Crazyjetsfan22's EJ9 Kswap build thread.


Sorry for Cell phone pics again forgot my camera again. Try and get real shots this weekend!

Mugen wing finally back and put on.
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Need to clean the old glue off the badge and found some good adhesive to mount it on there so it doesn’t fall off. 3rd brake light works too!

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Friend got in some new tools that we will be using on my car soon!

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While my car is at my friends shop for a bit we took some time to roll my fenders
You can also see the black full race traction bars I never got a pic of.
Bumper is off so the bumper and lip would not get ruined on the trailer. So will have to put and align that again in the future.
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Pics a little blurry but I like the way the tire to fender looks. This is an after shot can see a slight little pull on the fenders.

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Passenger side before
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Can see how stiff the rear suspension is

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Better shot of the full race bar


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Some progress shots of the rolling!


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Pic of what the rear wheel well looks like before


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How the inside looks after some rolling. Not fully done in the pics



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Back on all fours done!


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Some better pics of the mugen wing now that I have my camera
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Mugen badge on now. Used some really good automotive glue that my friend uses often
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Really like how the exterior is turning out!
Need to raise the rear a bit to match the fronts height. Trying to have it slightly lower yet functional.
The fenders being rolled will help get the height and camber specs I want and wont have the fenders get screwed up from the large tires! Also they allow for me to possibly run some more aggressive wheels in the future. ;)
I still need to get an alignment done which might just wait till spring.
OEM window visors and my CTR side views need to be installed as well and exterior is pretty much done.

Now onto some interior shots
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Shot I liked of the horn button through the recaro harness hole
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On to some pictures of the wheels! Stole the pics from blazed bc i am lazy and have had time to snap pics of my own! (hope you dont mind) and thanks again for being patient with me on buying them)

They are the closer set!
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I have only seen a pair of 16x7 +25's besides these!
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My Cell phone pics
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Valve cover is decent amount darker
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Really cant wait to put these on! The plan is to have the Ce28's for a shot time and sell or trade them for something else and then put these on.
 
Rolled the car out side to snap some pics. Car is still covered in dust and dirt needs to be washed so bad.


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Really like the rear shot with the comptech and F7 LCA just missing the hytech exhuast still.
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Took some bay shots. Still need to put my bronze valve cover on but i havent yet bc i might add something to it just have to look into it more.
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Sunsetting
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Well I finally got some time to throw the se37k’s on to see how the fitment was.
After test fitting them I know for a fact I will need to put 205/45 on these not a chance 215 will fit.


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The back spacing on these are redic
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Rear
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Found a random craigslist posting for some 15x8 5lug wheels for a deal! I was unsure on the back spacing if it was right to fit over the calipers. I was going to use these for some slick.


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Well to bad they don’t fit with out spacers. Prob need a 10-15mm spacer on these. Which means I need extended studs….which means I need to get open ended lugs nuts and redo my wheel bearings which are brand new. So I think I am going to just re sell them
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Most recent update for you guys.

Started to take the interior back apart so I could get the roll bar all set.

Since I have been helping my friend strip his EG hatch for his new paint job and set up I was in the mood to take out some sound deadening. I always said I never would do it but since it was so cold out during this time the sound deadening came up with just a few hits of a mallet

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The roll bar was in some rough shape so I brought it down to bare metal so I could get it ready for the painter.
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I still need to get plates made for underside of the cage and get some hardware. Once that is taken care of I will drill the holes and then I need to cut a hole in the rear quarter plastic.



It always bothered me that my rear lip was a rep. I could never find one for a decent price locally and then I came across one randomly. Also got a CTR rear bumper with it that I have no need for.
Need to get some paint and drop the rear lip and driver side mirror to get painted.
Has a little burn from old owners exhaust.
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OEM FTW
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Well I decided that I wanted to test fit my 215/45 tires on the se37’s. So I went to the tires shop and put one tire from the ce28 on to the SE37. Only did one so I would not waste money incase the fitment was terrible. Still need an alignment so the fitment will be slightly different.

Both with Tires on
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Front
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Some head on shots to show how much the offset sits out.
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Checking clearances while fully turned

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Rear (light went out in the garage so had to use drop light bc it was dark)

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Don’t mind the bumper took off the rear lip so its dirty as **** underneath


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Not sure how I feel about the 215’s there just yet. They look pretty beefy on the car Just a little scared of raping my fenders on bumps and hard turns. Putting the coil overs on a stiffer setting can help prevent that a bit.
 
Here is a small update nothing great mix of cell phone pics and camera pics

Took my spoon rad cap off so I could add some coolant and this is what I end up with

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Some pics of the cage mocked up in the car.
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Don’t mind my dumbass friend
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Had to take out the crash braces. Was curious to see what they weighed
Was about 17-18 lbs

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Weighted all the sound deadening too
Was about 10lbs

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Re did all of my grounds so that they are hidden pretty well.

