DC2 ITR K24 Frankenstein Build (DYNO Result)
- Thread starter muiris
- Start date
Nathan Brooks
Heaveh foot
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2018
- Messages
- 223
- Car(s)
- JDM H22A Swap EK Civic
Love the ALU plate and the wrap you've done to it
muiris
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2009
- Messages
- 1,426
Thanks guys.
Waiting on a radiator & manifold at the moment so decided to use the time to restore the rear of the car.
It's quite nasty.
All the bushings in the lca & trailing arm were destroyed & the droplinks were hanging.
Even the braided brake lines were on their way out.
The replacements: Hardrace 25.4mm roll bar & Hardrace LCAs.
Got stuck into cleaning the chassis: Horrible messy job
Luckily the pockets & rails were solid.
Put Hardrace trailing arm bushings instead of the polybush that were in there
Gave the brakes a refresh including new bleed nipples & Goodridge lines.
Used EP3 adjustable droplinks to work with the DC2 lcas.
Looks fresh now & should last a few years.
Waiting on a radiator & manifold at the moment so decided to use the time to restore the rear of the car.
It's quite nasty.
All the bushings in the lca & trailing arm were destroyed & the droplinks were hanging.
Even the braided brake lines were on their way out.
The replacements: Hardrace 25.4mm roll bar & Hardrace LCAs.
Got stuck into cleaning the chassis: Horrible messy job
Luckily the pockets & rails were solid.
Put Hardrace trailing arm bushings instead of the polybush that were in there
Gave the brakes a refresh including new bleed nipples & Goodridge lines.
Used EP3 adjustable droplinks to work with the DC2 lcas.
Looks fresh now & should last a few years.
muiris
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2009
- Messages
- 1,426
Back to the K-series.
Some really good progress made but i did have a few issues.
First, i made a custom 3.5 inch aluminium CAI with velocity stack. Painted it wrinkle black. I've seen dyno comparisons that the 3.5 makes more power than the 3 inch, so worth a shot. Saved some money make it myself too.
While i was waiting for radiator, i made some heatshields. As i'm running a sandwich plate, the oil filter sticks out 30mm more than normal. This should help temps a bit.
As the powersteering rack was not designed to have a manifold so close, i put this together.
Also made this shield to keep the heat away from the shifter cables & other pipe work.
Manifold finally came. Tegiwa K swap mainfold, quality looks great.
Fitted fine. Still decent clearance on K24.
Radiator arrived & installed with no issue, again found the quality to be good. Mounted to exisiting mounts on DC2, no modifications needed. Also added aluminum coolant reservoir.
Now onto first start....
Car started then cut out immediately. Tried a few (many) times, same thing.
I'm not running an idle air control valve on this setup (something less to go wrong). Realised that there would be no bypass for the air on the TB. There's a small adjustment screw under the Skunk2, very awkward to get to. Adjusted this so the TB would be open a fraction. I also went online with ECU & disabled the IACV.
K24 started & ran.
Next up, the engine couldn't hold constant rpm/throttle. You could blip the throttle fine, idle fine etc but if you tried to hold the car at 2000rpm for example, it would cut & drop back to idle. So not driveable, as i found out.....
This was my blunder, i never calibrated the TPS. Through KPRO/PROECU-K, you go online, datalog & read the closed tb value. This should be 0.45 volts. You twist the TPS until it it reads this value. Then do WOT & press read for the throttle fully open. Upload the tune to the ECU.
Now it's fixed.
Now onto the most difficult task....bleeding the cooling system.
This took 5 attempts easily. System was badly airlocked. Lower hose stayed cold & temps were rising upwards. Had to leave things cool down & keep trying.
Few things got it sorted:
Few small things to tidy but all buttoned up for now:
Next up is exhaust system & a tune.
Some really good progress made but i did have a few issues.
First, i made a custom 3.5 inch aluminium CAI with velocity stack. Painted it wrinkle black. I've seen dyno comparisons that the 3.5 makes more power than the 3 inch, so worth a shot. Saved some money make it myself too.
While i was waiting for radiator, i made some heatshields. As i'm running a sandwich plate, the oil filter sticks out 30mm more than normal. This should help temps a bit.
As the powersteering rack was not designed to have a manifold so close, i put this together.
Also made this shield to keep the heat away from the shifter cables & other pipe work.
