So Im About To Service The EK9


M

MWTech

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Jan 9, 2008
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Picked up my ek9 about 3-4 weeks ago. Has performed superb and its been well looked after by previous owner and will continue so by me.

The servicing has been spread out, and not all done at once, with an oil change just recently.

However, with any new car iv bought, im going to do a full service just so i know all is done. plus i start a new job next monday which demands more driving, so its worth it.

What do i need for a completely full service on the EK9 and where do you recomend i get stuff from? good online sites etc with good delivery times?

Oil
Oil Filter
Fuel Filter
Spark Plugs
Air Filter
........???

What else???

Im not a performance junky with this car, its my everyday ride. however... i wouldnt mind some general running upgrades if its alright to do so?

i wouldnt mind going for iridium sparks, is it ok to just replace stock plugs with these?

i have been recommended to stick with the stock airbox and replace with a panel filter. im going to go for a spoon panel.

i have the oil filter.

what fuel filter do people recommend, or is there only one kind? any upgrade types? are they worth it on a stock car?

also, the spark plug leads...id like to upgrade these while im at it. is it ok to just replace the stock ones with the likes of magnecor for example and work straight away with upgraded plugs? what kind do people recommend if so?

What oil do people recommend and how much does the ek9 engine take?

Is it worth doing the gearbox and diff oil as well while im at this? again, same question as above, what would people recommend, and how much?



what is the service intervals on a ek9? i have a 2000 Rx facelift. As said, completely stock performance wise.

Sorry for being a bit noobish too. Im new to the ek9.

ADVICE WILL BE APPRECIATED!! :)

Martin
 
If this is your everyday ride, I would advise to stick to stock parts. Hopefully the gasoline in Scotland is better then Russia - a fuel filter would last you 50 000 km.
The oil - if you tend to drive agressively - an oil change (and filter) has to be every 5000 - 7000 km. If you tend to drive normally - every 10 000 km is ok.
If the mileage is over 50 000 km, you might want to change the diff and tranny oil.
The oil...for high compression motors I would reccomend synthetic Castrol GT-X oil, or LiquiMoly (if available where you at). If your driving is not agressive, any low viscosity synthetic oil will do (5W-40 any manufacturer). For the tranny, you can either stick to the original Honda Tranny oil, or use LiquiMoly tranny oil (friggin expensive but lasts longer).
While you're at it, might as well change the cooling liquids and pump the brakes (needs to add a little brake fluid).
 
ah yeh, good point about the brake fluid, forgot about that

i use optimax 98ron around 80% of the time, or tesco 99ron if i need fuel and im at the supermarket.

i drive fairly normally to be honest, i rely on the car for work and getting around. however, knockhill is 10 mins from my door, and crail raceway is 40 mins up the road. i dont intend on using the car for these as i have a track rx7. but if thats ever out of action and im there, i wouldnt mind maybe a run or two...more out of curiosity to see what it could do. but yeh, normal driving 80% of my time, 20% harder, but even my hard driving doesnt cross paths with abuse.

fuly synth engine oil??

thanks for your quick reply by the way, helpful :)
 
Yeah full synth.
I use full synth cause of the temp difference...during summer the temp varies between +10 - +30 (celcius) and during winter from -5 - -35. Full synth stays a liquid - mineral usually freezes at such temps.
 
i would suggest draining the radiator fluid and refilling with premixed fluid, i noticed in japan they always use water in the readiator which is VERY bad, it tends to gunk up the water passeges, only use premixed radiator fluid.
 
Thanks

What uk websites are good for buying these parts that have ek9 in their car list?? iv been on a few and the ek9 isnt included, VTi is about as close as it gets.
 
Also don't forget 2 change the spark plug wires. Every time I get new spark plugs I try to make a habit of changing the wires as well. I resently did a tune up because I had a bad spark plug. I didn't change the wires and found out that it wasn't the plug that was bad, it was the wire!
 
yeh, iv mentioned the wires mate, thanks :) im like you, and want to make a habbit of doing the most at the same time.

what sites can i use to get the stuff? im still mostly finding results only for civics listed to vti16v etc. ek9 is no where except on the likes of nengun and so forth, but im not gonna get 2-3 days delivery there!!

any include members discounts? good delivery times? etc. any info would be decent cheers :)
 
As long as you use Distilled water to mix with 100% Coolant it is fine. Thats how they come when premixed. I don't like using premixed personally becasue I like to adjust the concentration

BASIC STUFF
-Cam belt (if worn or looks old)
-Oil filter
-Fuel filter
-Spark Plugs (I reccommend iridium, but not too sure how it would go in a cold country as it's already a cold type plug, OEM platinum would be your next bet.)
-Engine oil
-Gearbox oil
-Coolant
-Brake fluid(this one is a hard one, make sure your mech knows how to bleed and refill without air bubbles or else your brake peddal will feel soft. Dot4 grade OEM is good, or else Castrol DOT5 top range $80 per litre is the best especially racing)
-Power steering Fluid
-Spark Plug Cables (many ppl overlook this one)

OTHER STUFF
-New battery(this will help if idle isn't strong, otherwise its the fast idle valve that needs replacing)
-O2 sensor(if running rich, but expensive)
-Engine mounts(if you find your engine shaking or your gear stick moving when you punt the throttle while cruising, then 1 or 2 are stuffed. There are 5 in total)
 
Idiots guide/help for draining the coolant please? Sounds very simple but havnt done it before. :eek:
 
haitch said:
Idiots guide/help for draining the coolant please? Sounds very simple but havnt done it before. :eek:
Click to expand...

- On the bottom of the radiator is a (usually white) plastic 'wing'-nut. Screw that one loose and remove the radiator filler cap.
Remove the white plastic expansion tank and poor all coolant out.
(when you retighten this wing nut, don't tighten it too hard, or you might break it, just strong hand-tight should be good)

- If you also want to remove all the coolant from then engine block itself, then there's a big bolt somewhere on the cilinder block. With a B-series engine, I believe it's somewhere near the exhaust header, on the front of the block. Remove this bolt and all coolant that's still in the engine will run out.
(if you retighten this bolt afther all coolant has run out, make sure you use a new washer if it looks a bit damaged, and tighten the bolt hard enough)

Refilling is easy, just poor new coolant in the radiator opening on top. You can loossen the bleeding screw near the cilinder head, but it's not really necessary.
Fill the radiator untill it's completely full, and the reservoir tank until MAX.
Start your engine and let it get warm, untill the fan kicks in. Then go for a test drive and check the coolant level again. Add coolant if necessary.
(you can also unscrew the radiator filler cap again, but do this very very slow, because hot coolant will shoot out otherwise, and check if the radiator is still filled to the top, just to make sure)


There you go :D
Have fun !
 
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