Si's second attempt at a DC2

Mark Mckay

Jul 21, 2017
Bmw coupe 320d
I can't see the photos :( my photos work just threw the upload a file on this not sure about any other way. But try again I really want to see this

Simple Simon

Active Member
Feb 7, 2014
Finally updated every picture on my thread, took a while but I'm glad I'm not 20 odd pages in like some! Haha

So I took a trip over to Simply Jap on Sunday. I haven't been since 2014, and it was quite a small event back then, but it was local. I couldn't quite belive the amount of cars there this time around! It's getting to be one of the larger Japnese gatherings on calender now.
Brilliant day out with a few mates, I was next to my mate in his JDM face-lift EP3, younger mate with an EP2 and another in his FN2 Mugen 200.



Hendy were present at the event as well, and were practically giving away some of their old stock as they are moving warehouse. So I snapped up a couple of goodies for silly cheap prices!


Spoon baffled sump and some radiator stays.
The sump isn't a massive necessity but I couldn't pass up the price. Nice that they give you an oem gasket and hamp filter as well.



I like the settings of Beaulie, and it's seems to bring out a lot of the older JDM models. Cars of the show for me were a mental Mazda RX3, a liftback GT Celica RA28 and an NA2 NSX-R! I only got the one picture but it was this pristine AE86 sitting on Volk mesh wheels...perfection.
This bottom pic is from my friend Chris Charles' photography pages



Simple Simon

Active Member
Feb 7, 2014
Yesterday was nice and sunny and I didn't have much on so I thought I would take a look at the metal behind the rear bumper and side skirts.
Overall I'm really happy with the condition, just Need to get on and protect it!

Behind the side skirts, couldn't see any rust on the drivers side.



Passenger side, one bit of rust underneath the skirt at the front where the 2 sheets of metal meet.



As you can see quite clearly where the underseal stops....just before where the rust has debeloped. Half arse effort with the underseal, so will be getting done properly.

Behind the rear bumper was all good though. The support bar for the bumper had some paint flake and minor rust and the 2 box sections only have the edges that are rusty.




I will most likely have TGM or Hond-R carry out the undersealing job as I just don't have the time.

More worryingly though, the car had a minor leak on the drivers rear inner arch. At the start it was luckily missing the inner half of the arch and was dripping into the rear seating area.
It looks like it is getting worse though as today I was treated to a small puddle accumulating in the rear inner arch! :nono::(



Luckily I have already protected the metal with cavity wax so the nooks and crannies should be okay, but still not ideal.
Again I'll let Hond-R/TGM take a look at it for me.

On another note, I've been driving the car with literally no interior, not even carpet and no headunit/speakers for months. Haha
Finally got round to getting some audio in the car! Found these pretty rare gathers speakers for sale and went for them as they are plug, play and forget.
Also picked up a new radiator cap as well. :)



So I'm back at work next week, which means I'll no longer be driving the car on a daily basis.
Unfortunately I no longer have a garage as it's been converted to a dining room. :(
I'm in desperate need of finding one! If anyone knows of anything down south of England let me know.
Tried to find a unit/lockup whilst I've been home and came up empty.
Anyone know the best place to find these?

Anyway, I'll be saving some money for upkeep/mods now and hopefully be getting a daily when I'm next back from work, so worst case scenario I won't be driving the integra over winter, it just won't be locked away.

Simple Simon

Active Member
Feb 7, 2014
This will probably be the last update of 2017 for me.
In the time since my last update the car hasn't changed an awful lot but I've bought quite a few parts which I still need to get around to fitting.

My Fujitsubo RM01A exhaust finally had the back box internal baffles replaced as they were non existent! I'm so happy I had this done as it now sounds the nuts in vtec and is basically silent at cruising speeds!

Genuine Function 7 LCA'S (need some cleaning and polishing):


I've been having a go at polishing up my Feels manifold, and it's a lot better than it was...but I think I'm going to get it finished by a company as I've grown bored of polishing. Haha



I've been searching since the day I bought this car for a set of wheels to suit it. Eventually found a set of Advan RG's on here in a good size and for a good price courtesy of @DV8

16 X 7.5J ET45 = 6kg! :notbad:


Did a quick test fit without tyres. Rears are pretty close to the arch lip! :nerv:


Had a quick look at the back spacing as well, relatively close to the rear arms clears. Probably about 15mm of clearance to the RTA.

