death wobble ???


highlandej9

highlandej9

New Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2013
Messages
141
looked on forum for this problem n found nothing googled it and came up with this death wobble thing noticed when i reverse out my drive ( all flat ground) i can feel a wobble coming from what feels like passanger wheel while the steering is on half lock to the left also noticed it last night driving about 40-50 mph i felt the wobble it feels like the wheel has a wobble not a judder so feels like the tops coming out and bottoms going in and vise versa but quick lol at about 60 mph it feels floaty and the wobble is still there its kinda hard to explain in as little words as poss am just trying to explain what i feel lol ma mate says it could be my track rod i just need some 2nd advice from the experts lol


if this makes no scence at all i will try explain it again
 
Last edited:
You need to jack it up and wobble the wheel in all directions. Also spin wheel to checl for buckle and tyre out of shape.
Sounds like the lower ball joint - to check this wobble top/bottom but kind of lift wheel up / wobble upwards to feel the play.
If no fault found reset preload on steering rack.
Dunx
 
Loosen the big 40mm lock nut on rack, tighten 14mm bolt till it stoops, loosen 14mm bolt 1/3 turn, hold 14mm while tighten 40mm lock nut.
Lock nut not very tight so I just use my water pump adjustable grips.
Dunx
 
flicking through old reciepts and paperwork n came across current mot sheet

"offside front track rod end ball joint has slight play"
"offside front constant velocity joint gaitr damaged but preventing the ingress of dirt"

could these or 1 of these be the problem ???
if so is it a hard repair and much to repair the ball joint ?
already got a new cv and gaitor from a mate who used to own a civic
 
Sometimes the long drive shaft inner joints wear out causing strange vibration.
New CV joints are only £29.
Dunx
 
Got a cv joint just waiting for gaiter to come n pay day to come so a can get the track rods and fingers crossed the wobbles gone
 
maybe a control arm bent as i get a judder at dead on 20mph dissappears at 22 mph also one wheel pokes out of arch while other is neatly tucked inside . but im putting a type r rack in it alongside a type r subframe all better built stronger ect
 
jamesb16a2 said:
maybe a control arm bent as i get a judder at dead on 20mph dissappears at 22 mph also one wheel pokes out of arch while other is neatly tucked inside . but im putting a type r rack in it alongside a type r subframe all better built stronger ect
Click to expand...

would the type r rack n subframe fit onto the ej9 with no problems ??
and its not really a judder i feel its a wobble as if the cars sways left to right its hard to explaine once i have the track rod tie n cv fixed a will let you kno if that sorted problem if not i will be looking into other things suggested in other comments
 
replaced bot track rods and still get the judder i have a feeling 1 of my shocks is sticking so going to replace shocks and fingers crossed it works
 
I would do what Dunx said below, and I recommend you check out the rears as well. I would not bank on new shocks fixing your wobbling problem, because that's probably not it.
Are you going to try to fix this problem with your own labor? Did you try to diagnose the problem further before deciding on shocks? If you are going to pay a mechanic to replace your shocks you should instead pay him to figure out and fix your wobbling problem.

On top of what is posted below, I find it easier to jack up one wheel at a time in the front and isolate it to better zero in on your problem when wobbling things back and forth.
You want to give your suspension the full once over. After shaking side to side looking for play in the inner and outer rods ( I know you did replace the outers), try grabbing the wheel at 6 and 12 o clock, going back and forth. See if there's any play.
Another good check for your ball joints is to jack the tire just off the ground and put a pry bar underneath between the ground and the tire, and gently pry up and down. Check for play in the lower ball joint.

Then lift the car up fully in the front and check all the lower control arm bushings for extreme wear, using your eyes and a pry bar.

At the rear of the car do the same types of checks. I've seen the rear wheels move a lot going 6-12oclock because of bad upper control arm bushings.

type-r-dunk said:
You need to jack it up and wobble the wheel in all directions. Also spin wheel to checl for buckle and tyre out of shape.
Sounds like the lower ball joint - to check this wobble top/bottom but kind of lift wheel up / wobble upwards to feel the play.
If no fault found reset preload on steering rack.
Dunx
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top