Compared to the b18 9 it got softer suspension, otherwise it's mostly the same components.
More camber in the front on this one but not much.
The rear had more camber but changed that and it appears to have calmed down massively.
Only a 3rd of a turn on the rear arms seems to have done the trick.
The more you lower the car the more negative camber you get all round, more so on the rear.
Front negative camber is great on the front for cornering grip but excessive negative camber on the rear creates more grip, which isn't what you want for a good turn in (IMO).
On my old SiR EK4, I lowered the car to about about finger gap between tyre and arch and the only camber adjustments I made were to add x1 set of 1mm washers to each rear camber arm to extend the length thus straightening the wheel, this minor adjustment made the turn in a hell of a lot better. I'm speaking from a tracking experience, but the same principle could be adopted on road to help prevent excessive tyre wear aswell. Make sure you get the toe sorted out before you go mad buying camber kits and see how it goes from there .
At this height I was running about -2 degress on front and -2.7 ish degrees on the rear, the washers brought the rear to -2.0 degrees.
Agree with the whole statement up until excessive camber=more grip.
From my own experience too much camber on any wheel(esp rear on a light fwd) causes a lack of grip.
We all know that we camber wheels to counter act body roll(so tyres have full thread on road when cornering) now too much camber and not enough body roll will have the same effect as too much body roll and not enough camber.
As I said above my car came with -2.5 on the rear and it was alittle too loose for my liking, backed the camber off a 1/3 of a turn(so less rear camber) and now it's much better, which would suggest it now has more grip.
It's defo a personal preference thing though which will always stir debate but laws of physics still apply.