I gave up on this thread so long ago, we talked about everything, there should be no further questions if it has been read in its entirety, if we left something out, i did my part, time for others to chime in with market specifics.
ive read how all props are the same, but they r not... dx ex si on the props all have different numbers stamped on them, they also all have different prices, part numbers and so on... if u think there the same than thats up to u but i can show u 3 different props from 3 different cars and they are DIFFERENT. if ur going to spend all this money doing a convert just change it.
don't mean to bust your balls obieone...but even though they are different prices and different stamps on it...as long as the the prop valve belonged to a 4 disc brake setup, it doesn't make a difference. People think that there's a difference between:
4 lug: disc/brake
4 lug: disc
5 lug: disc
I'm pretty sure there is something different about them, but you would have to be the most **** being on this earth to feel that difference.
In the States we have a little more experience with 5 lug swaps because it's not that easy to register a 9 in California, so we end up doing conversions with our hatches here.
I've went from disc/drums to 4 lug disc (integra gsr) to American itr 5 lug (32mm hubs)
and I've changed my prop valve every time. So even though I'm rocking the correct prop valve, it actually wouldn't have made a difference if I just stuck with the 4 lug disc brake prop valve.
yo guys , i cant upgrade to dc2 brakes cz of my 15'' rims so i was suggested to make my brakes as good as they can be i got the ej9 '99 civic facelift with 262mm discs , well listen to this when i purchased the car the brakes sucked a lot :/ it had drums , i was pressing the braking and the stopping was very bad , i changed the drums to vti rear discs and it stops a little , very little better , it has ABS , u think its the proportioning valve ? i told my mechanic now that we have bought the b18c conversion to transfer the master cylinder + servo+ the prop valve from the b18c and install new pads and a brake stopper , u think its gonna work ? i test my father's car ( civic sedan '4 ES5 1.6 vtec 110 bhp) and my old man got very good brake , when u press it your head is going forward it stops very suddenly and its great, when i brake is like sitting on the beach enjoying the sun pfffff i m so desperate and out of money for many options ((
well look at this , i took the conversion to rear discs to honda enginneers, they kept the car for 5 days and when they gave it it sucked they didnt bleed properly, the bleed only the rear riscs as a result to press the pedal 4 times to start braking and i took it with risk of my life to other side of town to a mechanic and bleed it correct heheh so the car got no problem of bleeding atm
the problem also is that to start to braking i have to press the pedal very deep , (got already good bleeding) and if i press it much ABS is activated , now i was wondering if i reduce the distance of the pedal to start braking like every body say with a brake booster i can achieve that , the abs wont activate in that distance ?
i got a pickle for you canadian civic se? lol that was new to me when i bought it it seems just to be the same as a dx with discs in front drums out back, and a y7. Anyways from wha im getting here i or anyone switching from rear drums to rear discs has to switch the prop valve to a 40/40...drums do require more force to stop so if you put discs in place of drums and leave prop valve the rear end will lock up quick time.