K swaping a ek help


New Member
Feb 7, 2017
First off this is my first post to the forum so ill start by saying hi!

well now thats out the way basically iv been playing with BMW's for a while now and iv got bord and decided to go back to what made me love cars in the first place the ek civic. im currently planning a self build with a 10k budget (thats including the buying a car) and i dont agree with ripping the heart out of a original R so plan to buy a ek for under £800 take it back to a bare shell and rebuild with uprated suspension etc and a K20 up front on a 10k budget

so first bit of advice is should i source all the K swap parts individually or buy a K-tuned kit?
will i need to swap to a dc sub frame?
how much of the fuel system will i need to change?
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Yo dude I'm no expert but I seen your post so thought I would share information I have gathered about a k-swap in an ek.

To run ekk2 mounts which sit the engine further back in the bay for better weight placement than the predecessors, you need have a civic eg/ integra dc2 subframe, lower control arms and steering rack. Also the sway bar and anti roll bar of an eg/dc.

I'm pretty sure there is k swap fuel kits and power steering kits if using ps. You'll need a k swap shifter and cables, hybrid racing have bolt in options. Youl need the engine and charging harness's from the same engine you choose and a k swap conversion harness.

A k swap package would probably be a bit cheaper than buying all other parts separate like manifolds, driveshafts etc.

Hope this helps until the k swap pros arrive
Thanks Jamie well better start looking for eg and dc2 subs etc this parts list still isnt looking too bad ATM

£300 for a dc2 subframe with control arms and hard race rack
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Yeah it gets pretty expensive. I paid about the same for my subframe etc aswell, I was told to be careful not to break bolts when removing the subframe and rack but the only bolts I had to cut off where both bottom ball joints and the bastard holding the steering rack on Haha

another good shout would possibly be to polybush The subframe up before you drop it in, obviously its not necessary but polybushes have a 3 Year life expectancy (35K miles) and great for peace at mind. I think once the subframe and rack are in you will start making some good progress especially if buying a full k swap kit.
Keep us posted on your progress dude and il try be of asssistance any way I can :nice::ek9:
I fitted my DC2 rack and subframe this morning, and all is well but I realised the bottom fork on my ek is too wide for the new LCAs so looks like I will have to source them before she goes back on the wheels
Well I now need that answer also lol, I'm planning on trying to keep the costs down by buying a ep3 and using as much of it as I can and part what I can't use

Planning on using the drive shaft connectors from both cars but what shaft will I need to get correct figment
We need to find out if the ek9 anti roll bar fits the eg subframe :S I don't wanna be spending money buying another roll bar lol, and I 90% sure ep3 driveshafts fit if we are using the eg subframe, you may have to swap the innner joints round apparently and use b series outer cv's but that's the route I'm going to attempt hopefully.
Could I use ep3 calipers on ek disk's. I really want to install as much ep3 as I can thinking on using the ep3 front seats rear also If i can mod them to fit, also going for the ep3 cluster wanted the s2000 cluster really but @ £400 the ep3 1s will do as this is free from the donner car
I'm not sure to be honest I know ep3 calipers fit but unsure what diameter disc is needed, and why not go for some ek9 seats or something? Ep3 really aren't that impressive up front
Looking at adding a supercharger to the mix was looking at rotex types but the price is scareing me would Mercedes eaton chargers work with self fab plumbing?