Black DC2 UKDM
- Thread starter Mr Ry
- Start date
Thanks for that, will be getting some soonwas 1litre enough for you to do all mounts?
Well i've yet to do my other two torque mounts, and I just have over half left. Bearing in mind that the lower gearbox mount has much more depth than the other two torque mounts, I think it should be about right, but will be able to confirm next month
There's quite a few turbocharged ITR's around now - if you have a full B18C6 engine, then you will find you will be safe upto the 320bhp mark, maybe a tad more. Past 350bhp and the conrods start to bend apparently (weakest link) so you're then in the realms of new rods and pistons, larger clearances, etc.
I'm running anywhere between 220bhp and 240bhp, at 7psi. I'm not even running proper low-boost and it's good fun, but before I go for a proper tune I want to make sure everything else is up to scratch first. (brakes, suspension+geo, ignition, cooling).
Thanks guys. I should have some more updates soon. Removed 5.2kg of sound deadening the other day, along with removing the rear ariel alongside the wiper.
Just waiting on my bloody bushes to be pressed in... Really want my suspension sorting ASAP so I can drive it properly as it needs alignment even as it is quite badly.
Just waiting on my bloody bushes to be pressed in... Really want my suspension sorting ASAP so I can drive it properly as it needs alignment even as it is quite badly.
Hey guys, I keep coming onto the forum to check out some of the builds and the for sale sections, so thought it was time to update my thread.
Small update. Thought I would post this up before the larger jobs commence over the coming days and weeks so I can keep everything up to date.
Lovely scratch from god knows who. Also have a knock on the rear bumper with one of the fittings broken. This was when it was dirty, looks worse when clean.
And onto the positive...
Old steering wheel off, new boss fitted:
New wheel on:
New AEM air filter tucked in there:
New 16 row oil cooler and Mocal Thermostatic Sandwich Plate.
Just need some stainless lines making up with 1/2 BSP connections then I can rock out on track without fear of hitting anywhere near 150c hopefully!
I also stuck in some new cooler spark plugs and Magnecor KV85 ignition leads.
----------------------------
Small update: Had a go at the rear suspension setup.
Starting taking the arms and wishbones off. Look at that lovely rusty chassis rail.
Cue plenty of snapped bolts from removing the rear LCA's.
Long story short, replaced the following arms with uprated Hardrace bushes:
2x LCA's + new Honda bolts
2x UCA's
2x Mugen Gold 5-ways with new Honda damper bolts
2x rear Hardrace ARB D link bushes and new honda bolts for the Hardrace ARB droplinks.
Painted the d link bush holders, tie bar and ARB itself.
Rust treated and painted the chassis rail.
re-painted the rear callipers
The only things I've not changed are the rear compensator arms as they will need cutting off and replacing, and I have some fresh new Honda bolts for these too. Thanks to Matt for popping over and providing a much needed bolt and a general hand one evening as the LCA's just wouldn't fit back in straight. Gave me that extra oomph to crack on with the rest of the job as it's not the most fun job to do.
So the rear is nearly there suspension wise.
Then I broke my left index finger and may lose my nail due to jumping out the car too quickly and not moving my hand out the way quick enough from the closing door. Very annoying. Reason being I couldn't get into gear and didn't want to be late for work... Silly me. Regardless, the amount of air in my clutch system was insane - I have a leak somewhere, but it must of been brought to light from the car sitting at a high angle (nose down) for a while. All is well for now and I can select gears again.
So with one hand I'm limited, but managed to get my bumper off on Sunday:
Got the hacksaw out and DIY'd it to promote more air flow into the engine bay and onto the rad. Nothing clean but not bad for a one handed job. Less subtle and not as much to my taste but needs must.
So that's it for now.
Oh and this is what £45 looks like in Honda rip-off-price bolts
-----------------------------------
Soooo finally fitted the new front fork, had the rear compensator arms fitted as I generallty didn't want to tackle it without ramps and gave it to a local company to sort the geo and tracking out.
It now handles fantastic. Much tighter and much easy to feed the throttle to control the backend - Dampers are on a softer setting on the rear and I may make them softer all round as currently they are bumpy as hell, but the damper and spring re-bound is amazingly controlled and precise. Really rate Mugen coilovers for what they are and how little they cost.
Small update. Thought I would post this up before the larger jobs commence over the coming days and weeks so I can keep everything up to date.
