N/A B16A Buildup


B16A

B16A

Ek4 SiR
Joined
Dec 6, 2008
Messages
21
Hello everyone, i am new here and would like your opinion/suggestion for my NA B16A buildup.

First, let me tell u that i am from Bangladesh and there are no knowledgeable mechanic in BD. so most of the stuff we do are on trial-and-error basis and from what we read in forums like these. Also, we don't have honda engines available here so a swap/Frankenstein setup is not possible. gotta do with what resource i have here :(

My car is a 1996 JDM EK4 Civic SiR with B16A5 motor. the car was auto tranny and was later converted to manual with a Y21 hydro tranny from a 92 integra. i am running an Apexi Power FC ecu for the B16B.

Now i am in the process of rebuilding my motor. here is what i am planning:

in 1st phase, i am doing the block only. getting eagle forged crank and conrods, Mahle 11.3:1 CR forged pistons, ACL race bearings

in 2nd phase, i am going for the valvetrain, with Brian Crower stage 3 NA cams, valves, springs, titanium retainers.

already have DC Sports Ceramic headers, 4-2-1

what do u guys think? any suggestions would be highly appreciated:please:
 
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I have never heard of the automatic JDM SiR ek4. Can you post up few pictures mate, just to feed my curiosity :))
 
you can read about it in wikipedia: Honda B engine - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

some pics of my ride:
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i think it is by some chinese/taiwanese company. cost me about $75 for those metal gear-type rings. put the gauge faces on the cluster before installing the rings. then replaced the bezel with the aftermarket bezel that holds the 2 gauges
 
hello bro....
this is my suggestion for your setup.
1. maintain to using B16a conrod.
2. replace ur piston to 86mm piston (high compression type)
3. re-sleeve ur block,install extra block guard.
4. using 87 or 89mm crankshaft.
5. highlift cam & valvetrain.(ensure that the compression is enough base of ur cam chosen.)
6. get a aftermarket adjustable campulley.
7. change ur final drive to 4.785 or 4.9 to get better acceleration.
8. PnP head.
already proven on dyno machine with the setup. 225whp.

most the important things is ART of TUNING.
 
thanks mattop_speed. finally someone responds to my questions.

well, i have already ordered the crank and conrod from eagle. they are standard sizes. the Mahle pistons are also already ordered. 11.3CR and this time i need 81.25 bore atleast. the reason i didnt go to 84 or 86 is, as i mentioned in my first post, we dont have honda engines lying around in the junkyard in my country, so i need to protect my block for the future.

the other disadvantage we have here is that there is no tuning shop. everything we do, we do it on our own. good thing is, only recently we have a dyno set up here which is the first. so i can tune the settings and my ECU on the dyno. already have adjustable camgears. i already bought a 4.785 final gear kit, but it didnt fit in my Y21 hydro tranny - dont know why
 
B16A said:
well, i have already ordered the crank and conrod from eagle. they are standard sizes.
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That seems like a horrendous waste of money for an NA engine, the stock stuff will do just fine if you are sticking to the stock sizes!

Money would have been better spend on the pistons, (again, forged, not really necessary in an NA) decent cams and some throttle bodies, just in my opinion of course.
 
Take out all that "stuff" and you will go faster and look better too.
________
Eriz
 
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Kozy said:
That seems like a horrendous waste of money for an NA engine, the stock stuff will do just fine if you are sticking to the stock sizes!

Money would have been better spend on the pistons, (again, forged, not really necessary in an NA) decent cams and some throttle bodies, just in my opinion of course.
Click to expand...

i needed crank cause my engine ceased. and i got it on sale for $250. later on (after 2 yrs) i plan to go turbo then this will come in handy

lastly, as i said, there is no tuner here in my country and everything has to be imported from abroad, thats y i am posting here so that you people with experience and knowledge can help and guide me.

due to money constraints, i am doing it in steps. first was the block as i said the engine ceased and the crank and one rod was damaged.next phase is the head with the entire valvetrain from Brian Crower. Then i am adding intake plenum with 65mm throttle body an an AEM CAI
 
