Claying VTEC lobe


Carl1991

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Jul 17, 2010
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Hi guys as the title states i am in the process of claying my high comp b18c motor. I am running wiseco 12.5-13.1 comp pistons with S2 Stage 2 cams and dialing them in with AEM's tru-time adjustable cam gears. Just wondering how you guys clay the VTEC cam lobe ? Do you lock it up or just measure it ?

Any input would be great.

Cheers.
 
lock out the rockers so vtec is engaged, stick a bit on the valve recesses, bolt head on and check clearances...then do cam swings plus or minus 4 degrees on each cam repeating the process - the clay each time can be measured to get your clearance
 
lock out the rockers so vtec is engaged, stick a bit on the valve recesses, bolt head on and check clearances...then do cam swings plus or minus 4 degrees on each cam repeating the process - the clay each time can be measured to get your clearance

how do you lock the rockers?
 
use compressed air around 50 psi should do it in the vtec test hole on the head to right of vtec solenoid above the manifold
 
Does anyone have pics of this being done ? I always thought about measuring up a drill bit, cutting and using that to lock the cams. I clayed it just on the normal lobe and found a have quite alot more room than i expected, had around 7-8mm gap.
 
theres a much simpler way to lock the rocker.

the vtec system has 3 rockers, and inside it it has 3 sliding pins, actuated by oil pressure.
all you do is whilst assembling the rockers, switch the 2 pins around. so switch the centre rocker which has the longest pin with one of the side rockers which has a smaller pin.

you only have to do it to 1 cylinder, as the clearance will be the same across the board
 
use compressed air around 50 psi should do it in the vtec test hole on the head to right of vtec solenoid above the manifold

Rarely works on heads with more than 50k+ miles on the clock!

Does anyone have pics of this being done ? ...

Yes on here somwhere.

S2 cams only give you the mid rocker as a datum, you need to switch the slider pins around on cylinder 1 as import_trung noted. You should also use low pressure springs and dial the cams in as close as possible with the head off of the engine. Then you cannot possible be a mile out when you put the head on the engine and dont risk bending valve, otherwise its too easily done! Some companies like JUN, TODA & Piper give all three datums (Primary, MID and secondary) so this saves dialling in the cams with protractor on the bench, you simply set the rockers up normally, dial in with 1mm lift specs on primary or secondary, then strip the engine once more, get the belts/cams off and the rockers, swap the rockers pins then re-assemble. And dial in on the MID (vtec) datum for ultimate accuracy.
On the bench if your unsure you can perform a leakdown test before/after dialing them in. Also be sure to centre-mark the piston at true-TDC with a custom made 'punch', I have an old cutting guide from the machine shop turned to a point for the b and k series - if the piston to valve clearance isnt to your requirements then you can have the valve reliefs machined at your local machine shop to maintain suitable clearance with your selected cams. This reference point is important though.

Remember to adhere to the cam manufacturers cam to rocker clearances for accuracy and ALWAYS check for spring-bind, correct installed height vs. uncompressed height.

one other quite important check is the cam housing ID (all of them) against the cam diameter, this is because somtimes you have to have the cam housings honed for the aftermarket cams. Especially with chillcasts like S2 which are much much weaker than factory steel and some aftermarket maufacturers cams
 
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