Jesse888 Forged/stroker turbo ek9


Ye the swarf will end up in the sump, pump, vtec solenoid and in the galleries that feed the rockers.

Exactly how mine was also, it takes 2 minutes to rip that solenoid off so you just as well do that first and see, don't risk driving it any more, been there-done that,

If the pressure drops any lower you could easily spin a bearing or wipe it of material, which could lead to overheating of a rod or main cap/block (turning it blue and in to scrap)
 
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Pre oil the pump? I primed the engine by turning it over on the starter until the oil pressure light went out, it's an option to explore but you'd have thought the symptoms would have shown from the start?

When I built my engine I took the cover off the pump and covered the pump with engine building lube, when turning the engine over on the starter it's probably doing 500rpm it would not take long for the two pump parts to pick up on each other( like b16 mini pic) because the two parts in the pump when dry are in contact with each other and they need a film of oil.
 
We'll see how it looks.
I want to check the crank for being bent, would simply using a DTI gauge on the end of the shaft(pump end) work?
while its still fitted to the block and I can then turn it by hand and watch the gauge?
 
Only problem with that Jessie is if your main bearings are shot it will show something on the DTI, however I would do it anyway! Only good can come from checking these things.
 
Good point. I'm fairly confident(without actually checking anything) that the bearings are ok atm.
My friend had a b18 that kept eating oil pumps, he ran his till the light came up twice(2 diff pumps) and everytime w put a new pump in the pressure was spot on. So no bearing damage was caused...
Tbh I'd rather find the crank bent than not know what it is/was
 
DTI it for a start, if it comes up good then I would say your mains and crank are true. In my opinion as its a track car and you have sunk serious notes into it strip it down and check everything.

Your gonna wreck your head worrying everytime you get something trivial if you don't.

If you do, make sure you strip the head, since you never touched it before. Just to be sure to be sure.
 
I won't be stripping the head. Leave that for another winter.
I want to get the engine back up a serviceable ASAP but make sure it's not going to implode when I'm in Germany again.
Ians engine made a **** load of swarf just like mine is. Same crank so I'm pointing at that atm
His lasted 7k miles of abuse before a valve let go.
I say swarf, it's sooo fine it's basically a paste. Like it's been through a blender(pump). Time will tell
 
Yeah I understand, only thing is if its around the bottom end, its probably around the top too..

Since its steel swarf its a big problem! Did you strain your oil?
 
No I didnt. I emptied from one container to another, didn't find anything really.
Filter is still on the engine so that's the next step.
New gauge has been ordered to rule that out aswell. Long shot but...
 
Good point. I'm fairly confident(without actually checking anything) that the bearings are ok atm.
My friend had a b18 that kept eating oil pumps, he ran his till the light came up twice(2 diff pumps) and everytime w put a new pump in the pressure was spot on. So no bearing damage was caused...
Tbh I'd rather find the crank bent than not know what it is/was

Engines don't eat oil pumps though, there had to of been an underlying issue , like a bent crank or the block had been line honed to deep or something being done wrong every time

If you have any particles in the vtec solenoid filter then it's vital you strip and clean everything
 
Oh yeah Defo agree it's not right. I was just commenting that his bearings where fine and it was the pump everytime causing the low pressure.
He didn't get to the bottom of the issue which is a shame.

I got the sump off, small particals laying in the sump, very few of them. The oil that's in the sump and oil filter is NOT gritty to the touch, after running plenty of it through my fingers I've not felt any grit.
The crank doesn't move in and out that I could notice with a pry bar.
The rods have side to side play though? Like I can wiggle them with my fingers.
The engine doesn't seem to have very strong compression, it turns over real easy by hand and you can hear air rushing out. Faint petrol smell to the oil aswell, Think that's what my black oil is about, on power stroke it's leaking carbon etc past the rings and into the oil but it isn't bad enough to let oil back past to send it through the exhaust.
Probably all the idling I had to do when it was first started, rings haven't set aswell as I'd of hoped but that's not massive issue just yet, I'd happily run that for this season and rebuild it over next winter, missing this years track season is not an option for me. I'd rather build it again next winter if I can.

At first I thought the crank was jumping around because the inside of the block looks like it's been hit/scored but I can't see anyway that's possible, the cranks in tight and there aren't any markings on the rods or the bolts etc to prove that.

I've not taken any caps off yet, I wanted to check what the torque settings where for each of them first, to check they are still tight.
I think I can see scoring on the pump through the oil pickup hole, Yet to confirm though.

The oil pickup had come into contact with the sump it would seem, shiney dot on the inside of the sump and a shiney spot on the oil pickup.

Pictures will come but obviously I've got to try and diagnose this all first.
Either way looks like I'll be building it all again, if not now then over next winter.

On the bright side the learning curve is still steep, we love abit of learning!
Shame I have to do it the hard way everytime lol

Edit: found a chunk of piston in oil pickup mesh(tucked in the rim) Don't worry it's a cast piece, must have missed it when I cleaned it out the first time! Hopefully a piece didn't find the oil pump. Also afew bits of blue roll in there aswell. Lesson learnt to be abit more vigilant with the cleanliness. I'm not convinced that's the issue though. I want to check the cranks straight and the bearings are clean first.
 
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The only way to check a crank is out of the car. Cant be done any other way.

Hopefully it can be fixed easily.
 
With the amount you have invested in that motor, I say cut your losses and rebuild it now. If you blow the motor you will regret it.

Hate to be the bearer of bad news :(
 
The only way to check a crank is out of the car. Cant be done any other way.

Hopefully it can be fixed easily.

How would I check it out the car? Take it I'd need some form of rig that the crank can turn on?
 
With the amount you have invested in that motor, I say cut your losses and rebuild it now. If you blow the motor you will regret it.

Hate to be the bearer of bad news :(

More investigations before I go rebuilding the whole thing now, may clean it all up, check crank,bearings etc are ok and try it again. If it loses pressure again then it's rebuild. Like I said, don't want to miss this track season I'd rather have to build it again.
 
Ye using a dti on the will check end float within the bearings. You will find then rods can move slightly like you found.

Maybe the rings havent bedded properly thats why your rings feel like there leaking?

Have you done. Compression and leak down tests
 
I haven't done any tests on the engine, it ran so well I didn't feel the need to test its compression etc.
I'm hoping that after afew more trackdays the rings will wear abit more and it'll gradually get better, If it doesn't then I'll rebuild next winter with another hone and new rings. That's no problem, just need to find out what this pressure lose is about. Pointless rebuilding it before I find out what's causing this, I'll be in the same boat after the next trackday...
 
Did you check the vtec solenoid mesh then?
 
Not yet. Took longer than expected getting turbo off.
I'm pretty sure it won't have anything in it but I'll check it tomorrow along with the pump and report back.
Cleaned the sump and oil pickup throughly so that's all good.
Waiting on deliveries after tomorrows work so can't do much.
Best get the overtime in at work, R motion want £400+ for a b18c crank lol
 
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