Lovely scratch from god knows who. Also have a knock on the rear bumper with one of the fittings broken. This was when it was dirty, looks worse when clean.
And onto the positive...
Old steering wheel off, new boss fitted:
New wheel on:
New AEM air filter tucked in there:
New 16 row oil cooler and Mocal Thermostatic Sandwich Plate.
Just need some stainless lines making up with 1/2 BSP connections then I can rock out on track without fear of hitting anywhere near 150c hopefully!
I also stuck in some new cooler spark plugs and Magnecor KV85 ignition leads.
----------------------------
Small update: Had a go at the rear suspension setup.
Starting taking the arms and wishbones off. Look at that lovely rusty chassis rail.
Cue plenty of snapped bolts from removing the rear LCA's.
Long story short, replaced the following arms with uprated Hardrace bushes:
2x LCA's + new Honda bolts
2x UCA's
2x Mugen Gold 5-ways with new Honda damper bolts
2x rear Hardrace ARB D link bushes and new honda bolts for the Hardrace ARB droplinks.
Painted the d link bush holders, tie bar and ARB itself.
Rust treated and painted the chassis rail.
re-painted the rear callipers
The only things I've not changed are the rear compensator arms as they will need cutting off and replacing, and I have some fresh new Honda bolts for these too. Thanks to Matt for popping over and providing a much needed bolt and a general hand one evening as the LCA's just wouldn't fit back in straight. Gave me that extra oomph to crack on with the rest of the job as it's not the most fun job to do.
So the rear is nearly there suspension wise.
Then I broke my left index finger and may lose my nail due to jumping out the car too quickly and not moving my hand out the way quick enough from the closing door. Very annoying. Reason being I couldn't get into gear and didn't want to be late for work... Silly me. Regardless, the amount of air in my clutch system was insane - I have a leak somewhere, but it must of been brought to light from the car sitting at a high angle (nose down) for a while. All is well for now and I can select gears again.
So with one hand I'm limited, but managed to get my bumper off on Sunday:
Got the hacksaw out and DIY'd it to promote more air flow into the engine bay and onto the rad. Nothing clean but not bad for a one handed job. Less subtle and not as much to my taste but needs must.
So that's it for now.
Oh and this is what £45 looks like in Honda rip-off-price bolts
-----------------------------------
Soooo finally fitted the new front fork, had the rear compensator arms fitted as I generallty didn't want to tackle it without ramps and gave it to a local company to sort the geo and tracking out.
It now handles fantastic. Much tighter and much easy to feed the throttle to control the backend - Dampers are on a softer setting on the rear and I may make them softer all round as currently they are bumpy as hell, but the damper and spring re-bound is amazingly controlled and precise. Really rate Mugen coilovers for what they are and how little they cost.
Recently popped over to see Will @ RDT on Saturday for a pre-dyno inspection and to pick up my S300 v2 that he supplied and socketed for me. Then decided to do a baseline dyno run as well so we have something to compare to when it goes back for a re-tune on Hondata.
What can I say about Will and the RDT business setup? Fantastic service and great value for money. After a chat he went through various checks on the Integra including a pin-hole style camera to view the condition of the bores which did show some minor detonation has occurred since the turbo has been installed. Compression test was ran just before this and the results came back as:
210
200
200
210
Which is better than I was expecting, nothing wildly out.
All spark plugs were burning really well. Pressurising the water system highlighted a leak from one of the turbo water lines that goes into the back of the block.
A few other little things to sort as well from the inspection, but there more a bunch of niggles than anything else so I should be sorted to have my tune booked in and done by the end of the month.
My head could literally explode with the amount of information Will has provided me with though. He knows what he's talking about and can explain things on the right level as he is a genuinely knowledgeable person. Also, his business morals are on such an honest level as well â you rarely get this these days.
He gave me the time of day to discuss all of my aims and has also taken the time with me to come to the best solution short-term which is really good.
Anyway, enough bumming â he's not mapped my car yet.
Right so the below graphs are based on a road-tuned Crome Pro map, with the only change since the map being that the ignition timing is running ever so slightly retarded (just a touch, due to the old crank pulley having a chip in it where the timing marks were so had to run a couple of mm retarded from when it was tuned)
So here's my AFR and boost pressure from the baseline test we ran.. take note that max boost is 6.2 psi, but IIRC the average peak boost from all the runs was around 6 psi. Make of the AFR what you will :shock:
Once or twice Will thought he could physically hear what sounded like detonation around 7000rpm the first time and 7800rpm the next time. And here's the power and torque at the hubs:
Briefly got onto the subject of Nez's engine that Will built, and he overlaid the graph of his to mine as a comparison and needless to say, I'd take Nez's N/A engine over my current turbo setup any day of the week. it looked absolutely epic! Nez's graph is in his thread anyway as a comparison.
