best B series to turbo?


doh

doh

HONDA PINOY
Joined
Sep 17, 2008
Messages
139
hi guys,

i have an ej6 with stock d16y7 engine. and i am looking for an engine swap. which one will have the following:

a) highest HP
b) highest torque
c) best to turbo (around 7-14 psi)
d) best for n/a set up
e) longevity and reliability
f) most economical on building and maintaining

1st) straight b16a2?
2nd) straight b18c5 98+ spec?
3rd) b16a2 head and tranny plus b18a/b bottom?

just for daily driving and a bit of track. i just want a good rush at times on the streets and nothing really stupid

any comment and thoughts are appreciated! thanks to all!

"race the strip not the strip.."
 
Here are your answers, you may be surprised but understand you cant "have it all":

a) highest HP Does not matter, any B series vtec
b) highest torque B18c or B20vtec
c) best to turbo (around 7-14 psi) Too subjective to answer
d) best for n/a set up K20 type R, but also highly subjective
e) longevity and reliability based on use/abuse/maintenance/care
f) most economical on building and maintaining D16z6


1st) straight b16a2? This gets my vote, but also highly subjective
2nd) straight b18c5 98+ spec?
3rd) b16a2 head and tranny plus b18a/b bottom?
 
so should i go for

1) b16a2?
2) b18b +b16a2 head and tranny?
3) b18c5

that will all may lead to turbo in the future...
 
Well, how much power do you want and how much money would you like to spend?
 
Over here "US" For B-Series....The GS-R is the Best/Reliable "STOCK" Motor to turbo....The Jdm Motor Is from the Integra Sir-G I believe....B16's Lack the Torque !!
 
I agree with Blinx, if you're going turbo go for the B16a- , you'll save money over a B18C1 (gsr) and once you turbo it the displacement doesn't matter nearly as much.
 
blinx9900 said:
Wrong, VERY wrong.[/QUOT



Ur crazy turbo a b16 compared to a GS-R and you"ll be somewhere around 30-35ft/lb Easily less torque than a GS-R .......Sorry but there is no replacement for displacement. For an example Ls/vtec 89mm Crank VS. GS-R/Type-R 87mm crank with stock bore ......the Ls/vtec will ALMOST ALWAYS put down 15-20ft/lbs MORE TORQUE w/a good TUNER........PERIOD do your research..!
Click to expand...
 
i am thinking if i should go for b16a turbo route (if it is more power and cheaper a bit) or just just save up for b18c5 if it will give me more power at the end of the day. also reliability and longevity is what im thinking about between n/a vs turbo (some people say that it may cut your engine's life into half if you turbo boost too much, i am not sure if this statement is entirely true).

i do not have much budget.i will spend around $CAD3500 for b16a2 n/a (including install) and $CAD 5500 for b18c5 (with install). im thinking, if just go to turbo my b16 with the money i save if i do not go for the b18c, should i have more power at the end of the day? i just plan to go on stock boost like 7psi.turbonetics kits t3 maybe?it gets a bit complicated though if you want to do your turbo right.

i heard some people say that a to turbo a b16 is better than a b18c5.im not too sure about this statement. i guess thats why i am here, to ask.hehe.

thanks!
 
doh said:
i am thinking if i should go for b16a turbo route (if it is more power and cheaper a bit) or just just save up for b18c5 if it will give me more power at the end of the day. also reliability and longevity is what im thinking about between n/a vs turbo (some people say that it may cut your engine's life into half if you turbo boost too much, i am not sure if this statement is entirely true).

i do not have much budget.i will spend around $CAD3500 for b16a2 n/a (including install) and $CAD 5500 for b18c5 (with install). im thinking, if just go to turbo my b16 with the money i save if i do not go for the b18c, should i have more power at the end of the day? i just plan to go on stock boost like 7psi.turbonetics kits t3 maybe?it gets a bit complicated though if you want to do your turbo right.

i heard some people say that a to turbo a b16 is better than a b18c5.im not too sure about this statement. i guess thats why i am here, to ask.hehe.

thanks!
Click to expand...

