B20 Build


J

jmcc42uk

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Jan 1, 2011
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Hi guys,

Over the next few months my car will be having a B20 vtec installed. I've got a B18C6 atm.

I'm not an engine builder so I will not be doing the work myself, my aim here is just to understand exactly what parts will work best and why.
I'm not chasing any mad peak horsepower figures here but want to end up with a bit more up top and most importantly a big chunk of torque

The aim is to build a bombproof bottom end and run the standard B18C6 head with a port and polish and some ITB's. Cams are an option further down the line (hence the bottom end spec) but there will be no forced induction

I've got a few ideas of what I should be thinking of in terms of reliability

Lightened & balanced crank/flywheel/rotating assembly
ARP headstuds
ARP Rodbolts
ACL Bearings
84 - 85.5mm forged pistons
Eagle H-beam rods
Some sort of block guard/sleeved block


I am having a hard time choosing pistons and understanding compression ratio and why it is important in the build.

Will I have to sleeve the block if going above the standard 84mm of the B20?

As I said I am learning as I go so any input would be greatly appreciated

Thanks

Jon
 
I'd get someone reputable to build it. B20s have to be built right. Speak to DNR :)
 
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So who is building it? Surley they would know what parts and reasons for compression ratios etc?
 
It's probably going to be built at DNR or Eurospec.

The aim of the post is to get a bit more clued up on the options for pistons and building a strong bottom end.

Also to see what other people have built thier b20's with and to see what works well
 
jmcc42uk said:
Hi guys,

Over the next few months my car will be having a B20 vtec installed. I've got a B18C6 atm.

I'm not an engine builder so I will not be doing the work myself, my aim here is just to understand exactly what parts will work best and why.
I'm not chasing any mad peak horsepower figures here but want to end up with a bit more up top and most importantly a big chunk of torque

The aim is to build a bombproof bottom end and run the standard B18C6 head with a port and polish and some ITB's. Cams are an option further down the line (hence the bottom end spec) but there will be no forced induction

I've got a few ideas of what I should be thinking of in terms of reliability

Lightened & balanced crank/flywheel/rotating assembly
ARP headstuds
ARP Rodbolts
ACL Bearings
84 - 85.5mm forged pistons
Eagle H-beam rods
Some sort of block guard/sleeved block


I am having a hard time choosing pistons and understanding compression ratio and why it is important in the build.

Will I have to sleeve the block if going above the standard 84mm of the B20?

As I said I am learning as I go so any input would be greatly appreciated

Thanks

Jon
Click to expand...

it is possible to run 200whp on a stock bottom end, ive done it..

but if your gonna build it fair enough...

ive searched forums high and low about pistons, im running RS machined 84mm Itr replica pistons in my build, the compression works about 11.5+ but varies with head and gasket types.

you do not need to sleave if going over sized... although stock b20 sleaves are suppose to be weak(ive destroyed one b20 bottom end stock, rods snapped before cylinder walls gave way)
you said you wanted to build a bombproof bottom end, id recommend darton liners, if your worries lye there. im using stock sleaves and no block guard on my second build

it is not nesscery to run a block gaurd, they actually do nothing, golden eagle only make them cause people buy them, id rather spend the money on an endny block girdle instead, use arp mains with this.

personally i would have my builder size my bearings to suit, imo theres no point using a generic bearing as theres no telling what was taken off your crank while being machined.

also i would highly recommend using an endny breather kit as in b20s a build up of crank case pressure can cause premature failure of your motor.

arp rod bolts come with your eagle rods too.

you will also need a golden eagle b20 conversion kit, this is essentially a sandwich plate which routes an external oil line to your head(all plumbing included)
it also has a blanker which needs to be tapped into your head and conversion dowels to allow the head to meet the bottom end correctly.

also arp headstuds are a must
 
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More exact spec of the build - been advised to get a 3" exhaust system made too

B20b BLock (84,5mm)
Wiseco 11.5:1 pistons
Import builder con rods
B18 ITR head 15 thou skim
Street port and polish, stepped ex, matched in.
Custom DNR spec combustion chambers
Edelbrock victor x IM
STR 70mm TB
Toda C2 cams
Toda TI valve train
S2 flat faced valves (1mm over)
BDL cam gears
360cc denso injectors
Hondata S300
 
The victor X manifold will be too big.

It would be better if you went with the performer X. The victor is mainly for very high compression engines (over 12.5:1) or better yet, boost applications.

Get the head spot faced if you're going to go through all that trouble of putting so much work into the build.

Endyn girdle is also a necessity in my opinion.

Plenty of other cam choices these days. I seldom recommend Skunk2 but their relentless progress and devotion to the Bseries has outshone what Japan has been able to offer for nearly 10yrs.

Toda and others have stopped developing for the B long ago. This is NOT to say Toda or JUN are crap cams, they are still great, but I would certainly not pay the premium to buy them new....likewise with their valvetrain.

While you're at it, get the updated spring type lost motion assemblies.
 
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