EK4_SIR said:
Take out all that "stuff" and you will go faster and look better too.
Click to expand...

bro, care to explain how or why? is it so wrong to add a body kit to the car? this is made of FRP so there is no weight issue here. the rims are ultra lightweight, so even lighter than the oem 15s. and as for the gauges, i have water temp, oil temp, oil pressure and the Wideband AFR, and the AFC neo....which one of them making the car go slower?

please dont take it otherwise, but where u r living, u guys can take your car to a shop and just pay them to do whatever u need to be done. here we gotta to everything by ourselves, with close to zero parts availability and zero technical know-how from the mechanics - i dont think a little compassion for the fellow performance enthusiasts from a 3rd world country is too much to ask. maybe it was my mistake to even post in this forum
 
B16A said:
bro, care to explain how or why? is it so wrong to add a body kit to the car? this is made of FRP so there is no weight issue here. the rims are ultra lightweight, so even lighter than the oem 15s. and as for the gauges, i have water temp, oil temp, oil pressure and the Wideband AFR, and the AFC neo....which one of them making the car go slower?

please dont take it otherwise, but where u r living, u guys can take your car to a shop and just pay them to do whatever u need to be done. here we gotta to everything by ourselves, with close to zero parts availability and zero technical know-how from the mechanics - i dont think a little compassion for the fellow performance enthusiasts from a 3rd world country is too much to ask. maybe it was my mistake to even post in this forum
Click to expand...

I cant help you too much as I am not an expert but good luck! But the above reply to that "below the belt" post is excellent! keep posting in this forum and people will help! cheers:)
 
Just keep making your questions. Most of the information that I used to build my car I got here. Good luck for you.
 
Well, I repect the fact you are where you are, from the list of items you are going to use to upgrade I assume you are buying from overseas. The list is also serious.
If anything, stay away from the Taiwanese things - less of these - save the money and buy some quality stuff but fewer.

I had no problems having people such as Bisimoto send me stuff - quality stuff..

Suspension is one thing you should seriously look into too - safety and handling. From the looks of things your car is very high up front.

Body kit - note the serious JDM style body kits are mild, not so "outrageous" if I can say that. Aerodynamics most probably not been considered and when going at high speed you want to be low and sleek as possible - we are 1.6 NA after all.

Dials and meters - nothing to slow you down but at least accurate, invest in some quality items if you have not already.

Wheels - again - stay away from Taiwanese copies for your own safety sake, I had a few crack and warp on me from even the mildest pot holes. Get some sent over.

Maybe I have seen to many "ricer" videos - look it up on youtube, again this is all up to your personal taste and culture.

Good luck to your project.
________
HEAD SHOP
 
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thanks for understanding bro. Yes, EVRYTHING needs to be imported. I get most stuff from Japan and USA and have to pay huge amount in freight and also about 40%-75% in import duty.

I already have Tein Superstreet coilovers installed on my ride now. this is how the ride height is now:
26177_377841488802_500398802_3936657_151219_n.jpg
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The bodykits i bought locally which are replica of some brand made in thailand. it was available here in Bangladesh so i bought from here as it is outrageously expensive to ship bodykits because of the size.

The meters are Taiwanese brand, racetech, and they are fairly accurate.

Wheels are of a Thai brand called Lenso. They are pretty good and ships to many different countries including the US. Check out http://www.lensowheels.com Have these on for over 2 years now, went through lot of potholes (and there are a lot over here) and still as good as new!

As for the "ricer" part, yes bro, i know what ricer means. Its all show and no go. Check out my vdo:
YouTube - SiR 0-180kmph
This is before i installed the Apexi PowerFC ECU, DC-Sports 4-2-1 headers and Exedy Stage 2 clutch kit
 
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already bought a 4.785 final gear kit, but it didnt fit in my Y21 hydro tranny - dont know why

4.785 kit from ITR?

u send ur final drive to machine shop to drill the hole or find type-r LSD to match it...
 
yes, it was from ITR (P80). the problem was the differential ring gear was brushing against the housing. maybe i needed the P80 differential also.
 
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