First ground goes from the trans to the driver side frame rail. Bolted it under the shifter cable bracket and routed under the mount and then to the frame rail

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Second ground went from the lower timing chain cover to the passenger side frame rail

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What you can see from above in the bay

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Last ground

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This one went from upper chain cover to the shock tower

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Well now it was time to figure out my issue with the draining of my battery.
First thing I did was re do a few wires to my power distribution block. Upgraded size from the power block to the fuse box and just moved it a bit neater. (no pics )

After all of that I was going to test a few fuses out and I realized with the key no in the car a ton of fuse have power at all times. My headlights would not turn on neither would my cluster or fuel pump. So I randomly checked to see if the grounds were good and come to find out the whole chassis and every ground said 3.6V. So I used the power probe to ground the chassis and lights worked and so did the fuel pump. So my guess is there is a bad ground or some sort of power wire touching the chassis.
I have the worst luck I swear!!
So started at my pass side fuse box and I unplugged this one clip and chassis was grounded now. So something connected to this clip is the cause I guess. I had to run out so didn’t get to finish so hopefully later I can.

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Oh finally got last few pieces for my exhaust. Once this thing can drive taking it to get the exhaust done

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Well small updates as of today.

Taking apart the car to fix some stuff having issues with

Wish this was an old pic and not how it currently sits.
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Decided to bleed some coolant on the car while it was nice day with garage doors open. And first I see the upper neck leaking yet again after I re sealed it for the easily the 3rd time. Let me just say I have spent way to much money on that blue Honda coolant. Sick and tired of this stupid upper neck

Next issue I came into was this check engine coming back again.
I previously changed the VTC sensor , vtec solenoid , and cleaned the front screen by the idler pulley.


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Anyone have suggestions on what to check or do let me know.
 
Amazing build! Love the wheel collection! How much would a set of se37's cost in the states? as theyr well expensive here in the u.k
 
Amazing build! Love the wheel collection! How much would a set of se37's cost in the states? as theyr well expensive here in the u.k

Thanks for the kind words!
The se37"s are costly over here too! These are 16x7+25 SE37 which are rare specs. I have only seen another pair in the US so these were not cheap at all.

My ce28"s are for sale if anyone is interested.


Attention to detail is amazing :) I want to go k20 so bad.


Thanks! K20 swap is costly but should be worth it.
Can't wait to drive it once I sort my motor issues out
 
Amazing build up man, really love the effort you have put and not gave up like a lot of people I've saw take on a build as full on as this. P.s you have too much $$$$
 
Amazing build up man, really love the effort you have put and not gave up like a lot of people I've saw take on a build as full on as this. P.s you have too much $$$$

Thanks for kind words! Many times wanted to give up but I did not!
Build was over too years lots of saving and finding deals ! I'm a poor college student
 
What a thread! What a car! Some real nice parts!

How do you find the sidewalls on the Kuhmo XS? Are they as stiff as Toyo R888?
 
Sorry for lack of updates have been taking care of some other stuff and lack of motivation to work on the car.

Have been messing with intake set ups lately.

First I have the complete 3.5”
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Then I tried to see if a stepped intake would work. 3.5” in the fender well then 3” to throttle body

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Little out of focus
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Would prob cut it so the filter sticks out right into the fender well.
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For the intakes the straight 3.5” I don’t think has the best positioning for air to get to.
The stepped intake has better positioning and I still get to use my BDL clamps which I love on the TB

Any suggestions would be great! Need to figure this out so I can drop the intake off to the powdercoater.




Picked up a set of kosie k1’s 15x7 +45 few weeks ago.
Going to use these are track wheels.
I cant decide what tire I should go with on these. Thinking about doing a 225/45 tire all around or doing a 205/50. (no selection of 215’s for 15” tires)
My 4.7 FD makes me think I should do a 225 just due to the high off set I think the tire could rub on the inside a bit which could be fixed with a 3” spacer if that’s the case.
Reason I would not do a 225 is bc think it could be over kill for my ability
Let me know what you guys think!


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Got a spare set of tail lights for like $15 locally. I am going to put a kill switch in the pass side tail light for drag racing purposes. Also going to switch up and get an odyssey PC680 in the rear.


I am redoing the battery cable soon with better material and adding a 200Amp solid state relay with a disconnect so I can remove the tail light with the switch.



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Dropping parts off to paint today and hope to drop off some at the powdercoater later in the week


This week i am figuring out the check engine and waiting on a brake line fitting to re do some leaking lines.
 
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