Cold air... is it important for your N/A motor?


This reminds me of how even human lungs work in different temperature air. Kenyan runners are always winning the US marathons, when I asked someone why they said it was because they are running great distances in the HOT, less oxygen air in kenya and are used to it. When they run in the colder US marathons, they can just use that colder air as a benefit, and if its a hot day, they are used to utilizing that climate for running while US runners are at a disadvantage.
Moral of the story is- Make sure you're intake has a cold air source!
 
haha, it's also called free power... according to HONDA builders book, if I can remember, air consists of 70%+ nitrogen, 20%+ oxygen and 1% other gases. The hotter the air gets, the less amount of oxygen per volume. Remember that oxygen has mass. This is crucial info for N/A tuning. i will write up exactly whats writen from that book later.

Force induction isn't as sensitive with temp than N/A because it's compressing air.

B16B makes 136kw or 185PS but most people don't realise that air temperature and octane rating can really reduce that figure. Rememher that B16B was made for JDM so it's figures are based on 100 octane.
 
The air that we breathe is approx 78% nitrogen and only 21% oxygen(the remaining 1% is other trace gases).
Oxygen molecules are the ones that combine rapidly with the molecules of the fuel to create heat and raise the pressure in the combustion chamber to make power. NITROGEN DOESN'T BURN, but it sure takes up a lot of space in the intake manifold and combustion chambers. In addition, don't forget the humidity, i.e. water vapor suspended in the intake air.

For every 11 degrees F that you lower the intake temperature, you're rewarded with approx a 1% increase in horsepower. Therefore, if your underhood temperatures are in the 165 degree F(73 degrees C) range and it's 80 degrees F(26 degrees C) outside , you'll get a 7.7% increase by ducting cool air to the intake. If your running 100hp, then that turns to 107.7hp.

This is the amount of power your loosing from stock intake from manufacturers stated power figures, if you were ducting engine bay hot air.

This is why, pod filter in engine bay isn't recommeded unless it is ducting cold air... which would be a better system than the stock intake.

A short ram air intake with pod filter is pretty much a free flowing intake system opposed to the restrictive stock intake where there are many bends and un-smooth surfaces which will promote DRAG. But if it's sucking hot air then it's pretty useless.
 
My cold air intake system by far is the best mod i have done to my motor!

Click on the thumbnail for the big size photo:nerv:
 

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jugbugz said:
oh, I just weighed the flywheel the other day and it's actually 5.7kgs from my digital scale. My mechanic has just changed it during the front knuckle change and he said it was significantly lighter than stock. So this should be promising!!! :D
Click to expand...

im running act prolite flywheel which is about 3.5kg, takes little getting used to for daily driver but im used to it now but the one you have is much better suited to daily driver, if i knew then what i know now id have gone for the 1 you got or probably just a stock itr/ek9 flywheel

the lighter flywheels help throttle response allows engine to rev that little bit quicker

can anyone confirm if they loose you little torque low down though ? mine felt like it did at the time
 
iceman said:
im running act prolite flywheel which is about 3.5kg, takes little getting used to for daily driver but im used to it now but the one you have is much better suited to daily driver, if i knew then what i know now id have gone for the 1 you got or probably just a stock itr/ek9 flywheel

the lighter flywheels help throttle response allows engine to rev that little bit quicker

can anyone confirm if they loose you little torque low down though ? mine felt like it did at the time
Click to expand...

My mechanic told me these, and thats why I'm not running now right now :nerv:
 
iceman said:
im running act prolite flywheel which is about 3.5kg, takes little getting used to for daily driver but im used to it now but the one you have is much better suited to daily driver, if i knew then what i know now id have gone for the 1 you got or probably just a stock itr/ek9 flywheel

the lighter flywheels help throttle response allows engine to rev that little bit quicker

can anyone confirm if they loose you little torque low down though ? mine felt like it did at the time
Click to expand...

WTH? 3.5kgs?! TODA and SPOON only make up to 4.1kgs! LOL Man I wonder what that would feel like... I heard you do loose lower end and mid range and only do good in top end...

I'd get it changed to the one i'm using on the next clutch job if i were you...

Oh yeah, I thought I'd share this discovery I've found on my younder brothers 2007 FN2 CTR, I noticed that on every gear change, once you release the clutch, the engine seems to over-rev about 300rpm from the shift point and hold it up there for about 0.5-1 secs until you engage the clutch again in gear. So no matter how slow you shift, you never run out of revs... it must already have a lighter flywheel otherwise I wouldn't know why it does that all the time. Not my foots fault either...

Also there seems to have some kind of safety feature on the clutch... it feels like some mechanical feature that stops you from damaging the gearbox from dropping the clutch on hard shifts... it kinda feels like it engages itself at the frcition point... I know BMW has this feature...

Does anyone know about this?
 
thats why when i shift i take my foot off the gas a little slower, it keeps the revs up :nice:
 
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