The reason why they are saying to turbo the B16 over the B18-Type-R motor is probably due to compression.....the B16 is roughly 10.6....The B18-R is 11.1
...and the B16 is alot cheaper than the R....thats why is said to go with the B18-GS-R motor which also has 10.6 compression and is in the middle "price wise" between the B16 / B18-R ....I have had people make over 400+ WHP on STOCK GS-R's.........
 
highly possibly. i think i may go with b16a first and see what i get with the n/a setup then take from there.

fyi.i had a b16a2 on an eg hatch back in the day.i was pretty happy about it.

thanks man!
 
USDM01'DC2-R said:
Ur crazy turbo a b16 compared to a GS-R and you"ll be somewhere around 30-35ft/lb Easily less torque than a GS-R .......Sorry but there is no replacement for displacement. For an example Ls/vtec 89mm Crank VS. GS-R/Type-R 87mm crank with stock bore ......the Ls/vtec will ALMOST ALWAYS put down 15-20ft/lbs MORE TORQUE w/a good TUNER........PERIOD do your research..!
Click to expand...

First off calm down and watch who your talking too, for someone who can't seem to quote properly you sure have a lot of nerve.

Furthermore i never said that a GSR or LS/vtec will not make more torque than a b16a so your entire argument is more like a statement since nobody objected in the first place, perhaps reading before attacking is in order?

Please explain to me why you want so much torque, why is torque so valuable, what does it exactly do, how is it related to horsepower? If you can't answer these simple questions you have no right telling me to "do some research" My current car is on its third engine setup and its second turbo setup, I have been doing this little Honda thing for over 9 years, thats probably longer than you've had your drivers license.

What i did say is your wrong when you said B16 lacks the torque and YOU ARE WRONG when you say that, my car makes 260 lb ft of tq, it uses a b16 block and b16 crank, please tell me what is so "lacking" in that?

And FYI b16 Compression ratio is 10.2ish on the obd0's and 10.4 on the obd1 and obd2's. Perhaps you need to do some research?
 
Last edited:
so as you have read,i have a 98 ek hatch.
and i really wanna go turbo. i have been on a n/a b16a (on an eg hatch) and now i want to try turbo b16a. im a bit worried about the reliability,longevity and (i hope i can afford) affordability.

what parts do i begin with or rather what engine internals should i start with? 300whp would be nice but if not, a reliable 7psi boost is good enough for me,if gone to 14psi, why not.

any advice would be greatly appreciated.

thanks man and more power!
cheers!
 
blinx you are insanely intelligent! lol
sorry but he got dealt with! lol
 
blinx9900 said:
USDM01'DC2-R said:
Ur crazy turbo a b16 compared to a GS-R and you"ll be somewhere around 30-35ft/lb Easily less torque than a GS-R .......Sorry but there is no replacement for displacement. For an example Ls/vtec 89mm Crank VS. GS-R/Type-R 87mm crank with stock bore ......the Ls/vtec will ALMOST ALWAYS put down 15-20ft/lbs MORE TORQUE w/a good TUNER........PERIOD do your research..!
Click to expand...


First off calm down and watch who your talking too, for someone who can't seem to quote properly you sure have a lot of nerve.

Furthermore i never said that a GSR or LS/vtec will not make more torque than a b16a so your entire argument is more like a statement since nobody objected in the first place, perhaps reading before attacking is in order?

Please explain to me why you want so much torque, why is torque so valuable, what does it exactly do, how is it related to horsepower? If you can't answer these simple questions you have no right telling me to "do some research" My current car is on its third engine setup and its second turbo setup, I have been doing this little Honda thing for over 9 years, thats probably longer than you've had your drivers license.

What i did say is your wrong when you said B16 lacks the torque and YOU ARE WRONG when you say that, my car makes 260 lb ft of tq, it uses a b16 block and b16 crank, please tell me what is so "lacking" in that?

And FYI b16 Compression ratio is 10.2ish on the obd0's and 10.4 on the obd1 and obd2's. Perhaps you need to do some research?
Click to expand...



:clap: Owned?
 
blinx9900 said:
First off calm down and watch who your talking too, for someone who can't seem to quote properly you sure have a lot of nerve.

