smoking brakes, need help


Vandal21

Vandal21

New Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2011
Messages
251
I changed my LR wheel bearing, brake rotor, and pads yesterday. Bleed the brake but didn't add fluid afterwards.

This morning I went out and the hand brake was extremely tight and the brake light wouldn't go off. I adjusted the hand brake tension to how it was before and added some fluid. The light went off.

I took it for a spin around the block to make sure there weren't any noises etc.. but I started to smell burning brakes so went back home and the pads I changed were smoking.

I'm not sure how to trouble shoot it from this point. I tried searching the forum for the last 45 minutes or so and found some stuff to help but not a solution to my problem.

I was thinking the e-brake is engaged, but wouldn't it have been smoking from both wheels? I've changed pads and rotors before on other vehicles but never encountered this. I would appreciate any help or suggestions!
 
Also, I replaced with Blueprint Pads and reused the shims since they didn't come with any.
 
Try jacking the car up and seeing if the wheel spins.

Sounds to me like the Calliper is sticking
 
I took your advice and the wheel does not free spin. I pulled the e-brake about 10 times and pumped the pedal 5 times after and there is no movement from the caliper.

How do I adjust/break the caliper free? Or do I just have to replace it?
 
So after some more research, I decided that I'm going to replace the caliper. When I did the initial change there was a lot of visible rust. I had cleaned it the best I could but have a feeling that this may be a culprit to my current problem and was probably a cause to my initial problems which caused the change in the first place.

Thanks for pointing me in a good direction Ellis.
 
When you fit rear pads you are supposed to
1. totally free off the hand brake (be sure cams on calliper are resting on the stop)
2. wind pistons back in
3. refit calliper
4. pump brake pedal
5. NOW adjust hand break leaving a few mm of free play in cable
 
What dunx said is spot on mate take notice of it.

Also since your fitting a new calliper and you will need to bleed it you might want to think about changing your brake fluid.

This is because beake fluid is hyrdoscopic (absorbs warter) and your fluid has probably got contaminated with water causing your piston to rust and therefore seize up

Changing it could prevent the problem happebing to another calliper further down the line and since you will be bleeding your fluid when you change the calliper you might aswell....
 
I feel stupid. :angry2:

I removed the caliper and pads. Cleaned the caliper some more. Made sure piston wound back down fully and no binding on caliper. Re-installed items.

What do you know, my wheel spins freely this time round. I must not have set the caliper correctly the first time. Now waiting for my wife so I can bleed it.

Pretty sure that was the problem- user error :((

I still plan on replacing the caliper in the near future (2-3 weeks) and fluid at that point. I really didn't like the rust that was there.

Thanks for the help guys. I appreciate the input and guidance.
 
Why are you bleeding them If youve just wound the piston back and put the pads back in? Unless its around more than a couple years old fluid I don't why you need to bleed the system
 
broke the lines and completely removed the caliper to clean it. I assumed that when you do this you should bleed the line.
 
I'm having a similar problem, I'm thinking i didn't wind the piston in ALL the way....My fluid is a bit dirty too so I going to bleed it all out and replenish with new fluid. I read a lot and saw a lot of videos on youtube where you can bleed brakes by your self. Get a clear bottle and clear tube, clean fluid in the bottle and make sure the tube is submirged. Attach the other end to the bleeder nipple with a zip-tie (to make sure no bubbles suck in) and put some greese around the threads. open the valve, pump the brakes a few inches 5 times and check for bubbles in the tube. repeat till there are no bubbles and close the valve.

Anyone tried that method?
 
Yes mate i have always done this method rather than using a pressure bleeder.

It works fine but you will need a 2nd pair of hands to make it easier (they hold the pipe and check for bubbles, you pump the pedal)

I wouldnt stick to the 5times rule though just do it untill there are no bubbles.

Few little things to remember:
.make sure the fluid level is topped up as you do the process.
.remember to hold the pedal down when you finish one side untill the bleed nipple is tightened up.
.start at the wheel furthest away from the servo and work your way back.
Hope this helps.
 
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