Jesse888 Forged/stroker turbo ek9


Murray said:
Get a 3 inch DP and lum on there and unlock way more power at the same boost level.:nice:
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That is the next step. Going to use the car at this spec for this year then get the downpipe and housing(or just whack a bigger turbo on) next winter. Moving house has funds tide up abit.
 
What i meant was poor air flow at high rpm and ignition timing is why your fuel map drops off. but there's loads of variables like intercooler, head flow, manifold etc.
If your car doesn't make 400 then you have a serious problem!!!
 
MadM1ke87 said:
What i meant was poor air flow at high rpm and ignition timing is why your fuel map drops off. but there's loads of variables like intercooler, head flow, manifold etc.
If your car doesn't make 400 then you have a serious problem!!!
Click to expand...

Yeah i wanted to be conservative with the power quotes lol
Needs a dyno run really to see where we are at.
Completely stock head and valve train is another thing. Not sure what sort of pressure and rpm i can push on standard valvesprings?
 
Had another look, doesnt look as bad as i remember but im sure more will be revealed once 1.5bar is tuned.
 
So got the suspension all fitted up, just need to bleed the brakes as i was playing about with those aswell and then get the alignment done and its ready to go again!

Next the hotside intercooler pipework was a complete bodge job, plus i couldnt fit my new splitter brackets with the ghetto pipe on the car. I had a crushed up pipe (to clear exhaust) with joiners everywhere. Also the joiner straight off the turbo sat at a kink which cant be good for flow, nevermind the ovaled pipework lol
So i thought id have a go at making my own, bought some stainless steel 2.5" pipe/bends as i cant weld ally so this was the next best option. After afew hours messing about with the angles and getting it sitting exactly how i wanted it i ended up with this....


Now im aware my welds are never going to look amazing like a decent fabricators would but they arent going to break and i even made these badboys up to test for leaks.


Gfab boost leak test kit! The sharp edges on the valved cup is just because i didnt trim it to shape before welding it up.
So yeah the pipe held 2bar with no problems at all which is more than it will likely ever see on the car!
Heres how it fits on the car,(working backwards) tight around the front end


Then around and slightly down clearing the mounting point for the splitter and also leaving as much room for the exhaust as i could, hugging the radiator support bar/thing(dont know its proper name) then into the turbo at a cleaner angle than before so the 90degree joiner isnt kinked anymore.



So yeah im very pleased with the results considering ive never done this before, i feel confident enough to tackle making myself a 3" downpipe so that will be in a future update im sure. Saved myself a good few pennies on having a proper dude fab it for me.
 
Yeah im quite proud of it tbh lol
Simple things please simple minds aye!
Defo will get brands booked up soon, just got to pull my finger out and sort the wheel alignment!
 
Is that some sort of inline thermostat in your hand?
 
b16 mini said:
Is that some sort of inline thermostat in your hand?
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Yeah, foolishly i bought a non-thermostatic plate for my cooler and struggled to make temp on long journeys.
Its a mishimoto stat.
 
jesse888 said:
Yeah im quite proud of it tbh lol
Simple things please simple minds aye!
Defo will get brands booked up soon, just got to pull my finger out and sort the wheel alignment!
Click to expand...

We all know I have a simple mind!
 
Sit yourselves down for this one.....
Rare detailing/cleaning update! No im not feeling myself lol

People that have seen the car in person will know its abit of a munter, the last time i properly detailed this car was over 3 years ago(having just bought it). So you can imagine the state of the paintwork after 3 years of constant engine swaps, turbo swaps and trackdays without a proper clean... i say proper clean but i still used a sponge and fairy liquid lol
Followed that up with a solid going over with a chemical guys heavy duty clay bar, i was surprised just how much actual dirt i managed to pull off the paintwork with the claybar, before its just been small tricky bits on the clay but on this the clay lube went brown! I spent 2 afternoons going over the car with the clay and then moved onto the compound, used my trusty old DA from back when i liked having a clean car and bought some meguiars diamond cut coumpound. Ideally id have bought a rotary polisher instead but the DA did an okay job after 3passes on each panel, so that was another 2 afternoons on that.
I toyed with buying a polish but didnt bother in the end so went straight onto the new wax, chemical guys hardcore paste wax.