Furthermore i never said that a GSR or LS/vtec will not make more torque than a b16a so your entire argument is more like a statement since nobody objected in the first place, perhaps reading before attacking is in order?

Please explain to me why you want so much torque, why is torque so valuable, what does it exactly do, how is it related to horsepower? If you can't answer these simple questions you have no right telling me to "do some research" My current car is on its third engine setup and its second turbo setup, I have been doing this little Honda thing for over 9 years, thats probably longer than you've had your drivers license.

What i did say is your wrong when you said B16 lacks the torque and YOU ARE WRONG when you say that, my car makes 260 lb ft of tq, it uses a b16 block and b16 crank, please tell me what is so "lacking" in that?

And FYI b16 Compression ratio is 10.2ish on the obd0's and 10.4 on the obd1 and obd2's. Perhaps you need to do some research?
Click to expand...

LOL :nice:
 
doh said:
so as you have read,i have a 98 ek hatch.
and i really wanna go turbo. i have been on a n/a b16a (on an eg hatch) and now i want to try turbo b16a. im a bit worried about the reliability,longevity and (i hope i can afford) affordability.

what parts do i begin with or rather what engine internals should i start with? 300whp would be nice but if not, a reliable 7psi boost is good enough for me,if gone to 14psi, why not.

any advice would be greatly appreciated.

thanks man and more power!
cheers!
Click to expand...

300whp could be reliable, i am currently makeing 333whp and i am still using OEM Honda pistons but I have lowered compression a good bit which gives the engine a lot more room for error. What you can do is just add a thicker head gasket, ARP head Studs, Turbo kit, tune and depending on the turbo used about 10psi could land you right around 300whp and safely. Now i would not advise you go and run the Ring with a turbo and OEM pistons but i think its plenty safe for street use and occasionally agressive driving, while you are enjoying it you can find a blown b16 shortblock and build that with forged internals if you wish then if anything happens you can just swap it in and you'll be good for even more power :nice:
 
blinx9900 said:
300whp could be reliable, i am currently makeing 333whp and i am still using OEM Honda pistons but I have lowered compression a good bit which gives the engine a lot more room for error. What you can do is just add a thicker head gasket, ARP head Studs, Turbo kit, tune and depending on the turbo used about 10psi could land you right around 300whp and safely. Now i would not advise you go and run the Ring with a turbo and OEM pistons but i think its plenty safe for street use and occasionally agressive driving, while you are enjoying it you can find a blown b16 shortblock and build that with forged internals if you wish then if anything happens you can just swap it in and you'll be good for even more power :nice:
Click to expand...

-should i replace my piston rings with new oem ones before i turbo or can i get away without it?
-which thicker gasket should i get?which brand too?
-im thinking the turbonetics kit on ebay, is that good enough? this is what it says ...


* Kit Include:
o T3/T4 Turbonetics Hybrid Turbocharger
o Aluminum Intercooler piping ( direct fit )
o Godspeed Intercooler core
o High pressure silicone hose
o Cast Iron Turbo Manifold
o 2.25" Stainless Steel Down pipe
o Stainless Steel Connect Pipe
o Stainless Steel Dump Pipe
o Blow Off Valve (type-rs)
o 38mm wastegate (7psi spring )
o Steel Braided oil feed line, with rubber oil return line (complete kit)

Product Overview:

o Turbo Efficient to 375-400hp
o .50 Compressor A/R
o .63 Turbine A/R
o 3.0" Inlet / 2.0" Outlet
o Oil Cooled Shaft & Internals

Turbine Wheel Specs:

o Exducer Measures: 2.48"
o Mayor Measures: 2.89"

Compressor Wheel Specs:

o Exducer Measures: 2.07"
o Mayor Measures: 2.36"

also i just want to have a 2.5' full exhaust.
-do i have to buy new injectors,fuel pump and boost controller?
-should i buy an apexi neo and have the ecu tuned?or can i just have the ecu tuned (lower vtec perhaps too?)
sorry for so many questions, i am newbie on this one.thanks so much!
cheers!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top