Which OIL recommended for the B16b


It's good, it's a PAO synthetic, so a good basestock and a better oil than many on the market.

Cheers

Tim
 
Tim, out of the 5w40 range what oil would you consider to be the best quality? Interested to hear your view on this as I've ran a few different makes with some varying results.
 
im being lazy and not reading the whole thing. any recommendations on what oil for a boosted b18c4?
 
It's not really fair to say one is better than another as the results seem to vary a little from car to car. Like some people will complain the Pro S burns off too quickly or their car is noisier with it, but some others will say they've gone back to the Pro S as the Millers CFS/Redline/Motul 300V/Gulf Competition were burning/noisier in their car.

I'd say the Fuchs Pro S, Millers CFS, Redline, Motul 300v and Gulf Competition are all on a par based. The Millers Nanodrive might be a a step ahead though. They have developed an additive package that reduces friction, making the engine run more efficiently, so it can produce more power.

Nanodrive - Low Friction Technology | Millers Oils

It's not been out long enough for me to say with 100% certainty that it's the best, but it's looking very good so far.

Cheers

Tim
 
Hi oilman,

Just about to do a service on my ek9 and i have always used 0W-30 Castrol Edge.

I am thinking about changing to either Motul 300v or Fuchs (silkolene) Pro S 5W-30.

Is there much difference between the 2? The Motul is much more expensive and i was wondering if for me who uses just fast road and occasional track day there is much difference between the two to warrant the extra price?

Thanks!
 
Hi

Both are top quality, so I would go for the Fuchs and save the money.

Cheers

Tim
 
been content running 5w40 300v in my hondas, it actually made a huge difference on my k20a2 in the ep3 i used to have

ran quieter, felt a lot smother even though the oil that was in it was fairly decent

might have also been a figment of my imagination

:p
 
I use the same 300v 5W40 and i'm happy with it. Before 300v i have been using Fuchs race Pro S with good results too.

The main thing imo in the b series is that the oil got to have a lot of zinc in it because of the rocker arms and camshaft.
 
Try redline it has the most zinc you can get (1200, Amsoil 800 zddp and 300v 600) i'm usig this oil for past 2 years (5w30) . From my point of view is the best oil out there.
@ Tsuchinoko : How much oil is the engine burning with the 300v?
 
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When we spoke to some oil chemists, they said that the ester based performance oils are about 1200-1400ppm ZDDP.

ZDDP is not the only thing that protects the engine though. The esters in the oil and the rest of the oil all have their parts to play, but 90% of the time people only consider ZDDP.

Cheers

Tim
 
Vali_lj said:
Try redline it has the most zinc you can get (1200, Amsoil 800 zddp and 300v 600) i'm usig this oil for past 2 years (5w30) . From my point of view is the best oil out there.
@ Tsuchinoko : How much oil is the engine burning with the 300v?
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Well it depends on my driving, if i run hard with the engine seeing the rev limiter it will burn more but in average in 10.000Km arround 1 liter, and this is normal.

About the 600ppm of zinc i think that is not correct by the analysis that i've been seeing the 300v was always arround 1000 and 1300 ppm of zinc, same for fuchs race.

The oil with with the most zinc in it i think is the brad penn oil but this oil is not a ester based oil.

The experience i've got is that Fuchs is really a good oil most cams with the supertech valvetrain for example have a premature wearing and with this oil we can protect them. Has for the 300v i got these oil last week in my workshop i can't give any feedback yet, but i hope that this oil isn't bad because is protecting a very expensive setup.
 
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@ Tsuchinoko : The number for the ZDDP are after 14000 km trip on a B16A2 that used all 3 types of oil (5w30 RL , 5w40 Amsoil and 5w40 300v). The VOA ( virgin oil analisis ) is what they say but after 12000 km the diference is enough.
Please come back with a feedback on 300v after 6000 km , i think is more markenting for Motul this days.

@Oilman: I know that the level of ZDDP and phosphorous is not the only thing to look for an oil but is one of the most important for antiwear on our engines.
Is true that most performance oil start from 1200 ZDDP but goes up and above 2400 ( see Red line racing oils , Maxima Ultra oils etc) also a lot of ZDDP increases friction (which is counter-intuitive but it's true) and you need moly or other friction modifiers to decrease surface friction increased by ZDDP or will be corrosive.

Do you have any feedback on the new 7,5w XX oils?
 
If you have a look at the SAE J300 chart, 7.5w isn't mentioned. There isn't a grade between 5w and 10w (so it's a thick 5w or thin 10w), but there now seem to be a few companies that are calling their oils 7.5w and selling them as performance oils, although most of the ones I have seen this morning are API SM, so reduced levels of ZDDP.

Personally, I believe 7.5w is a gimmick at the moment, it doesn't seem to be a grade that big reputable oil companies produce. The companies that seem to sell it now are tuning companies and as they are not oil companies, they won't be making it themselves. That means they are either buying in oil from an oil company and relabelling it, so you end up paying more for the same thing by the time they make some money out of it, or they are getting an oil company to make the oil for them. It's very rare that own brand oils are any good, they are made to a budget and the oil companies want to sell their best products under their own name anyway. It also seems that as the 7.5w oils are sold as performance oils, they are selling them at silly prices. One I have seen in the past was around £85-90 for 4L, and the cheapest I saw when I had a look a minute ago was £14.96 per litre, but that was only a semi. For just over £10, you can get a top quality, well proven, ester synthetic oil from a reputable oil company.

While looking at oil grades earlier, I did see there will be some upcoming changes in the SAE grading system, so a 7.5w might become a proper grade.

Cheers

Tim
 
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