So heres the results of my labour...


Dont be deceived by the photos, the car is still abit of a munter with afew dents, scratches, stonechips etc. Its just a shiney munter now lol
I am very pleased with the results though. Looking at refurbishing the wheels, spoiler baseplate and the wiperarms just to help neaten it up abit. The front bumper really lets the car down now so that may be a job for later
 
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So this week.
Struggled for motivation tbh, the cars quite hard work to drive on the road. Its not really the type of car you can just drive about anymore.
So theres only one thing for it.....more boost!
Finally took the jump and tuned the car out to 1.5bar!(22psi) the most boost ive ever run in any car ive ever owned.
Very pleased with the pace of the car, probably a tiny bit more power in the tune to squeeze out but i am trying to be abit cautious with the stock sleeves for now.
The cars got alot of grunt! Cruise along at 60 in 5th, plant your foot and shes off! You think "yeah this pulls well" then it starts to pull harder and harder the more it revs, before you know it your at 8000rpm in 5th gear! Very happy with it tbh.
Desperately needs a 3" downpipe now! I think bar the downpipe ive pretty much maxed this turbo out, intake temps are on the rise at higher rpm and im having to work the wastegate solenoid hard at high rpm to maintain 1.5bar. This suggests i either have alot of exhaust mani pressure(downpipe not helping) or the turbo is being spun too fast and is losing efficiency (converting more energy into heat than into boost) Tbh thats probably come at the right time as im now into the territory where your not supposed to have standard sleeves anymore.

Im very happy with how far ive come, this time last year i started tuning EFI and this engine is still going, not only that, it has the same compression as when i started(suggesting ive not harmed the motor too badly whilst learning) and its making more power than it probably should be for the size of its spec-sheet.
Im aware that the engine is still abit of a time bomb making the power it does, im also aware im probably going to end up pushing it too far one day but until that day, im happy!
 
Long time without an update here so thought id catch everyone up.
First was a new customer/client had just bought a turbo ep3 and wanted it checked over and the launch control settings played with, so i did that and learnt afew bits about turbo k20s whilst i was there.
Plans for this guy is to run a return fuel line system and then come back so we can turn the boost up. Should see an easy 500 out of this thing!


Then @B16Swt came round and we tuned his car some more, ill let him update you guys as to how that went when he updates his thread.


Then my brother got a new version of schubandautoworks twinpass intercooler for his car, we still have a pressure drop from compressor to intake somewhere but weve worked around it for now to get him boosting atleast, more from that when we both get time to get out and tune it. Currently peaking at 0.8bar on that on what is really a basemap tbh, wont take us long to have that making proper power!
So the tuning is coming along ok, more cars getting tuned and making power, need to get them on a dyno really though.

Then it was my cars turn,
Bought a larger exhaust housing for it. Its a T31 0.82 A/R with a 3" vband exit welded on. Im hoping this will help it make power at high rpm and high boost instead of the fuel curve dropping off abit after 7500rpm. Visually its much larger than my current 0.63 housing and whilst im there ill replace the current 2.5" downpipe with a 3" version. I should pick up power here simply by less exhaust restriction but itll be interesting to see the effects no less. Im wondering what response is going to be like on the bigger housing, i always thought mine was pretty good but a larger housing should cost me in response alittle bit, perhaps the 3" downpipe will help me get abit of that back. Time will tell...