The fronts tuck a lot easier, but again probably about 20mm of backspacing to the hub.


I swapped over my AD08R's from the OEM wheels and chucked them on the advans. Being a 7.5J wheel and a 215/45 tyre I am ever so slightly rubbing, when cornering hard and the car squats down at the rear, on the very edge of the arch lip. :nono:
I've bought some hardrace rear camber arms to tuck the wheel up slightly as I don't want to roll my arches, I'm still yet to fit these though.
Can probably see in this picture the slight marks where it's been rubbing.


Also attended my last meet of the year. The guys over at Hendy Performance in Southampton have recently moved so had an open day at their new unit. Myself and a lot of my mates are long standing customers of hendy as they can get any oem honda part and actually know what a DC2 and Ek9 is! Ha
Really nice local meet with a lot of familiar faces and a couple of cars I've never seen before.

My mates facelift JDM EP3, Marks DC2 and mine on the end.



Luckily I've been able to acquire a unit for the teg to go into over winter!:D It's with a couple of other lads so the price is quite reasonable. We'll be moving the cars in over the next few weeks. I've also acquired a daily driver from a family friend so I'm all sorted for the winter! :run:

Plans over the winter are to:
  • Underseal the entire car properly
  • Re bush the entire car
  • New engine mounts as mine are shot
  • Fit exhaust manifold
  • Fit baffled sump
  • Buy a socketed ecu & conversion harness
  • Most likely buy even more random car parts that come up for sale that I can't really afford :lol:
Car will then be mapped on Neptune by Romain once all the parts are on. I honestly can't see me doing any more engine mods for a long time as there isn't much to be achieved without changing engine internals or charging.
So I'll concentrate on handling from then on, and hopefully get a few track days in next year as I'm really disappointed I didn't get any time to do one this year. :(


Well-Known Member
Sep 21, 2010
Nice updates. Advans look really clean, although not sure if the spoon blue sunstrip goes with the red on the wheels and calipers.

Simple Simon

Active Member
Feb 7, 2014
Nice updates. Advans look really clean, although not sure if the spoon blue sunstrip goes with the red on the wheels and calipers.

Thanks man, yeah the Advans have been refurbished in Champ white and the red stripe instead of the standard blue. It took me a while to like the red pin stripe but think it does well.

Yeah I know the blue doesn't really fit in with the red theme, but I need a sunstrip as I don't have any sun visors due to the cage. Ha
I'm reluctant to get rid of the spoon one as it's genuine and was a gift from a mate

Simple Simon

Active Member
Feb 7, 2014
Came home tonight to find another package had been delivered :D

Courtesy of @LoganK , who has decided to break his K swapped DC2, I got a deal on some Meister R GT1 coilovers and Hardrace front camber arms for an offer I couldn't refuse. They're basically brand new and done minimal miles!

Can' wait to try these out! I had been contemplating getting either a custom set of Quantums made up or some Ohlin DFV's, but they would have cost significantly more than what I paid for these. I think the meister's are going to be more than capable for my requirements.



I've nearly got the full compliment of arms to re bush my car now. Just rear toe arms, front LCA'S and front compliance bushes left to buy.


Well-Known Member
May 27, 2008
Good progress Si, Some nice parts fitted and glad to see your tackling the important jobs like rust prevention, New wheels look lovely.

Simple Simon

Active Member
Feb 7, 2014
Good progress Si, Some nice parts fitted and glad to see your tackling the important jobs like rust prevention, New wheels look lovely.

Thanks mate, loads more of that to come soon! Not exactly looking forward to doing it. But looking forward to the end results and piece of mind :)

Last weekend I had a little get together with a few friends of mine, as a sort of end of year mini meet. We met up at Goodwood as it's pretty central for all of us. Unfortunately the weather changed for the worse, and I only bothered taking a couple of pictures.

Mark's DC2 on the left - just been remapped after headwork, made 201whp
Liam's S15 - engine rebuild and mapping had been finished a few days prior to this meet, made 400hp at 1.3 bar of boost
Jason's JDM EP3 - Mostly stock car, but is really quite fast with the JDM 4-6th gears! Really clean underneath!


