Jesse888 Forged/stroker turbo ek9


I had a look anyway. Clean as a whistle, my own paranoia lol
I've done one ring with the studs in. Wasn't too bad will se how it goes.
Alittle concerned I may have over gapped the 2nd ring.
A good few thou over wiseco recommended gap.
 
Only done one ring ATM and it's at .021"
Anyone think this is too much? Engine will see a fair bit of heat on track.
 
jesse888 said:
Yeah the clearance is 030" according to wiseco.
I'll try and get in there with the feeler gauges once the whole rotating assembly is bolted in.
These squirters where used in Ian's engine with the wiseco pistons, should be ok but I'll check them anyway.

Taking it all apart again today, paranoid I've left abit of grit on one of the main bearings. It all spins nicely but I can't leave it lol
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It depends on the style of the piston as well. You maybe fine if Will (RDT) modified them. You need to ensure that there is enough clearance though, as you've got a good chance of wrecking the engine if they come in contact.
 
jesse888 said:
Only done one ring ATM and it's at .021"
Anyone think this is too much? Engine will see a fair bit of heat on track.
Click to expand...

If the engine is going to be run hard on the track you'll have no issues. The gaps close up when heat is added, and the fact that the engine will be run at such a high speed prevents gasses escaping as easily through the ring gaps.
 
Was hoping you'd say that. I want to build the engine to last long on the track.
Will see very little road mileage so makes sense for it to be optimised for a hotter environment.
Tried to check the clearance on the squirters today but with the crankshaft in its pretty impossible.
Will defo double check it as I want to run them if I can.
I know I can bring the piston right down without any contact but I don't know what the clearance actually is.
Looks closer to the crankshaft than the piston tbh.
 
Cheers bud.
Although now I'm using the b18c crankshaft it's an 1800.
Technically a stroked b16b? Although all the b16b parts have been changed out for forged b18c items leaving just the block.
 
jesse888 said:
You make a good point. I'll get some of those check blocks to make sure the mics are good.
Still reading and learning the whole time. Engine balancing is one I'm learning ATM.
Because the pistons and rods are lighter(not sure how much just yet) will the counter weights on the crank have to be changed/modified? I've read an artical about "over balancing" engines that see a lot of high rpm to cancel the vibrations out in that rev range.
Seems alot of people quote that their built engines are "blueprinted" but this is highly unlikely that the builder has matched absolutely everything perfectly and has just gone to "within tolerances" instead. Which obviously isn't blue printing.
I'll be doing it within tolerance but get the majority of the bottom end as close as I can.
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Unfortunately the b18c bearings are wider than the b16's :( . Yeah your tolerances are wider than mine even on std acl's and Im struggling with reds. If you're within oem spec it should be around 44.98 like mine, can't remember the service limit but if your crank has been polished at any point it may be a little smaller than mine.
 
Cranks not been touched as far as Ian knows.
He bought it from r motion as a complete b18c I believe, then proceeded to have the engine built.
I can send you them if you want them. Only have the rod bearings in ACL spare.
 
Build looking nice so far your using same piston/rod combo as me :) wish I had time to learn & do it all myself too :)
 
Its always a great sense of acheivement when the cylinder head gets bolted back on to the block.
You might want to throw a sump on while your at it, stop dust getting at the bottom end.

I did the same thing aswell with the cam covers haha! Had to take the cams back out to put it on!

Murray
 
Yay progress! I'm dying to have an engine back together. Guess everything can go back together now? :D
 
Had alittle incident with the rod bolts. So waiting on replacements.
Long story short I over stretched them whilst checking I had done it correctly lol
Should be here any day.
 
Managed to get out of work at a sensible hour today.
Did alittle more work.
Got the rear belt cover on
Noticed I've got the wrong oil pump(us spec b18s have crank sensor on the pump) mines a b16b block. So is a slightly different shape.
Another thing to get sorted lol
Got the inlet mani on and afew bits down that side of the block.
Debating what to do with the oem water-oil heat transfer.
Cooler water temps on track would be nice, but don't want engine to take an age to get oil temp either.
So things in waiting on
Correct oil pump
Replacement rod bolts.
Then the fun starts!(assuming it actually starts lol)
 
Coming together nicely.
What's the ussue with using the usdm oil pump? Does it stop the belt cover fitting correctly?
If you want to ditch the heat exchanger then some b16a's have pipes (between water pump and thermostat) with out the take off for the heat exchanger so it saves looping the pipes you can also get a bung to screw in to the block
 
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