Calling the photographers out there..


thunderboy

EK9 Driver
Donator
Joined
Jan 7, 2009
Messages
364
Hi Guys,

I was on my way out to Russia - and a picked up this on the way through duty free...

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Nikon-D3200-Digital-Camera-18-55mm/dp/B007VBGTX8

91c-hHhsafL._SL1500_.jpg




So it turns out its much more complicated than my last point and shoot camera.. so any tips on how to take good pictures would be welcomed..

I've taken the following shots out of the hotel window so far, but plan on sight seeing over the weekend whilst in Moscow & would love to get to grips with this camera to get some good shots..

DSC_0045.jpg


DSC_0015.jpg









Thanks...
 
Stick it in auto for time being, read some mags and do some homework.

I managed to get into manual mode nearly all the time now and if I am ever unsure I check the situation with auto mode to get a base setting.

Def do some home work.
 
Nikon cameras are very nice if you know how to use a SLR/DSLR. Many things go into setting up the camera. Auto mode may be where you need to stay until you read up on it.

Great camera tho! I have a Nikon as well and LOVE it. But I've been shooting with SLR/DSLR for over 29 years...

Take a quick read here. May help a tad or get you started in the right direction.
dSLR Settings & Shortcuts For Dummies Cheat Sheet - For Dummies
 
Basically, as long as you sit down and get your head around shutter speed, aperture and ISO settings, the rest is up to your creativity and sense of aesthetics. :)

It´ll take a little time, use it in auto mode for now, so you don´t ruin any moments. When you understand the manual mode, the shutter priority and aperture priority modes get a lot more useful as well. If you´re planning to stick with auto mode, buy a point-and-shoot instead. :D
 
It depends on what you want from the camera tbh. Will you be spending much time editing the pictures after? If so, it's always better to shoot in RAW, as you get loads of options that make editing easy. I know that for my Canon, if I shoot in auto mode, the pic is saved as a JPEG file and not RAW.

Best thing to do is practice tbh. When I first got the camera, I spent ages reading up on stuff but that can only go so far.

This site is based for car photography, but it shows you the basics pretty well, it's what i used Car Photography Tutorials - A CHRONOLOGICAL OVERVIEW OF ALL OUR TUTORIALS
 
Get a book about photography, read the manual and mainly - shoot away! I have been shooting DSLR for about 4 years now and I am still learning, got a D7000 and I absolutely love it! Be warned tho, it can turn into a very expensive hobby :D
Unlike above I would discourage you from using the auto settings. You may have well sticked with a point and shoot if you want the camera to sort everything out for yourself and give an OK result. Aside from the auto there should be 4 main settings: P, S, A, M.
M is fully manual, which I think you can leave for now. It is handy when you need total control over the exposure etc, or when you shoot a series of photographs and you need them to be all the same (like in case of time lapse videos)
P is what I would suggest you start with. It calculates the correct shutter speed and aperture for the given settings and light. It allows you to change ISO (low ISO = good quality, but needs a lot of light, high ISO = picture quality gets worse but allows you to take sharper pictures when it gets a bit darker - like indoors...), you can also adjust your flash and all other settings.
A is my favorite, it is so called Aperture Priority and it lets you choose your preferred aperture, shutter speed is calculated automatically for you. Aperture has a great deal of affect on what you picture will look like. The 18-55 kit lens you probably got with your camera will have minimum aperture f3.5 at the wide end and f5.6 at the zoom end. The lower the f number the more light can pass through the lens per unit time. This means that at f3.5 you can use faster shutter speed than you could at f5.6. So in low light you want your f number to be as low as possible. High f number on the other hand increases you depth of field, so you get more stuff in the picture in focus. Just turn the dial to A, leave the aperture at f3.5, take a picture of some close object and look at the background. Then take the same picture with f16 - the picture may be blurrier because your shutter speed was slower, but you should be able to see the difference in the depth of field - that background will be a lot more in focus now.
Finally S is your Shutter Speed priority setting. It allows you to adjust the shutter speed while the correct aperture is calculated for you. Shutter speed is measured in seconds and fast shutter speeds (eg 1/1000) are good for taking sharp pictures (hand shake will have less of an effect because the shutter is only open for a very brief period of time), and for freezing motion, while slower shutter speeds can be used to generate "motion blur". This is popular in motorsport where you can track the movement of the car, and have the background blurred. It can also be used when you take pictures of running water like I did with the picture below.
There is a lot to learn when it comes to photography, but it is a very rewarding hobby!

523859_3299422855361_975506342_n.jpg
 
BTW, since you started with pictures from Russia, this is yet another example of motion blur picture - a taxi in St. Petersburg. The picture was taken with my D7000 and 30 years old 50mm manual focus lens!

8743_3771476416405_1069437833_n.jpg
 
I found this little gem on my travels today..

DSC_0135.jpg


Its gotta struggle to put the turbo power down with those wide rims... ;)
 
Turbo badge adds 5hp! We all know that its tuning 101
 
Just as other people have mentioned, just take your time to learn about exposure, don't get too hung up about camera settings though, its better to look with your eyes not the camera and make your rough judgements depending on the lighting conditions. Always bear in mind that the camera does not see like a human eye sees. We see far more differences in light than a digital sensor so the camera can only record so much variation in the light so you may find in high contrast situations you will lose the detail in the brightest and possibly the darkest areas too. The camera makes a judgement on its exposure by thinking everything in the scene is an 18% grey tone so will try its best to expose for that tone.

Your camera probably just came with the standard 18-55mm kit lens, if there's one extra lens you should buy make it a 50mm f1.8. These are amongst the cheapest and best lenses you can buy. Depending on the make its likely to cost around £70-150. With a max aperture of 1.8 they are ideal for low light, allowing you to use faster shutter speeds in low light without increasing your ISO too much. The wide aperture is also ideal for isolating your subject and allows you to be creative with selective focusing. Its an ideal little portrait lens, ideal for shooting cars and documentary style photography. Its a fixed focal length obviously but that makes you think about your framing and composition more, and that's what photography is about!
 
Back
Top