EK9 Racecar


Probably the best £387 you will spend. The oem is good, so if i were you i would use that if your not looking to spend that kind of money on a pulley but remember the oem one was made to match the oem internals of the engine. Everything you have done has now changed. This is where the fluidampr is an amazing bit of kit because no matter how your engine is set up this can adapt to it and damp out all of those high frequency vibrations.
I agree with what jesse did with the oem one because the rubber looked no good and if it breaks if can cause some issues but dont think i would personally bother with having it machined.

Ben
 
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Today was mostly spent sorting out my oil squirter clearance, my first attempt wasn't quite enough clearance!


The counter balance on the crank was hitting the oil squirters and locking the engine :eek2:

I have to admit I pooped my pants a little!

So I spent some time trying different bends, it amazing how quickly time flys! Seems like I've done nothing today!

My last 2 bends were these



This bend cleared, but didn't leave much margin for error.

And this bend is what I've ended up using.



The clearance on this bend is far better, and it seems to make more sense with the oil ways in the piston.

Although you don't need the squirters due to the set up I'm using them as I can't see that they'll do any harm.

I'm learning so much, really enjoying it. It might take me a while but I'll get there!

Thanks to @jesse888 and @robthedoc for the advice and guidance. :nice: Really appreciate it.
 
Nice work mate, I see you're living life on the wild side and staying open deck like a few of us on here:))!

Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong, if you were to remove the oil squirters completely then the holes would need blocking off, due to there being 4 big holes where oil could just hose out, and drop oil pressure?
 
^ that's correct. Some people block them and go on about oil pressure but the reality is the pressure is fine with them in.
Piston cooling is a win imo.
 
I'd take piston cooling over what's probably a very slight raise in oil pressure.
 
Cheers Matt! Yeh staying open deck, will see how it goes! Yeh you can blank them off.

Yeh that's what I thought Jesse, don't see how keeping them would do any harm. And surely will aid piston cooling :nice:
 
Only thing I can think of is drag racers trying to run really thin oils for less pumping loses?
 
Took the rocker cover to work to finish it off. Hondabond HT and rivoted the baffle back in.
A few rivots wouldn't work due to the holes being too shallow.



 
So tonight's progress, rods are in a torqued down using my rod bolt stretch gauge :nice: main caps are all torqued down to spec.


Went to fit the oil pump and realised it didn't come with an new outlet o-ring so progress has come to a halt till I can get an new o-ring.
I'll be calling Honda tomorrow morning then!


Thank you for all the likes from the people following my thread!
 
Found an o-ring for the pump. An new one from Honda is £2.02.
Also stripped and cleaned the new oil pump, there were little bits of dirt and metal filings inside!
And before assembly I primed the pump with oil.



 
I've heard of other people having the same thing with new oil pumps,
Pretty shocking for a oem part, at least you found it
 
Lots done tonight, fitted the oil pump, then got the bottom end buttoned up with the nice Moroso sump:))










Fitted the ARP head stud kit and the buddyclub head gasket.













 
Always a good feeling bolting the cylinder head to the block.
Out of interest why did you go for the buddyclub gasket over oem?
 
I hope I'm wrong but the headgasket looks like it's on the wrong way round, can't see the "up" and if you look at the bottom right of the pic there's a hole that matches up with a port the other end of the block? And the flat tab at the bottom left should always be at the box end?
 
EK9 Matt said:
I hope I'm wrong but the headgasket looks like it's on the wrong way round, can't see the "up" and if you look at the bottom right of the pic there's a hole that matches up with a port the other end of the block? And the flat tab at the bottom left should always be at the box end?
Click to expand...

Think your right bud looks upside down to me aswell.
You'd be surprised how common that is.
 
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