The power delivery it showed was what I expected and felt the car to be in real life. The torque curve is nowhere near as great as I'd like it to be.
As a rough (I say rough, this is comparing three different dynos of which one is a hub dyno) guideline to how my HP figures have changed, he's a brief run down:
With original B18c6 bottom end before it blew up:
60hp @ 3000
80hp @ 4000
100hp @ 5000
120hp @ 6000
160hp @ 7000
180hp @ 8000
187hp @ 8600
With B18C4 bottom end:
60hp @ 3000
75hp @ 4000
91hp @ 5000
112hp @ 6000
150hp @ 7000
166hp @ 8000
175hp @ 8600
And then this is with the the turbo kit, mapped on Crome running 6psi based on HUB figures and not BHP as above so add to it what you will, but hopefully it gives a good idea of where extra powered is along the range:
55hp @ 3000
92hp @ 4000
125hp @ 5000
153hp @ 6000
196hp @ 7000
205hp @ 8000
208hp @ 8600
Anyway, that's enough for now. I've got some stuff to source and a car to drive carefully until the remap...
Ry
What can I say about Will and the RDT business setup? Fantastic service and great value for money. After a chat he went through various checks on the Integra including a pin-hole style camera to view the condition of the bores which did show some minor detonation has occurred since the turbo has been installed. Compression test was ran just before this and the results came back as:
210
200
200
210
Which is better than I was expecting, nothing wildly out.
All spark plugs were burning really well. Pressurising the water system highlighted a leak from one of the turbo water lines that goes into the back of the block.
A few other little things to sort as well from the inspection, but there more a bunch of niggles than anything else so I should be sorted to have my tune booked in and done by the end of the month.
My head could literally explode with the amount of information Will has provided me with though. He knows what he's talking about and can explain things on the right level as he is a genuinely knowledgeable person. Also, his business morals are on such an honest level as well â you rarely get this these days.
He gave me the time of day to discuss all of my aims and has also taken the time with me to come to the best solution short-term which is really good.
Anyway, enough bumming â he's not mapped my car yet.
Right so the below graphs are based on a road-tuned Crome Pro map, with the only change since the map being that the ignition timing is running ever so slightly retarded (just a touch, due to the old crank pulley having a chip in it where the timing marks were so had to run a couple of mm retarded from when it was tuned)
So here's my AFR and boost pressure from the baseline test we ran.. take note that max boost is 6.2 psi, but IIRC the average peak boost from all the runs was around 6 psi. Make of the AFR what you will :shock:
Once or twice Will thought he could physically hear what sounded like detonation around 7000rpm the first time and 7800rpm the next time. And here's the power and torque at the hubs:
Briefly got onto the subject of Nez's engine that Will built, and he overlaid the graph of his to mine as a comparison and needless to say, I'd take Nez's N/A engine over my current turbo setup any day of the week. it looked absolutely epic! Nez's graph is in his thread anyway as a comparison.
The power delivery it showed was what I expected and felt the car to be in real life. The torque curve is nowhere near as great as I'd like it to be.
As a rough (I say rough, this is comparing three different dynos of which one is a hub dyno) guideline to how my HP figures have changed, he's a brief run down:
With original B18c6 bottom end before it blew up:
60hp @ 3000
80hp @ 4000
100hp @ 5000
120hp @ 6000
160hp @ 7000
180hp @ 8000
187hp @ 8600
With B18C4 bottom end:
60hp @ 3000
75hp @ 4000
91hp @ 5000
112hp @ 6000
150hp @ 7000
166hp @ 8000
175hp @ 8600
And then this is with the the turbo kit, mapped on Crome running 6psi based on HUB figures and not BHP as above so add to it what you will, but hopefully it gives a good idea of where extra powered is along the range:
55hp @ 3000
92hp @ 4000
125hp @ 5000
153hp @ 6000
196hp @ 7000
205hp @ 8000
208hp @ 8600
Anyway, that's enough for now. I've got some stuff to source and a car to drive carefully until the remap...
Ry