success with BFG drag radials.
 
blinx9900 said:
ok, well Clutchmasters makes better kits in my opinion, RC makes better injectors imo also. turbo kits are not bad but you can usually save a few dollars by piecing together your own. i have some questions:

-is there a budget for na or turbo? ---------------- 8000 $
-is there a displacement limit? -------------------- can go to 1.8l
-do you have to keep the b16b? -------------------yes
-how much does your car weigh with you in it? -----900 kg
-can you run 24-26" slicks or do you have to be on road tires? ---must have DOT or E tires (semisliks)
-do you have traction bars already? ---------------- NO
-what is your rear and front suspension setup? ---40/60--Kayabe shocks - Eibach springs
-will this car be driven on the road? ---------------- extremely rare

also your R888's are not designed for drag, you would have much more success with BFG drag radials.
Click to expand...
Thanks
 
you have to stay NA, ok:

first thing first, your gonna need 260whp to do this, so 1.8 is even too small. 2.0 is the way to go, big cams, very high compression(13+), proper suspension etc...

-buy traction bars
-get drag radials (your current tires are road race tires), hopefully the BFG are legal in your class.
-what is your rear spring rate? your gonna need 18kg rear springs, a setup like this has helped a lot of people: Buy PIC Drag - Honda

-can you go to a 2.0? this will require 89mm b18a/b crank, b18a/b forged rods and pistons in your existing block that has to be sleeved to 84mm.
-practice practice practice!! its a shame you cant at least squeeze some N2O...
 
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Stephen, Blinx, guys I really appreciate your help. Here are the details: My sponsor said that he more like to see me on the track all the time then to blow 1.6 engine by turbo making big boost. So we agreed for me to go all motor and to achieve 12.5 so that I can stay in 13 sec class. Turbo setup will go to D series ZC1 engine from CRX 87, next year, if he stays head of company. :)

Even if I don't like to go over 1.6l seems that it is inevitable, and I think with stroker kit of 1.8 this 12.5 sec could be possible.
Yesterday I got Vibrant 4-2-1 header (j-spec) which looks great, but will it work?
If you have any suggestions of parts that I should or should not buy please post, It would be shame to spend his money on something that does not work.
 
you should run a velocity stack intake that shoots out the front headlight :nice: they look funny but they actually make power! also when it comes to drag racing NA and Turbo are both going to be under the same stress imo. also something my tuner taught be a while back, give the front wheels a tiny bit of negative camber because as the car launghes it tilts back and the front wheels camber go positive. i can ask him for some advice for you, he used to be really big into drag racing...
 
I taught 4 major changes can do this job but as I never used them, I don't know how they will perform and that is why I ask for the opinions.

1. RC 440 cci
2. Toda or Spoon stroker kit to 1.8
3. P28 with S300
4. TWM ITB
5. Tyres

and to tune this up, including negative camber as you said. I would take Toda header also if I dont spend all money, cause everywhere Toda header give great gains.

I have: walbro, vibrant, and custom intake.
 

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dont buy the TODA header if you already have the vibrant, if your going to buy another header i would get an ANR side exit :: AN-R.com :: B-Series Headers but your current header is fine, also, do you have to run exhaust? most NA guys i see run open header at the track. anyhow, you have a lot of stuff you can do, the way it sits now the engine is nearly stock. ITB is good choice but why not get cams first? or stroke it first? buy parts you can use now and see what they do.
 
cool ANR brother!!! I have to run exhaust, and muffler too. It can be cat free.
I will not buy Toda or ANR if you think that gains will not be great.

As for stroker kit:

JUN: 3800$
Spoon: 1800$
Toda: 2400 $
Brian Crower Stroker Kit (Econo Rods) Honda B16A : 2200$

I wish I could find some dyno about this stroker kits, hope someone here has the experience.
See the difference in $. Lots of stuff can be taken if choose properly.
 
JUN: 3800$ <----overpriced
Spoon: 1800$ <---- stock parts in the end, not bad for a street car though
Toda: 2400 $ <-----also over priced
Brian Crower Stroker Kit (Econo Rods) Honda B16A : 2200$ <-----you need to use the b18c kit and still your limited to about 8000rpm redline.

your forgetting about the custom stroker kit ;)

-b18a/b 89mm crank ($100) plus b18a/b forged eagle rods ($300) plus 81.5mm forged pistons ($500), spend $100 to get the crank fully balanced, $100 for new bearings, and you have a 1857cc engine with forged internals for $1100 the rest of the money can go to installation and balancing.

Or if you want to get a little crazier you can do all that but instead of using 81.5mm pistons have the block sleeved to 84.5mm ($1000) and use 84.5mm RS Machine pistons ($150) then you end up with 1996cc engine for $1750 or opt for forged 84.5mm pistons and your at about $2100 total!

this set up is good for 9000rpm all day long as long as the crank is balanced.
 
spending money on a new header would be a complete waste, the vibrant header is VERY good, the only thing i would imagine if you feel it becomes restrictive you can always have the collector enlarged to 3" to match your exhaust system :nice:
 
Well I am in very specific environment, and balancing is travel job of 1000 km, to Slovenia. That is why I excluded custom stroker kit, although I was thinking of leaving crank and replace pistons, rings, bearings, rods to lightest and strongest available.

Point is I have to buy everything, put everything and drive to Croatia on dyno. Stay a couple of days, trying to tune on S300 and post the dyno graph here.

So I will leave Crower kit on the list.

That is good news for me about Vibrant!
 
how far do you have to drive to get to the dyno? if machine work is very far away from you i would recomend you find 1 place to do it all 1 time so you dont have to worry about it.
 
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