Manifold finally came. Tegiwa K swap mainfold, quality looks great.
Fitted fine. Still decent clearance on K24.
Radiator arrived & installed with no issue, again found the quality to be good. Mounted to exisiting mounts on DC2, no modifications needed. Also added aluminum coolant reservoir.
Now onto first start....
Car started then cut out immediately. Tried a few (many) times, same thing.
I'm not running an idle air control valve on this setup (something less to go wrong). Realised that there would be no bypass for the air on the TB. There's a small adjustment screw under the Skunk2, very awkward to get to. Adjusted this so the TB would be open a fraction. I also went online with ECU & disabled the IACV.
K24 started & ran.
Next up, the engine couldn't hold constant rpm/throttle. You could blip the throttle fine, idle fine etc but if you tried to hold the car at 2000rpm for example, it would cut & drop back to idle. So not driveable, as i found out.....
This was my blunder, i never calibrated the TPS. Through KPRO/PROECU-K, you go online, datalog & read the closed tb value. This should be 0.45 volts. You twist the TPS until it it reads this value. Then do WOT & press read for the throttle fully open. Upload the tune to the ECU.
Now it's fixed.
Now onto the most difficult task....bleeding the cooling system.
This took 5 attempts easily. System was badly airlocked. Lower hose stayed cold & temps were rising upwards. Had to leave things cool down & keep trying.
Few things got it sorted:
- Rise the front of the car as high as possible
- Use a coolant funnel
- Squeeze upper rad hose often.
- Pop off this hose circled below, i think this made the biggest difference. As soon as i did this, it made a drastic change.
Few small things to tidy but all buttoned up for now:
Next up is exhaust system & a tune.
muiris
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2009
- Messages
- 1,426
Just a query for anyone, i noticed at one point the fuel pressure jumped from 45PSI to 80PSI.
It should never do this.
I turned off the car, let it settle for a few min & restarted. It's back at 45psi & has been the same since.
FPR is brand new AEM unit. Using a return style system. Anyone have a faulty AEM unit before?
It should never do this.
I turned off the car, let it settle for a few min & restarted. It's back at 45psi & has been the same since.
FPR is brand new AEM unit. Using a return style system. Anyone have a faulty AEM unit before?
muiris
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2009
- Messages
- 1,426
Some good progress made since. Got the exhaust system made. The fabricator did a great job. It's very quiet & not droney. I had him make a decat section too so i can pass NCT (MOT) when needed. I believe the mufflers are Solidfabrication. Tuning is the next step.
Dcharles_Ek9
Active Member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2023
- Messages
- 57
- Car(s)
- 98 Civic Type R/96 Integra Type R DB8
Beautiful exhaust! Sure it sounds perfect.
muiris
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2009
- Messages
- 1,426
Well, the day finally came.
When i was speccing this engine originally, I was aiming to match the JDM gentleman's agreement of 276ps from Japans golden era.
The thought of a little Integra with a 4 cylinder matching the stock power of the FD RX7, NSX-R, GTR, EVO etc was a nice goal.
On the trailer to the dyno,
Strapped down
After a few hours of tuning:
Tuned by AP Performance, great job.
Goal achieved, I haven't got a chance to drive it properly yet, will get it booked for a trackday asap.
Numbers look very good considering this isn't a built engine & didn't take much effort to put it together (swapped the head, drop in cams & a K20 oil pump). 211 ftLb seems very strong also.
When i was speccing this engine originally, I was aiming to match the JDM gentleman's agreement of 276ps from Japans golden era.
The thought of a little Integra with a 4 cylinder matching the stock power of the FD RX7, NSX-R, GTR, EVO etc was a nice goal.
On the trailer to the dyno,
Strapped down
After a few hours of tuning:
Tuned by AP Performance, great job.
Goal achieved, I haven't got a chance to drive it properly yet, will get it booked for a trackday asap.
Numbers look very good considering this isn't a built engine & didn't take much effort to put it together (swapped the head, drop in cams & a K20 oil pump). 211 ftLb seems very strong also.
spikeyhairdude
Vishal
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2011
- Messages
- 1,405
- Car(s)
- EK9/E82
280 is decent. i reckon if i did cams on my k24 frank back when i was na, i would've had similar figures. I made 260. stock k20 head, rbc, stock k24 bottom end with k20 oil pump.