Wilwood 4 pots problem


and could you get back to me about replacment pads wanted the price for a set shipped if you dont mind mate
 
I also use goodridge line with oem banjo bolt. when i change mc i will take banjo bolt and i will meaeure bolt and caliper depth.

wich is best to brake line,hard line or braided?

As i have left hand drive ek the ek9 mc one of connections its on wrong side and i will connect car line with mc with 4 or 5inch line to conect mc to male m10x1 with flare
 
hi, sorry to gate crash your thread,
so kozy, would it be better to have a bigger mc with bigger brakes, so if i could get a 1 1/8inch mc say,
would that be better that a 1inch??? or would it make the brakes far to sharpe???
 
1" is th biggest you can get unless you want to go for a custom pedal box arrangement.
 
Kozy, did you find someone selling a valve like the one you and Tamma mention for the vacuum hose. I'm going to trying bleeding mine again tomorrow but there does seem to be a lack of feel in the pedal at the moment.
 
Probably just something like this.

No sure what size T piece you'll need to fit it to the vacuum line though.
 
clockwoRk said:
Kozy, did you find someone selling a valve like the one you and Tamma mention for the vacuum hose. I'm going to trying bleeding mine again tomorrow but there does seem to be a lack of feel in the pedal at the moment.
Click to expand...

When you write/say "lack of feel" what do you mean? Is the pedal to touchy, easy to lock up the front wheels?

...with my setup and no relief valve, the pedal felt too powerful, I could easily lock up the fronts and no/little feedback at the pedal that this was about to happen.

Bleeding off a little bit of vacuum opened up the delta to locking up the fronts wheels as well as gave me a better feel to when the fronts were going to lock up. I swear can actually feel the brakes working via pedal feedback. Added benefit is you better dial in pedal modulation.

Again, your system should be in proper working order prior to installing this little sucker.
 
Thinking about it now I might just need to adjust to it. I've just driven 60miles to get to my parents' house now and they feel fine for normal driving. It was just when braking hard when bedding the pads in, I've been so used to needing to push the pedal as hard as I physically can to get them to work well, having them lock up without too much effort all seems a bit strange.
Race on Saturday so I see how I get on then ;)
 
It seems that ek9 have smaller brake booster when compared with dc2, maybe 1inch less in diameter.

wich booster its better to work on my ek4 with 282 wilwoods and 262 ek9.

Maybe pedal ratio for dc2 its smaller i dont know...

one friend of mine have dc2 brake booster with nsx calipers and rear ek9 and works fine
 
Marco said:
It seems that ek9 have smaller brake booster when compared with dc2, maybe 1inch less in diameter.

wich booster its better to work on my ek4 with 282 wilwoods and 262 ek9.

Maybe pedal ratio for dc2 its smaller i dont know...

one friend of mine have dc2 brake booster with nsx calipers and rear ek9 and works fine
Click to expand...

EK9 = 98spec DC2
EK4 = 96spec DC2

You need the biggest MC you can to feed those willwoods, the NSX ones are tiny in comparison.
 
Master cylinder its the same, 1inch piston, but the booster (that black thing) apears that ek9 have smaller booster than dc2 and i didnt know.

The biggest its nm290v wich is the same as my friends 98 dc2, the small its nm260v that is the same as ek9 as told me one guy in other topic but any ek9 owner can see this it helps me:bow:

As i have the two versions in home, tomorrow i will try install the biggest booster

2012-05-27%2014.59.41.jpg
 
If you've got over-powerful brakes the last thing you need is a bigger booster.
 
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