Next it was wheel alignment time! My cars not had a proper geo since before nurburgring 2015(when the camber bolts came loose) ive been Gfabbing it with strings for far too long.
I let the expert do his thing this time and after a short convo he got to the alignment. Ended up with these settings, which arent miles off settings ive had before(never had -3degrees on the front before) he said i need to get him tyre temp data on a trackday so we can further dial it in...


The camber settings even out abit more once im sat in the car but the basics are
Front
-3 camber and 0.06 toe out
Rear
-2camber and 0.10 toe in

The toe in on the rear is me being tight, thats how it ended up after the camber adjustment and its an extra 20 to change it, seen as ill be back with more data anyway i expect this may change again.
Toe out on the front - ive played with this before, the LSD didnt like it at all. I have a plan for it this time though, going to run a new gearbox oil mix and hope that tames the harshness of how the diff locks up. Again time will tell lol
Whilst we was there we got the scales out. Car weighs 983kg without me in it, not too bad. Realistic i guess...


Last but not least, my old sunstrip went when i had the windscreen changed(cracked) so i needed a new on.
I like the large sunstrip look so ended up with this.


And thats us up to date, track evening at brands booked up for the 23rd, full power will be used(weather permitting) so i expect to see a new PB from that.
 
New box oil arrived, aim was to go 50/50 mix with the mtf3 i have in the box currently. I ended up letting too much out though so its more lile 75% kazz to 25% mtf3.
Should defo take the edge off the diff though so we'll see how this works out
 
The turbo EP3 looks really cool - engine bay looks so snug must be difficult to work in.

Out of interest why would you mix gearbox oils? Why not just run one brand straight? Are they different viscosities?
 
Ive run just the mtf before, ive also used the kaaz oil before. Both send the diff to different extremes. I.e the kaaz oil basically stops it working imo but the mtf the diff is too crazy.
Im hoping a mix of both is going to land me in the middle, may work, may not.
Tbh ive no idea lol
 
Update time.
Took the car to brands, ran the car at 1.2bar for the first time on track. Pretty much instant PB lol

Heres that video

Needless to say thats ruined low boost for me forever, cant believe i left it this long before trying it tbh
Unfortunately the day wasnt trouble free though, the car would overheat after 1 hard lap so meant i had to spend 2 laps cooling it back down again, by this time the rear tyres where cold, as you can see lol

So investigations begin for that, first thing we noticed was a broken radiator mount on 1 side, allowing the rad to essentially "open" when any pressure is put on it. As you can see its then pressed against the turbo so im sure this wasnt helping from an airflow perspective.


I then stripped the thermostat out to check that, it opened just fine in the cup but ive not been happy with the quality of it anyway tbh. So ive swapped it out for a genuine honda one.
A friend of mine on facebook races in dutch timeattack and he mentioned drilling a small hole in the thermostat to avoid "thermal shock" i didnt even know this was a thing but im willing to give it a go anyway. Gates racing has a 28mm hole and the honda one has a 33mm hole so maybe that will help.


I then stripped the water pump off to check that, seemed fine so i put it back on.
Another thoery is how ive rerouted my water lines from removing the heater, i have it essentially looped, so recycling hot coolant out of the head and straight back into the thermostat housing amd then back into the pump.. sounds promising but why havent i had constant issues before now? Either way i got a mini heater to plumb back in, worst case its am extra cooler and best case it fixes the problem so win win really.


Ill also replace half the 50/50 mix coolant with water to bring that ratio down as water cools better than coolant mix does. Ive also got a bottle of "water wetter" to go in the system. Ive used this before and it does appear to work unbelievably so that'll help aswell.

I then came to check the engine over incase we have a more serious issue.
Compression test came up as strong as ever and i even bore scoped it too check for any bore damage or anything unusual that could point towards my problem.


Thankfully that was all clear so im pretty confident its not the engine causing the issue.
I then reset the valve clearances whilst it was all apart.

This leaves us up to date. Waiting on some radiator hose to finish plumbing the heater in and then ill book another trackday and hope ive fixed it lol
 
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