For the track racers out there

[webartie]

ok here it goes.
my car is a fully built track car. eg6, itr conversion which includes subframe,hubs arms everything. tyres are toyo r888's

the problem being is it is very hard to find set up specs, and everyone is so hush hush.

basicly i entered a few races and did ok ish.
but i never touched toe or castor settings

i ran -2.75 camber front and -1.5 rear.
the toe and castor are stock itr.

has any one got specs that work?
i know every car is different but i need starting point.

im thinking with toe out 3 degrees front
rear 2 out

also more castor by swapping upper arms around(yold it works and gives about 3-5 degrees positive castor)


any ideas would be great

thanks

 

[stevenEK9]

Swapping the upper arms will give a small amount of extra castor but not that much!

Whiteline do a kit which comes with longer bolts and washers (very cheap kit), basically you split the front lower arms and the spacers go in between so you can fine tune it to get it even on both sides of the car, about 4 degrees is meant to be pretty good, the casotr should help alot with turn in and give the steering more "feel"

I would be inclinded to run very little toe out on the front if you are running more castor, maybe 1mm out each side, but run a couple mm out each side on the back, will help the rear end come round well!!

i run some pretty agressive settings for road and i find the car to handle amazingly well...

-3.5 front camber
-2 rear camber
+1.5 castor each side via Eibach arms
0 toe front
3mm toe out per side on the back

Used to run about 2mm toe out each side on the front, was really good for turn in but the steering lacked a bit of feel as it was quite light, much nicer to drive with 0 toe

 

[DedeSIR]

To help find your own setup, you should buy a temperature
gauge for tires... that gives you 3 reading per tire.

That way you should be able to adjust properly the tire pressure
AND alignement for a particular track AND car.

If it's a clockwise or anticlockwise track etc...

So if you end up with a tire temperature from outside to inside of :
115 125 116 = too much tire pressure
125 118 114 = not enought camber etc...

Something like that : Accutech Deluxe Memory Tire Pyrometer

A bit $$$ but well worth it.

 

[webartie]

Swapping the upper arms will give a small amount of extra castor but not that much!

Whiteline do a kit which comes with longer bolts and washers (very cheap kit), basically you split the front lower arms and the spacers go in between so you can fine tune it to get it even on both sides of the car, about 4 degrees is meant to be pretty good, the casotr should help alot with turn in and give the steering more "feel"

I would be inclinded to run very little toe out on the front if you are running more castor, maybe 1mm out each side, but run a couple mm out each side on the back, will help the rear end come round well!!

i run some pretty agressive settings for road and i find the car to handle amazingly well...

-3.5 front camber
-2 rear camber
+1.5 castor each side via Eibach arms
0 toe front
3mm toe out per side on the back

Used to run about 2mm toe out each side on the front, was really good for turn in but the steering lacked a bit of feel as it was quite light, much nicer to drive with 0 toe

i wouldnt mind the feel as long as it goes around corners well, this is my problem so many different variations and my problem is i will get very little test time and cannot afford a rig to set it up each time so after each session i get one reset which is costly and very lengthly.

 

[iceman]

general consensus varies so much, what works for 1 setup wont work on next car due to different components and tyres etc

start at level and then experiment and try different settings to find best for you

monitoring tyre temps is more high level setup using above equipment and not available to many

also way out of budget for most not to mention youd need to get on track to do the testing to get the best which in reality is very unlikely to happen for most

 

[stevenEK9]

i wouldnt mind the feel as long as it goes around corners well, this is my problem so many different variations and my problem is i will get very little test time and cannot afford a rig to set it up each time so after each session i get one reset which is costly and very lengthly.

Learn to set up your suspension geometry yourself, it is very easy and can be very accurate if you take your time!!

Total cost of alignment tools for me was about £50 and it seems to work spot on, friend of mine sets up his car in a similar mannor and he's won multiple hill climb events in the past

PM me if you want details as it takes a while to write up

 

[haitch]

Everybody wants the car to handle well, but why such aggressive settings for the road? Thats a massive amount of front camber, do you notch it up even more on track?

 

[stevenEK9]

it may sound like alot of road but i can assure you it works amazingly! Is et it up like that as i can change it whenever so just testing some different settings, used to run a bit less camber on the front but with some toe out, steering was a bit light with not enough "feel", not been on track yet but hopefully next year

was out last night and at first it was pouring of rain and after that just very wet, gripped SO well, didn't break traction at all, the way you can turn into/accelerate through and out of corners is unreal

 

[imy!]

i run around -3 degrees camber on front and 2.5 degree on back and it handles well both road and track.

Once my new dampers arrive i'm looking to increase the front to at least -3.5 degrees as slicks need more camber as ur cornering speeds are higher hence more body etc etc.

Steven im also looking to get alignment equipment and do it my self as it saves money, but im guessing its gona take me a good few times to get used to it.

Knowing my luck its gonna end up taking me 6 hours lol.

Imy

 

[stevenEK9]

Pretty straight forwars once you've done it a few times! Did the tracking on the front of my dads FD2 in like 30 mins yesterday

getting the camber adjusted is a tad fidley though, especially the front!!!

oh and webartie, i'll get round to replying to your pm soon, just been very busy last few days with uni stuff (

 

[iceman]

ive decided im gonna buy kit so can do myself in future (cost of half dcent kit that has caster, toe and camber reading ability will cost about 1 or 2 times that of full aligment so pays for itself after used twice)

aligments cost a fortune and to most people including myself, getting it checked and adjusted if required every few months just isnt an option financially

just about every place will also charge you again once you go back for twaeks/readjustment if not happy after 1st setup, im in this predicament now so may as well learn myself

figures arent that important for majority of us for road and general track use, its about gettin car to handle/drive to your preferences and just making sure you do it correctly

problem now is that so many kits on the market so need to decide which 1 to get that is good compromise between cost, functionality and ease of use