Jesse888 Forged/stroker turbo ek9


Yeah I'm quite pleased with myself tbh, that's like 4microns iirc.
All waiting on the block now really, once it's back I can start building.
Will try and document the whole process on here but you know how these things go sometimes.
 
Looks like you are getting on well, but......
Its all fine and well being able to measure down to tenths, but has the mic been calibrated? It could be half a thou out or even a thou. This needs to be checked against a calibrated known size.

Keep up the good work though, if you keep up this attention to detail, you will have a nice strong, good motor.
 
You make a good point. I'll get some of those check blocks to make sure the mics are good.
Still reading and learning the whole time. Engine balancing is one I'm learning ATM.
Because the pistons and rods are lighter(not sure how much just yet) will the counter weights on the crank have to be changed/modified? I've read an artical about "over balancing" engines that see a lot of high rpm to cancel the vibrations out in that rev range.
Seems alot of people quote that their built engines are "blueprinted" but this is highly unlikely that the builder has matched absolutely everything perfectly and has just gone to "within tolerances" instead. Which obviously isn't blue printing.
I'll be doing it within tolerance but get the majority of the bottom end as close as I can.
 
Yeah man, cost me so much in tools! Learning alot though so worth it IMO
 
You'll learn alot of valuable info this way rather than just paying someone to do it for you. Fair play.
 
awesome work with the measuring, hats off to you, it seems like hell lol :p
really interesting seeing it all done!
 
nicole_ said:
awesome work with the measuring, hats off to you, it seems like hell lol :p
really interesting seeing it all done!
Click to expand...

You know what, it wasn't hell at all. I actually enjoyed it weirdly. Usually if a job takes longer than 30mins I get pissed off but this I'm finding really interesting. Makes learning pretty easy when you've got such interest in what your doing.
 
jesse888 said:
You make a good point. I'll get some of those check blocks to make sure the mics are good.
Still reading and learning the whole time. Engine balancing is one I'm learning ATM.
Because the pistons and rods are lighter(not sure how much just yet) will the counter weights on the crank have to be changed/modified? I've read an artical about "over balancing" engines that see a lot of high rpm to cancel the vibrations out in that rev range.
Seems alot of people quote that their built engines are "blueprinted" but this is highly unlikely that the builder has matched absolutely everything perfectly and has just gone to "within tolerances" instead. Which obviously isn't blue printing.
I'll be doing it within tolerance but get the majority of the bottom end as close as I can.
Click to expand...

Think off balancing the engine like balancing a tyre. You put extra weight opposite the heavy area to make it run smooth.
Your motor will need balanced, but it wont grenade if it doesnt get balanced.
It is something you cant do at home, much like balancing a tyre, unless you have the equipment to do so.
Over balancing sounds like it will be balanced for one particuler rpm band, where as your car will need balanced for a wide range of rpms.
 
Yeah, another thing to pay for then.
Will do some more reading and weigh the oem set up see what the difference is.
Mean time I can ask around and see who had their engines balanced and who didn't etc
 
Saying this the crankshaft came from ijwhitemans block, which had forged rods and wiseco pistons in. He said that the engine was balanced so it should be somewhat close to my setup already?sounds really ghetto but it can't be far off? Assuming it was actually balanced and Ian wasn't lied to by the engine builder.
 
So decent update!
Got my block back from machine shop, had them check the piston to wall clearance in front me(twice) is .0035"
Oil squirters bent and installed


So with that done I set about some clearance checks of my own.
Out came the plastic gauge!
These are the crank shaft mains with ACL dura glide bearings in.






They aren't all even but the clearances are pretty good and I can run these with out any issues.

Then got to try out the rod bearings, again ACL dura glide. I had issues stopping the crank turning while I stretched the rod bolts but this is best I could manage today.






These bearings are alittle tighter than the mains are. Still confident I can run these and be happy about it unless anyone here can tell me otherwise?

Fitted the pistons and rods together



Getting pretty excited by this point!
So stuck the head studs in aswell


That's basically where I'm at now. Need a piston ring file to get the end gap perfect and then the piston/rods can go in aswell.
As I've said above, if anyone can see any reason why my clearances aren't going to work or could cause issues then shout out now!
 
Great progress...I've done a lot with cars and I'm in car electronics for a job...but engine works scares the life out of me!!
 
They ACL Standard size bearings pal ? What do your rod journals measure at ?
 
Yeah ACL standard size. I haven't actually measured the rod journals myself. Had the crank checked over at the machinists and he said that it's all within factory tolerance.
Thought I'd throw the bearings in and plasti gauge them and they are my results.
I've got a set of standard size ACL rod bearings for b18c(used) that I can send you just for reference before you buy more?
My clearances are defo larger than yours are be it by a few tenths.
 
Those clearances are fine mate. You need to ensure there is sufficient clearance between the pistons and oil squirters. You'll be in a mess if they touch. I'd just block them personally.
 
Yeah the clearance is 030" according to wiseco.
I'll try and get in there with the feeler gauges once the whole rotating assembly is bolted in.
These squirters where used in Ian's engine with the wiseco pistons, should be ok but I'll check them anyway.

Taking it all apart again today, paranoid I've left abit of grit on one of the main bearings. It all spins nicely but I can't leave it lol
 
Might aswell remove the headstuds. They will get in your way while doing the piston rings and fitting the pistons.

There would only be grit on them if you have got grit on them, were your hands clean? Were the rags/towels you were using clean? Mind oil the bearings up aswell.
 
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