Also forgot to update this with my latest purchase. I got these for a steal from a mate, they've been passed around between 3 of us now since Jason (EP3 pictured above) initially bought them 2 years ago. I haven't installed the passenger seat as I still need to find rail.


Lastly, the biggest news. I've finally managed to find myself a unit to rent! :win: So the teg is locked away for winter :D It's not too bad of a price, and not too far away. So I should be able to get a fair amount of work done over this winter.
I've also landed myself a position at work that means (hopefully) I won't be going away out of the country next year at all. :) Plan is to get the car ready for track at the earliest possible point and get as many track days in as possible next year!

I'm sharing the unit with Mitch, who has a pretty rare CRX SiR glass top. If you recognise the car, it used to belong to Steven Wisternoff's and then went to Adam Ivell (6TWO1). The car was swapped with Mitch for his EK9 he had at the time. He's quite a lot of headaches with this car, but it's now running a 96 Spec B18C. :cool:

Point Blur_Nov182017_215824.jpg

Simple Simon

Active Member
Feb 7, 2014
It's been a couple of weeks since the Teg was locked away in the unit. I started last weekend by giving it one last clean and getting the wheels off so I could give the arches and underside a good jet wash.
Check out the droop on those shocks!!



Rolled it back into the unit and left it for another week in order for the car to dry out fully (ie in the parts of the chassis I couldn't access)

Made a start today with stripping down the front end of the car in preparation for rust proofing. Really is simple and could have had it done in a couple of hours if I worked solid on it.

Started with the drivers side, also removed the crash bar and the bumper support.


Thankfully under the wings there was minimal surface rust :D Really happy as this is the one area I hadn't been able to inspect as of yet.



You can quite clearly see here where the underseal has been applied and then just abruptly stops where the arch liner goes lol

The only real cause for concern was up the top corner near the door hinge around this seam sealer. I'm going to have to remove it and see the damage underneath. I peeled a small amount back earlier and it looked like surface rust...fingers crossed.


Wasn't long before I had the passenger side off as well. Much the same story as the drivers side thankfully. :)



Slightly less rust on the seam sealed area above the door hinge


And a small amount of surface rust on the front slam panel


Left me with a car looking very bare haha




Need to do a bit of research on how best to go about removing the rust first, then the treating and undersealing. Anyone with any tips/tricks I'm all ears?

Will probably make a start tomorrow on stripping down the running gear and getting it all out the way to start on the arches. Not looking forward to all the ball joints involved up front, hoping the balljoint tool I picked up is man enough for the job as I snapped a breaker bar today removing the drive shaft nuts! haha

As always, thanks for reading.


  • 20171125_185033-3024x2268.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 225


Aug 24, 2009
Look into dinitrol products

They have a rust converter and primer which is ideal for light surface rust like you have which is also very minor looking

You could hit it with a wire buff on the end of a drill first then dinitrol on top

Dinitrol also do a great black body sealant to protect once the converter/primer has fully cured

Simple Simon

Active Member
Feb 7, 2014
Progress has been pretty slow on the dc2 seeing as I had the week off work, but I've had loads of other things to do the week as well.
I decided to use ebay to get most of my supplies like sandpaper, wire wheels, panel wipe etc as it's just far easier than driving from shop to shop getting a few items from each. Main downside is I am now waiting for it all to be delivered. Ha

But I've managed to get a few bits and bobs done though. I'm 90% there with stripping down the running gear. It's fought me all the way, but doesn't help when tools keep breaking! Started off with the driveshaft nut, breaker bar sheared in half where the socket attaches to! In the end I went and bought a 1" breaker and used a huge piece of scaff pipe.

Then came onto the hubs, I ended up having 2 ball joint splitters break on me! 3rd one finally worked out and they are now all free. I only kept using the same one as the store didn't have any better alternatives and told me I could 1 for 1 it as many times as I needed.


The final hurdle was the driveshafts themselves. They've totally seized themselves in the hubs. I managed to get the drivers side out by whacking the driveshaft with a bit of wood between it and the hammer, so that side is finished and I'm now left with a totally bare wheel arch.


However the passenger side isn't having any of it. I've used the nut of the end of the driveshaft and a socket on it whilst hammering to no avail. A centre punch and hammer and it hasn't budged. I'm going to give it one last go tomorrow and if not I'll probably split the driveshaft at the half shaft, take the entire hub to a garage I use down the road and get them to press it out.
I'm currently left with the passenger side looking 90% done.


