Need some advise on set up


stevenEK9 said:
On track -2.5 up front was PERFECT, when i was coming into the pits every 6 laps or so i felt the front tyres and was getting nice and even heat distribution across them. no problems with loss of traction during acceleration/deceleration also every when the track was greasy. These settings i run all the time and they work great on road too :)

I dislike how people "think" something isn't right, or it's "too much" in this case because of what they have heard or read, i have tried it and i know it actually works (not having a go at you, just too many people give opinions online based on what they have read, i give my opinion on here about what i have tried and tested)
Click to expand...

No i understand i always try and make it clear when i explain something if its from experience or word of mouth.

Very interesting stuff though! Shows how little i know about handling. I'm getting it booked in friday to have the set up fettled again. So going for -2 up front and -1 rear or something like that. What spring rate are on your coilys? Do you think there is anything else i need to do with my setup? I'm a lil bit sceptical as to wether the camber change will really effect the body roll... I always find when cornering hard it is as if the back end just keeps compressing the harder you push and its like the front is quite stable but the back isn't... If that makes sense. :nice:

One question i have got is how do you find the weight of the steering with that camber is it quite light and flighty? Like does it tram line alot?
 
Well i run 205/50 tyres so have a wider contact patch, did this purposely so i could run camber without loosing traction during braking especially as the spoons are a bit wild. with the wider tyres and the camber etc the steering isnt overly light, still maintains alot of feel

If you can get away with it try -.5 rear and -2 front camber wise, i can only run -1 as the 205 tyres come very very close to the arch lip, any less camber and it would rub :((

My buddy club coilovers are 12k front and 8k rear, i run a bit more preload on the rear springs than front though. as in if i jack up the car the rear suspension only sags about 10mm most where the front sags a good 30mm. less preload on the front helps maintain traction if you hit bumps hard through corners, more preload on the back helps stiffen it up a tad, doesn't matter so much if you break traction on the rear tbh.....

check the picture below too, i run the car height wise so there is equal arch to ground gap all round, means side on the car may look a touch lower on the back, done this as i did used to have the front raked down a bit but felt the back was pitching alot through corners and did feel alot of give almost, after driving my dads FD2 i prefered the rear end on that which feels very flat and planted so i adjusted the height on mine accordingly and it feels perfect now

D_0013.jpg


I wouldn't say there is much else needed with your setup, just try and work with what you have and fine tune it, i think that the preload on the springs and the alignment is what is needing looked at mostly

If you are still not happy maybe consider the wheels, ek9 standard wheels are very high offset and onlt 6" wide, with the wheels being tucked in like this it makes the car feel very pointy and chuckable which is good for most driving, a mate of mine has a fully track prepped DC2 and for hillclimbs he has higher offset wheels, but for track use he went for the lowest offset of slips he could get away with without fouling the arches, the wider track with the slips makes the car feel much more planted and stable on track
 
Last edited:
stevenEK9 said:
My buddy club coilovers are 12k front and 8k rear, i run a bit more preload on the rear springs than front though. as in if i jack up the car the rear suspension only sags about 10mm most where the front sags a good 30mm. less preload on the front helps maintain traction if you hit bumps hard through corners, more preload on the back helps stiffen it up a tad, doesn't matter so much if you break traction on the rear tbh.....

check the picture below too, i run the car height wise so there is equal arch to ground gap all round, means side on the car may look a touch lower on the back, done this as i did used to have the front raked down a bit but felt the back was pitching alot through corners and did feel alot of give almost, after driving my dads FD2 i prefered the rear end on that which feels very flat and planted so i adjusted the height on mine accordingly and it feels perfect now

I wouldn't say there is much else needed with your setup, just try and work with what you have and fine tune it, i think that the preload on the springs and the alignment is what is needing looked at mostly
Click to expand...


Interesting see i'm not running ANY preload on mine it said on the D2's not to adjust it at all... I though that was odd... They are short straight springs so maybe not needed...

My car height wise is very very similar to yours and when flat sit level all round.

Its and absolute mind field handling....

Motorbikes are easier! Most performance mags have done set ups for fast road and track. Piece of piss!!! Just adjust it according... :clap:
 
Preload is good if your only using the car on the track, but on the road you have less travel and the springs are trying to push themselves through the top mounts.

I would try some stiffer springs, and correct the camber.
 
gtikurt said:
Preload is good if your only using the car on the track, but on the road you have less travel and the springs are trying to push themselves through the top mounts.

I would try some stiffer springs, and correct the camber.
Click to expand...

Thank you. I think that is my plan of action. Going to order some springs tuesday. in 10kg/mm and then get the camber adjusted to be -2F and -1R.
 
Preload is good on progressive springs, on lenear springs your going nowhere! But in fact understeer is your enemy but people still want that creasy flashy bling bling coilovers to be a wanabe japanese racer.....check out the tire dimention combination on these cars...

Think on that, most damper ajustabel shocks even konis are not lenear on shock rebound...so you end up with you D2 to have at least 6 cliks from the hardest and 6 cliks from the softest with almost no change in rebound pressure!

The key there is to find a neutral state for your car, body flex is not an issue on your car but mabe you transfered some of it to the busches...is true that PU is not good for every bushing but some is quit good and durabel...be awear that is not going to last even half as OEM...you can other wise choose a vulcanize type ruber like PIC, Hardrace!

And try some suspention set-ups of other people if you can, maybe you will consider other things then D2 stuff...

Is my opinion based on my tests and researchs!
 
Last edited:
I have spoken to Tom at TGM today and explained my issues and he thinks that running the 10kg/mm rear will be absolutly fine and that i should definitly set my camber up as either -2 to -1.5 front and no more than -1 on the rear.

Top bloke can't thank him enough for spending the time to talk to me and sharing his knowledge with me.

So i will be sorting this out asap and i will update with the result.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top