Spoon ECU? But which one?


C

cj ek9

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Apr 2, 2008
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Hi everyone :D

Just looking on the spoon website, they sell 2 type of the Spoon ECU for the EK9, by the look of some jap+chinese writing next to the images, it just said early and newer ECU.


1. Do anyone known the different between the two Spoon unit?

2. What MPG can you get with your stock/Spoon ECU?

3. What ECU are you using now & Why?

Thanks

CJ
 
one is for prefacelift and facelift.

E-EK9 early model
GF-EK9 late model

If you use SPOON ecu, be sure to look on ebay for the buddyclub vtec controller($40US shipped). You need it to raise the vtec point back to 6000rpm. It works better there, and you negate the power dip between 5000-6000rpm.

I've already ordered one on the way.
 
jugbugz said:
one is for prefacelift and facelift.

E-EK9 early model
GF-EK9 late model

If you use SPOON ecu, be sure to look on ebay for the buddyclub vtec controller($40US shipped). You need it to raise the vtec point back to 6000rpm. It works better there, and you negate the power dip between 5000-6000rpm.

I've already ordered one on the way.
Click to expand...


Sound like you are using it now, what is the MPG?
 
i wouldn worry bout mpg too much as long as ur not hittin vtec it shouldn be much dif to wat u get now...i dunno if jugbugz is usin one but he did a no's that they have a power dip between 5000 an 6000rpm
 
Yeh I used it for my 9, its not good for the street, power dip between 5k-6krpm. I don't like it.

mpg isn't something that you can notice just by changing ecu. It's cams and vtec that drinks. hehe.

You guys should check out this SPOON ecu. The imprint serial is different to our stock ecus. I don't know why though...

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Power dip? Why is that? Spoon ECU isnt cheap, would have thought the delivery would be very smooth? Did you get the chance to try it on track m8?
 
this is my result of a dyno run with the Spoon ECU, looks smooth to me with no dips.
P4120070.jpg
 
I gotta say, I'm baffled by this stall you guys been noticing... What reason could such a reputable tuner have for programming an ecu this way?
 
I agree with the others who've reported this, my pre-facelift has one fitted and in 4th gear especially the engine goes dead between the revised VTEC engagement point of 5200 rpm but then picks up fine after 6000. The car actually feels like it's slowing down when this happens.

Lower gears are fine, I can't remember if it's noticeable at all in 3rd so I'll pop out later for a test drive ;)

Cheers,
Alex
 
I have not noticed anything like that on my facelift model but then again I have not driven a EK9 with std ECU yet. Also I cant really say that the car spends alot of time in the 5-6k rev zone. When I drive normal i change gear before 5k and when I drive hard it never drops past 6k rpm when changing gears. I change at 9k rpm and then it drops to around the 6k rpm zone.
 
Many people have agreed with this power dip on the SPOON ecu, it doesn't matter if they are reputable or not. Its just the fact that the high profile cams don't work well at low RPMs. Remember toda vtec killer cams? They make nothing under 6000rpm. Thats also why some tuners who upgrade their cams, kick the vtec later. Like for example our most powerful local B16A uses TODA C and kicks vtec in at 7000rpm. It's because thats where its effective and is producing good volumetric efficiency.

Thats the purpose of VTEC, to use High profile cam for higher rpms and lower profile cams for lower rpm.

I noticed that with the J's Racing ecu, the power climbs above the stock line from 5800rpm and then just eats it up the stock line.

It could be that racers find that more time is shaved off when your outside the power band on high cam than compared to having the Vtec transition switching back and forth. I don't know but just guessing.

But winston, yours seems different? Are you sure your motor is not stroked to 1.8? It looks like it. The power band is very smooth without any power hikes. 193hp/158Nm at the wheels?

I also have J's racing ecu which kicks vtec in at 5500rpm, on the dyno, theres a dip between 5500rpm - 5900rpm then climbs above stock.
 
The 192 is at the fly i guess, it´s usually lower when measured at the wheels...i think :) It´s what the engine produces so it must be at the fly.

I´m sure it´s not stroked, if it was then there should be more torque. A std DC2 has 170nm i think, so I´m nearly sure it´s not stroked. Duncan should know this as it´s his old car.

I have just been for a drive and I really cant notice anything wrong, pulls just fine between 5&6k rpm
 
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