I've taken other bits off as well, my manifold has been removed (probably the only thing that was easy as nothing snapped or was seized!) Also took both of my torque mounts off, one came off fine. The passenger side came off in pieces. haha


Also took the door card off the drivers side to get at the wing mirror. Good news to report that there is next to no rust there either (still need to do the passenger side)


Lastly, away from stripping the car down, I treated myself in the Black Friday sales last week. I don't exactly need these...but I I got them for a lot cheaper than at full price! Plus I had always planned to buy a set for the car at some point, so seemed silly not to (yes I could have probably invested my money more wisely on stuff the car actually needs lol)


I've got this weekend off as well, and hopefully all of my parts turn up by Saturday at the latest and I will then start the rust removal and treatment. Also going to clean up all of my arms, hubs and suspension forks (may bring those home to do in the warmth)

I think I've got my work cut out for me though, as after reading up about the Bilt Hamber products I am using I don't think many of them like working in cold temperatures. So not ideal having my car in a mostly empty unit, in winter ,with no heating. It will be trial and error to see if it works, if not I will just have to wait or invest in a heater that doesn't suck up too much electricity and is effective!


  • 20171128_162947-2268x3024.jpg
    1 MB · Views: 240


Jan 2, 2009
2000 UKDM ITR. CW factory std
Treat yourself to some energy inserts when you replace the torque mount

Best £40 you’ll spend

Simple Simon

Active Member
Feb 7, 2014
Treat yourself to some energy inserts when you replace the torque mount

Best £40 you’ll spend

Oh yeah 100%! I had those on my EP3 after changing my mounts and makes such a difference! Undecided as yet if I'm just going to replace the 2 torque mounts or get a set of 5 new hardrace ones.

Some amount of work gone into it, fair play to you

Thanks mate, the real work has only just began. haha Soooo much more to get through!

I've spent a good few hours working on the car over the weekend. I've come to the realisation of how long this undersealing process is actually going to take me!
I just need to stay focused on it and methodically go through things one by one.

Anyway, moving onto the matter in hand. I decided to tackle the drivers side bonnet hinge area as this is probably the worst of the rust in all honesty.
I started by removing all the old seam sealer. I'm glad I did as well as there were a few areas underneath that had started to develop some surface rust, but nothing major.


To properly get at it I decided to remove the scuttle (breaking 90% of the clips haha). Also cleaned the drivers half of it out. All good under there, no rust to report of :D



I knew to treat it properly I was going to have to remove the bonnet, so got Mitch to give me a hand today to remove it. Also took the windscreen moulding off as well...breaking even more clips. (£70 a side new!)

I then pulled out the wire wheel and went at it removing all the remaining seam sealer and as much surface rust as possible.


Not bad, treated a few of the areas with Bilt Hamber's Deox gel. After the 1st application.

Applied a 2nd layer and left it for a little bit longer this time (freezing cold unit isnt exactly helping the situation) All good to go.


I then followed this up with a coat of Bilt Hamber's Hydrate 80, which is a sort of rust barrier/rust preventative.


After it had dried I realised I had applied it a little too thin. But you're meant to apply a 2nd coat afterwards anyway.


Got another coat of there before leaving and that will now fully cure for the next 24 hours or so.

That one tiny section has taken me what feels like forever! I am just thankful that I don't have any excessively rusty areas on the car, as the process would be even longer.

I need to order some products still namely seam sealer so I can re seal the areas where I remove it. I've noticed there are a lot of areas that are seam welded but have zero seam sealer on them. Once they are protected I may seam seal a lot of these areas up to protect them a little more ( as long as they aren't vital water drain routes etc)
Also some white epoxy mastic as I only have black currently.

So yeah not a lot of progress...but it's something


  • 20171202_164049-2268x3024.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 196
  • 20171203_154054-2268x3024.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 221
  • 20171203_180206-2268x3024.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 207


Jan 2, 2009
2000 UKDM ITR. CW factory std
Have found with mine that inserts in all 3 torque mounts but leaving the uppers stock OEM has removed all traces of engine movement but hasn’t increased vibration to an unacceptable (for daily) level.

Car feels direct, tight & positive without being harsh