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kasperwhoo

kasperwhoo

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Sep 17, 2009
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This is exactally what I want to do with my crank also I notice that this crank is an oem crank! What I was woundering is this machining to much or will the crank have to be a lightened something like 10lbs. And if so will I have problem stalling?
 
Wow, nice one. what is that going for?
I would assume this is like running a light weight flywheel, but just another 10more less pounds to get up or down in speed. Engine would respond like a motorcycle does...

correction, you ask about stalling, im sure you could get use to driving it. Easier to stall at the start, but again, should be able to learn after 5 minutes.

just be dam sure it was done right, and balanced.
 
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^ what he said plus this would work great with the whole stroker kit
 
...this would also make the engine a shorter life span engine as the harmonics would be much greater, i assume.
 
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This guy had the flywheel and n1 crank pulley machine (balanced) to meet the crankshaft! I think it is exacatly what was racing through my mine one night thinking of my build when I was looking at parts, also getting the pistons and rods blue printed aswell. If done right it should last longger cause of less stress on the components from a lower inertia rate also the capabilities to rev high and have throttle responce like a motorcycle.

If you did this set up to a B16B, that thing should rev to 11K as redline for a n/a build!
 
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oscarsayco said:
^ what he said plus this would work great with the whole stroker kit
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:secret:
I don't think that a OEM crank would be a stroker crankshaft you would have to buy an aftermarket crank with a big stroke to be a stroker like a 95mm stroke highly concidered stroker kit! You should do a little more reading before you write!
 
Lighter you go with the crank the snappier it will be on/off the throttle. For daily drive might not be so nice.
 
kasperwhoo said:
:secret:
I don't think that a OEM crank would be a stroker crankshaft you would have to buy an aftermarket crank with a big stroke to be a stroker like a 95mm stroke highly concidered stroker kit! You should do a little more reading before you write!
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...he may have been thinking about an oem itr crank.
 
so what is different on that crank then.... ??
i understand there will be less mass to rotate therefore making it easier to rev and faster responce...

I am not clued up when it comes to polished crankshafts.. Which bit has been polished or removed

sorry i'm a noob when it comes to cranks..
 
^^^knife edging the crank counter weights...or removing material from the counter weights of the crank in other words. Do a picture compare, its very clear the differences.

DSCF5494.jpg
 
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Ah i can see it now thanks mate.
the one pictured at the top i very knife edged then, thats had alot removed..
 
Topher-EK4 said:
Ah i can see it now thanks mate.
the one pictured at the top i very knife edged then, thats had alot removed..
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correct, the counter weights are being shaved, "knife edged", guess it looks more like a knife over a huge block weight. but the life of the engine would be decreased due to harmonics being off. But again this would be more for a race car setup as it would not be fun to drive like a normal car. Hair trigger response on acceleration and deceleration
 
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Knife edging is not just about weight, it is about aerodynamics too. At 8000rpm the edges of the crank can be travelling over 80mph, you can save a fair bit of drag by aero profiling the edges in the direction of travel.

I believe this may also carry benefits in terms of crank case pressure.
 
As above, plus 'cuts' through oil better too, less drag. I had a fully balanced and knife edged crank and bottom end in a mk1 golf, ans as already posted, you soon learn to drive them fine and therev stupidly quickly :D
 
I'd just leave the crank stock. The counter weights are the weight they are for a reason (and its not just for driveability). This was something i was looking into but now having doing a bit of reading on crank balance and harmonic's its put me off. From what i understand the problem gets even worse when you start adding heavier pistons and rods to.
 
Rich777 said:
I'd just leave the crank stock. The counter weights are the weight they are for a reason (and its not just for driveability). This was something i was looking into but now having doing a bit of reading on crank balance and harmonic's its put me off. From what i understand the problem gets even worse when you start adding heavier pistons and rods to.
Click to expand...

What about if you add lighter pistons and rods though? :blinx:

I agree with keeping the crank stock though. Unless you are chasing tenths of a second building a race motor with a limited life expectancy before rebuild then go ahead, if you expect it to last 50,000 miles on the road it is best left being balanced at the most.
 
From what i understand its a balancing act between the counter weights and the pistons & rods what helps keep some harmonics safe. So if the right amount was taken off then i guess it should be fine. Its something that i'm just touching up on at the moment so if someone can explain further then please do. Its quite a in depth topic and a lot of it is just going over my head lol.
 
Wow...this makes for a very interesting read :nice: I like the sounds of the response etc but I don't want to risk the longevity of my motor
 
There are so mnay car's making loads of power with standard cranks like kozy said, i can't see the need on a street car or even a track car.... Full on race car yeah maybe but surely you want longlivety with a race car also..
Understand the idea of the crank cutting through the oil better less drag and all that.. more info would be cool
 
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